I want to do a B18C build-up, and was just wondering if an overbored, high-compression (as high as possible on pump gas), ported and polished, bolt on up the wazoo, cammed, chipped, and balanced engine is really worth my time and money... Basically, I know this is going to be prohibitively spendy. That's okay. I'm a patient guy. For some reason, I just feel like all-motor is more "right" for a Honda engine. I realize I'm never gonna reach the lofty heights of FI, but can I expect at least a competitive hp number?

 

I like my all motor car. Very reliable and you don`t have to tinker with it everyday. Just feels like a Honda w/ a v8. If it`s a daily driver, just don`t go too extreme.

 

they say if u want a dependable car..keep it stock..the further u go up the power curve..whether all motor or FI the maintenace cost will also rise as well a possible glitch s in ur system..just my .02

 

If need be, I have a big ole GMC Sonoma to use and abuse however I see fit. I plan on keeping it -basically- streetable. Just think of one of those cammed, lopey Camaros with the 3 inch duals and a subsonic rumble that makes the most bumpin stunna sub sound like a purring kitten in comparison. Now, transform that into a Honda (well, minus the duals, of course).

 

my car is all motor. but its build to still be reliable. for example. stage 2 cams, CTR pistons. i think you get more RESPECT if you go All Motor. but, its going to be the cost that hurts depending if you make good money or not.

 

I've always preferred N/A set ups for myself. A lot of my friends have gone turbo before, but it's just not for me, they seem to have problem after problem. You can find reliability going either way, and turbo set ups make more power period, but for me, I'll stick w/the natural way.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rodrez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've always preferred N/A set ups for myself. A lot of my friends have gone turbo before, but it's just not for me, they seem to have problem after problem. You can find reliability going either way, and turbo set ups make more power period, but for me, I'll stick w/the natural way. </TD></TR></TABLE>

true dat.. all my friends who had turbo's always had probs, and were always worrying about blowing thier turbo's.. N/A all the way if you like no worries

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deepnite &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they say if u want a dependable car..keep it stock..</TD></TR></TABLE>My motor is N/A... and bone stock...120k miles and runs strong 1.6L and runs close to 15 flat. Im a big fan of stock motors, when my motors dies I'll get a stock ITR motor

 

if you have to ask, just got and get nawz

i like allmotor cars personally

 

I'll be going all motor when I do my swap.. don't wanna mess with the quirks that may arise from F/I..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM EK9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you have to ask, just got and get nawz

i like allmotor cars personally </TD></TR></TABLE>

im not sure exactly what you said there, but "nawz" is a form of forced induction. therefore if you have that on a "all motor" car your car really isn't allmotor. i personally like turbo cause you can run with pretty much no hp gain and have great reliability and when its time to race, turn a **** and you got power. if your really fast turbo you will get more respect than a sorta fast na.

 

I found that doing a mild all motor setup is more cost affective then a turbo system. Think about it, ctr pistons, nice cams, port and polish, valvetrain, and other bolt ons come in the area of around 2k. This setup, in a hatch is good for 12's with slicks. Very nice daily driver. However, turbo's need the original kit (2K itself), and then you build the motor for forced induction. NA only gets more expensive when you start going to a very wild setup.
I'm putting together a turbo kit right now, my good buddy is building a mild fully built all motor setup. So we shall see how it goes when we both get running. My opionion, as well as many other in the forced induction is that tuning is everything. Turbo can be reliable, just precautions need to be made. My reasons for future turbo plans: love the look, love the sound, and love the way you can lower your psi so you don't consistantly day after day put so much on your motor. but ALL motor is definately worth it.

 

I like all motor. It just is funner. Sounds really good too!

 

All motor = bread. But still, I keep pushing on. If you know your ****, you can make an all motor car fast for decently cheap. Research research research.

 

I don't like if when people say, " You get more props with all motor cars"
screw props, fast is fast, just whatever gets you there... except a bone stock motor and nitrous.

 

all motor is sooooo dope. big cams sound sooo good , and it is really reliable. I got jun 3's and 12.1.1 comp run perfect on 91. trust me it is dope as hell revving to 10 and beyond all day long.Pm me if you got any questions

 

I'm down with building an awesome all-motor, and when its just right, slap on a turbo!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Marauder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm down with building an awesome all-motor, and when its just right, slap on a turbo!

</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah build an awesome high compression all motor car, then turbo it, then watch it blow!

 

All motor equals reliability. Yeah I am sticking with all motor and the bottle on occasion.

Turbo set-ups at the elevation I'm at works out real well. However once you start pushing past 8 or 9 psi things can happen...

 

i think you should make your decision based soley on your driving style and not on reliability. any high output motor will have reliability issues... you will be adding alot of weight with a turbo system that will affect you handling, as will turbo lag, it can be very unpredictable. as said before 12's are very achievable NA, and 12's will beat almost any car on the raod, plus it is predictable and rips around the corners with a good supension and lsd. but if you are really interested in that 11 second, fast as hell straightline performer(drag car), then get a turbo. i am more interested in an all around well rounded, nimble car, so i am sticking NA.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RangerDan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All motor equals reliability. Yeah I am sticking with all motor and the bottle on occasion.

Turbo set-ups at the elevation I'm at works out real well. However once you start pushing past 8 or 9 psi things can happen...</TD></TR></TABLE>

ya you make people jealous. lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RangerDan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All motor equals reliability. Yeah I am sticking with all motor and the bottle on occasion.

Turbo set-ups at the elevation I'm at works out real well. However once you start pushing past 8 or 9 psi things can happen...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Also, keep in mind, that to make a really strong all motor set up, you'll need to rev it pretty high, and the higher you rev, the more wear you put on your motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tek_civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ya you make people jealous. lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

no,no,no....lol Im like you my man 4860 feet. Make a fast car here and you got yourself a REAL fast car.

 

its all worth it dude, i have EK 4door with B16A2 engine and mild mods like ITR headers, air intake and straight thru pipe exhaust w/tatanium muffler. i use my car everyday and sometimes during weekend i race it on track (circuit race) people respect it because no turbo or nos i can catch up wid turbo power cars.

 

Well, reliability is one of my chief concerns... I don't believe in cutting corners. I plan on having double springs, titanium retainers, high-quality valves, forged pistons, balanced rotating assembly, and a sleeved block. I say, if you are going to do something, do it right the first time.