I've come upon a '98 Integra LS, and I'm wondering what I should do to get started with this car in terms of go-fast parts. Are there any good low-dollar getting started mods with this car? I'd eventually like to go to some sort of forced induction or a motor swap on it, but for now i'd like to stay with the cheap and dirty mods, and move on from there.

What are considered the best things to get started on on this car?

thanks

-s

 

go with an itr sway bar with bsq or beaks reinforcement, springs and shocks, wheels, and then turbo. or just save up and go turbo to begin with. if you want fi down the road, sc really isn't worth it so turbo will be the only really way to go and thus there really isn't a reason to spend your money now on bolt ons when those will just get tossed when the turbo goes in. you just need to know what you want the car in terms of performance, turbo car or perhaps swap a b20/vtec ...

 

Ls are low compression and torqy and a a perfect setup for Turbo's in the integra line.

 

Yeah, they'r pretty quick without turbos sometimes too....

Right Chris?

 

To answer your question Sashae I would follow the route a few of us have taken to the low 15's...

-Good header (Airmass, DC Sports, JDM 4-1)
-Stock Type-R Intake
-Apex'i N1, 5 zigen fireball or Tanabe Racing Medalion exhaust
-Fuel pressure regulator
-Crower Camshafts

Lemme know how your project goes!

 

i disagree with a lot of this.

the stock ITR intake SUCKS. get like an injen or iceman, or aem allt he same.

airmass headers suck, dc is so so, jdm itr would be nice.

just get a custom exhaust, cheaper, and just as good. exhaust adds like 1 hp anyway.

fpr? you dont need this unless you are running like low 14s... no need at this stage in the game.

crower cam shafts sound good, but how about valvetrain and gears to tune with?

Good Luck

-Sam

 

97lsintegra is on the right track here.

you need to start off with a cold air intake, AEM or INJEN.
and for handling you should put in an ITR swaybar from A&H and a BSQ mounting kit.

both of those mods made the biggest difference in how the car felt for me.
next is the money mods----->
new tires in 205/50r15... get ones that GRIP.
new springs, Prokits are swell....--->decide if you want to spend money on camber kits (have to with bigger drops) and shocks too.
new exhaust, but you may be happy with just the CAI.

well, hows them apples for ya?

 

everyone is definatly on the right track but there are few things i have yet to hear. First off, depending on where you purchased the car from, it probably needs a few tune up things. Such as plugs, maybe cap. Also consider some TB cleaner. Perhaps the fuel filter and PCV valve. All the performance mods are great, but you need to start with an Integra, reguardless of model, that is in tip top running order.

 

All I can say is make it a ls/vtec. If its done right it will be faster than throwing a Drag3 turbo kit on it.....

 

this is absolutely incorrect. The LS/Vtec, as being dynoed, is being shown to be more and more ineffective. In my opinion, its all hype. To make an ls/vtec, that could run with a drag turbo at 9psi, you would need to put about twice as much money as the drag turbo kit. Not a good idea.

I could go on into the technicalities, but will leave it at that.

 

how about at 87k miles, boosting 5.8psi I can hit 101mph trap speeds on street tires. you guys can figure what that would be in the 1/4.

Tom

 

97LSINTEGRA,

what does your car have done to it and what does it run?

My car has these mods and it runs 15.3@90mph.

The proof is in the pudding as they say.

 

Yeah, it does SUCK. It sucks lots of cold air. Unlike the factory intake which draws air from the engine bay the Type-R intake takes air from the wheel well.

I'm sure a nice "custom" exhaust with crimp bends and aluminumized piping is great for 1hp. My N1 netted 5 peak horses over the stock exhaust.
Almost all stock Honda motors tend to lean out on the top end. The B18B is a fine example of this. A fuel pressure regulator is an absolute must

Uh, yeah. If you're not reving over 7500 rpm Crower doesn't even recommend upgrading valve springs or retainers.

Cam gears may net 1 or 2 horse with mild non-vtec cams, but it's not really worth the $400 for the gears/install/dyno tuning until later.

