Rear Camber Kits
Why besides SRR? SRR = King = SPC (www.spcperformance.com)
The rear kits that all 3 of them have are the same design, similar meterials and one of the easiest kits to use.
The rear kits that all 3 of them have are the same design, similar meterials and one of the easiest kits to use.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by len »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can use cheap washers.
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Assuming you don't want MORE negative camber. Then you have to buy the EXSPENSIVE negative space washers
</TD></TR></TABLE>Assuming you don't want MORE negative camber. Then you have to buy the EXSPENSIVE negative space washers
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Asahi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why besides SRR? SRR = King = SPC (www.spcperformance.com)
The rear kits that all 3 of them have are the same design, similar meterials and one of the easiest kits to use.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm actually having trouble finding (and so is Mike at IPS) an SRR kit...
The rear kits that all 3 of them have are the same design, similar meterials and one of the easiest kits to use.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm actually having trouble finding (and so is Mike at IPS) an SRR kit...
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flux »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm actually having trouble finding (and so is Mike at IPS) an SRR kit...
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I contacted SRR directly and got one within 2 weeks fo sending them the first email. Fill out the form on their site, and they will contact you. Nice guys but very FOB.
I'm actually having trouble finding (and so is Mike at IPS) an SRR kit...
</TD></TR></TABLE>I contacted SRR directly and got one within 2 weeks fo sending them the first email. Fill out the form on their site, and they will contact you. Nice guys but very FOB.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Asahi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I contacted SRR directly and got one within 2 weeks fo sending them the first email. Fill out the form on their site, and they will contact you. Nice guys but very FOB.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I tried that but have heard nothing from them. I'll try again...
I contacted SRR directly and got one within 2 weeks fo sending them the first email. Fill out the form on their site, and they will contact you. Nice guys but very FOB.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I tried that but have heard nothing from them. I'll try again...
i used 2 washers ber bolt , for a total of 4 per side on the back , its the "racer " way of doing it hahah , cost my like 10 bucks , works perfict . . .
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jason bouchard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i used 2 washers ber bolt , for a total of 4 per side on the back , its the "racer " way of doing it hahah , cost my like 10 bucks , works perfict . . .
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So what is your camber set at now? And what was it before?
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So what is your camber set at now? And what was it before?
I forgot more about hondas then you will ever know....
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 5,310
Likes: 1
From: hop,skip, and a jump from the city,, new friggin york, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Renegade »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why not just use the Ingalls Camber kits? </TD></TR></TABLE>
i wholeheartedly agree. i have broken many of the camber kits on the market, and ingalls rear, although squeaky, has stood up to the abuse. i have come to the conclusion i have to lube them every so often, and they are fine.
i wholeheartedly agree. i have broken many of the camber kits on the market, and ingalls rear, although squeaky, has stood up to the abuse. i have come to the conclusion i have to lube them every so often, and they are fine.
I forgot more about hondas then you will ever know....
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 5,310
Likes: 1
From: hop,skip, and a jump from the city,, new friggin york, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecvoodoo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use the SPC Kit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
although i have never held on ein my hand, the spc looks awfully like ingalls. maybe spc makes them for ingalls or the other way around?
although i have never held on ein my hand, the spc looks awfully like ingalls. maybe spc makes them for ingalls or the other way around?
I had the front ones in for well over 2 years and only lubed them once and they never squeaked again. I just upgraded to the Skunk 2 for ease of adjustment. I intalled the rear ones yesterday so I don't have any experience with those yet. I don't know what the price difference is, but the SPCs seem flashier, I guess they may be good for some bling, bling points.
I forgot more about hondas then you will ever know....
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 5,310
Likes: 1
From: hop,skip, and a jump from the city,, new friggin york, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Renegade »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had the front ones in for well over 2 years and only lubed them once and they never squeaked again. </TD></TR></TABLE>
sorry, i was referring to ingalls rear, as i run the skunk arms (modded to not slip) in the front as well.
sorry, i was referring to ingalls rear, as i run the skunk arms (modded to not slip) in the front as well.
I forgot more about hondas then you will ever know....
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 5,310
Likes: 1
From: hop,skip, and a jump from the city,, new friggin york, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Renegade »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how did you mod the front skunks to not slip? I may want to do the same.</TD></TR></TABLE>
simple, get an alignment, then WELD the balljoint in place....( EDIT: i am joking about welding the ball joint, please do not do this
) seriously though, i replace the bolts with grade 10.9 hex head bolts, star washers and a generous helping of loc-tite. also, every time the front wheels come off (just about every weekend) i double check that they are tight, and so far, in the last year i have had no slippage.
Modified by rodney at 7:27 AM 5/13/2003
simple, get an alignment, then WELD the balljoint in place....( EDIT: i am joking about welding the ball joint, please do not do this
) seriously though, i replace the bolts with grade 10.9 hex head bolts, star washers and a generous helping of loc-tite. also, every time the front wheels come off (just about every weekend) i double check that they are tight, and so far, in the last year i have had no slippage.
Modified by rodney at 7:27 AM 5/13/2003
http://www.ingallseng.com/cars/acura.html they have all the info here.
Rodney - Weld the balljoint, I see the locktite and bigger bolts, but won't the welding interfere with movement. I have not looked at it close enough so this is my guess, I know I can be ver wrong.
Rodney - Weld the balljoint, I see the locktite and bigger bolts, but won't the welding interfere with movement. I have not looked at it close enough so this is my guess, I know I can be ver wrong.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Asahi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why besides SRR? SRR = King = SPC (www.spcperformance.com)
The rear kits that all 3 of them have are the same design, similar meterials and one of the easiest kits to use.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actualy, the King rear camber kit uses heim joints as opposed to bushings on the other two models. The quality is second to none, price is just as high too
The rear kits that all 3 of them have are the same design, similar meterials and one of the easiest kits to use.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actualy, the King rear camber kit uses heim joints as opposed to bushings on the other two models. The quality is second to none, price is just as high too