 

yea i would say get a intake to start out with. not expensive and adds a lil

 

Heres where you start.....and end. http://www.revhard.com have spent a TON on my LS, I have all kinda crap. Let me tell you. DONT spend money on LS bolt ons, its not worth it. Get a turbo, I finally am. Save you money for that turbo! If you want more info about LS stuff, hit me up gonein11seconds on AIM.




[Modified by 97blackteg, 2:00 AM 7/7/2001]

 

Going Turbo anytime soon ? Yes ? Don't waste money on an intake, or headers... When you buy the turbo kit, they will become spare parts unless you have some one to sell them too...turbos come with custom intakes and custom exhaust manifolds (read: headers).

Getting an aftermarket exhaust ? Make sure you get one to handle turbo applications.... turbo exhausts need to be freer flow than exhaust for non turbo... and BTW, you can get 'custom' exhausts with mandrel bends (not crush bends) Miami muffler does 'em down here, cheeper than brand name. Make sure you get a good brand axle back exhaust tho.

As far as an Fuel press. Reg. ? Honda's make power in stock trim by running lean... that's one of their trade secrets... when you start to modify the intake side of the engine (intake, TB, cams etc...) you need to get a FPR to run with a higher pressure.... might not make much if any HP, but it will get the most out of whatever mod you do to the intake side.

New cams ? You will need stiffer vavlesprings/retainers if you go with higher grinds... the LS springs can't be hit up with larger cam lobes as the stock springs cannot rebound fast enough to avoid valve float...the LS is not good at that, not to mention the chance of a valve hitting the piston and ka-blooie !

Definitely going turbo ? Instead of go fast parts now...save for the turbo and throw some money at your brakes, tires and suspension (you gotta stop it ! )and make sure you do the turbo right.... you will need to buy other parts to compliment the turbo... fuel rail, oil pump, block guard...

Hell, if your budget permits... get new pistons and rods ahead of time !

2000 LS-Vtec.... what exactly do you have that can out do a DragIII ? I want to go LS-vtec, and excuse my skepticism...but that sounds damn near impossible !!!! What's the Drag running ? 0.2 bar ? heh heh HOLLA....

 

fuel rail, oil pump, block guard...


You dont need those parts unless you are running really high boost, you will be fine at 6-7 psi with all stock, injectors to be safe. the kit comes with most everyithing, just dont be dumb. The LS fuel rail can handle liek 300hp.

 

I dunno blackteg.... you are on the right track the the fuel rail.... you don't NEED it, but as far as the oil pump.... HELL YES... if you plan to run turbo... go with a GS-R oil pump... unless you are not concerned with the extended life of the engine or turbo. Even with low boost levels (6-7psi) I recommend a blockguard for safety... this will prevent any unwanted problems in the future.... the LS block is great for FI, better than the GS-R you could say, but a blockguard will save you headaches (possible) in the future. Hey, at about $130-$150, it's a cheap insurance policy... I don't see why you would run without it.... plus it gives you more confidence in your block, especially if you want to run NOS later on...

An LS engine won't be really happy under 8 psi.... at 6-7 you'll be running around 220 hp.... maybe less (at wheels) you'll prolly want more... protect your engine and turbo.... turbos are $$$ and can easily be destroyed if not cared for !
Hell, bore out that TB while you're at it !


[Modified by X2BOARD, 7:18 PM 7/7/2001]

 

ya I know, im upgrading oil pump, and plugs, and fuel pump, thats about it.... For now. I just want to strap on that turbo as soon as possible heh.

 

For a turbo LS:

Fuel Rail- Don't Need unless you have a built bottom and push 300hp as was stated before
Oil Pump- Not nec. also. Just change the oil every 3k with 10w30 synthetic.
Blockguard- Again, not nec. All of the "bolt in" blockguards are now regarded as being "crap" (ie, do more harm than help)

"the LS block is great for FI, better than the GS-R you could say, but a blockguard will save you headaches (possible) in the future."

The LS is great for FI, yes, because it has a 9.2:1 cr, however, the gsr block has oil squirters for the pistons to keep em cool, a stronger block design, and a head which was is designed to fight detonation better than the LS head.

"An LS engine won't be really happy under 8 psi.... at 6-7 you'll be running around 220 hp.... maybe less (at wheels) you'll prolly want more"

My LS is very happy at 6psi

Anything more than 7psi and you are *really* taxing the stock fuel injectors, as if they weren't taxed already.

To sum: wanna go fast in an LS? Spend 4k on a good 7psi turbo set-up and run low 14's, high 13's on street tires.

Good Luck.

Tom

 

That was my opinion.... but how can you argue when Tomakit has one... heh heh heh... What HP are you running with 6 psi anyways ?


Still waiting on the LS/VTEC that's faster than a DRAG III....

 

seriously bolt-ons on the LS was not worth it in my opinion. i spent around 1000+ on my AEM CAI, dc 4-2-1,comptech catback and the gain was no where near the gain i had from my Gude camshafts and head. id say get internals for your LS like some crower cams, cam gears, tb, manifold, or just go with the turbo.

 

head package ? OK OK OK, if you are doing that you will produce some serious power ! Did you have any down time to get the head package ? All of the bolt ons, honestly, will only enhance the power potential of what you have in your engine. A turbo or head package will actually CREATE power that the naturally aspirated engine was never capable of producing...... even the bolt ons will further enhance head or port work.

 

After ALLLLLLLLLLLLL that !

You mentioned quick Go-Go parts. So, you should get I/H/E. Then run that for a little and research a little more and save some dough in the process and decide which type of FI that you want to persue. Plus after having the I/H/E you will desire more stuff and soon have to enter a Detox after selling all your worldly belongings and your little sister and Grandmother too, so that you could buy black market parts from some private race tuning center. He He He...

Well well I still believe in I/H/E as the first mods to do while waiting to think of what next. True an aftermarket intake can't be used when going the Turbo route But, the aftermarket on used Teg parts is ripe and supportive. So why not get started with beginner parts before Big decisions are made and before beginning Your quest for knowledge with all things pertaining to modding Integras? If you decide to gone another route you could always sell your stuff for more cash, I did!

I had a 94/Ls last year and Did the AEM/CAI, DC sports SS 4-2-1 header and Greddy EVO catback. I was very pleased with my choices But, after doing my Rims and Rubber, I wished I had started with the suspension and handeling mods first.

I had next planned on the Eibach Prokit and Koni Yellows and a ITR front tower bar. Then I wanted a Neuspeed 19mm rear swaybar, and a new brake system from discs to pads and SS lines too.

The Ls has lots of potential being that it is of an especially sturdy design. It has proven very successful as a Turbo or SC recipient.

I sold my Ls for $6,400. with just 110k miles on the Odo. I bought my R's and started slowly,"Before going N/A which is my plan." I started with Intake "full Icebox' and have the Spoon 4-2-1 Header on order with a HF/cat. I've gained lots of knowledge in that My exhaust is not as restrictive as yours or other GSR's,"30% less restrictive." So I have to make an earlier decision than you with what to do next, and I'm currently working on it since I don't want a rumbling ***-End before I have the Bite!

Do Rims, Rubber, and suspension. Don't go 20in chrome with Skinny-***-Sh*t rubber, and don't go Droppin it 3 or more inches so's every time you hit a 1/2 inch dip on the Boulevard that you shatter your G/F's or dates teeth. Check if my suspension suggestion is still valid and think of more mods to finish the I/H/E process of letting your car breathe easier. Don't skimp on your ride. Don't buy unknown parts. Save a little now and enjoy alot later.

You get what you pay for!

Pay attention to the Techs postings and answers, They know alot. Pay attention to arguments about part performance. Look at debates about 1-2-3 different types of Intake or Exhaust. Post good questions based on a little knowledge that you may absorb here and you will start to learn alot more. Not just OT stuff, which is fun but doesn't really help others learn.

How about looking at other site's too for different advice or opinions. SHO still has some good Tech stuff, You just have to sift through more B.S. to find it. Tuan has really cleaned up the Teg forum lately. Check different sites for good solid data. Don't just rely on Word of mouth. Don't just be a follower.

And use the search option.

Good luck,

A.

 

at 6psi (.4bar wg spring) i should be at ~210hp methinks. thats what my trap speeds (101.xx) indicate anyway. im hopefully gonna dyno my car after i get back from vacation.

Tom