already did the basic bolt ons i/h/e here is how the next 1650 is planned...

NGK plugs 20
NGK wires 40
CAP&ROTOR 40
timing belt 40

55 shot nitrous 250 <----already bought, not yet installed

ITR/CTR cams 350
cam gears 150
Apex'i VAFC 225

Walbro 255 90
B&M FPR & gauge 90

SKUNK2 IM 250
Bored/Tapered TB 150

---------------------------------------------
TOTAL: 1645

plus a few hours of tuning on the dyno should put me right around 2 grand....

i've done a good two months of constant research and price comparisons and i am now ready to start amassing parts so that most of this can be done together...any help and or suggestions is greatly appreciated

 

Intake manifold gasket - 60 bucks at acura.
Water pump (if needed) - i forget how much.

 

valve cover gasket too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tmekjian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">already did the basic bolt ons i/h/e here is how the next 1650 is planned...

NGK plugs 20
NGK wires 40
CAP&ROTOR 40
timing belt 40

55 shot nitrous 250 &lt;----already bought, not yet installed

ITR/CTR cams 350
cam gears 150
Apex'i VAFC 225

Walbro 255 90
B&M FPR & gauge 90

SKUNK2 IM 250
Bored/Tapered TB 150

---------------------------------------------
TOTAL: 1645

plus a few hours of tuning on the dyno should put me right around 2 grand....

i've done a good two months of constant research and price comparisons and i am now ready to start amassing parts so that most of this can be done together...any help and or suggestions is greatly appreciated</TD></TR></TABLE>


Sounds like you worked it out to all parts adding up to EXACTLY how much you have too spend. Bad idea bro. There are so many little costs that you will run into that you'll need extra money for.

Never plan what your gonna do based on the amount you have to spend and use it all on the parts you want. Take into account that you'll have parts you'll NEED and you won't be disappointed in the end.

 

no i know...i was more just trying to put together a good plan and master list...

the whole money issue was an afterthought...i just thought, "i wonder how much this should cost me"...so i added it up

trust me, i know how the things will add up and cost more than expected and take 5 times longer to do than you thought

 

any more suggestions???...anything i shouldnt get???, anything to add??

 

I assume you're running a b-series engine since you're talking about ITR cams. You might want to think about upgrading your ECU with all of the other stuff, especially if you have an OBD2 setup. I did an OBD1 ECU switch (from a pt2 to a p28) and installed a mugen chip recently. I have most of the mods that you have listed minus the IM and TB, and I saw a noticeable difference in how quickly the revs go up and it registered a little faster on the butt dyno. Biggest thing is that it chirps 3rd now and it didn't before.

 

Just nitpicking, but:
you say 40 for Cap and rotor? That`s alot, I think I paid 25 for plugs, cap rotor and oil filter...
Also, while you`re doing the T-belt, just do the H20 pump too, while you`re in there...

Where you get the $$$ on the walbro FP, I need one too, maybe a GB somewhere(I have yet to start a search)?

 

 

 

timing belt alone w/ water pump etc. should cost you about 140-160...and when putting in new cams, you should pick up some new cam seals...because if they leak you'll be bs when you have to tear your head apart all over. Also when putting in your new cams you should adjust you valve lash!!! Doing it yourself id pick up the snapon tool that is going ot set u back about 50 bucks..also you left out the import gasket maker (aka honda bond) to reseal you valve cover gasket...forget getting a new one, just paste some of the gasket maker on there and it'll be fine. With the skunk2 mani you'll need some misc parts such as an ls tb pulley or, a itr tb. If your going to bore out you stock one, why not jus, itr throttle bracket, and instead of boring you stock tb..sell it and buy a used itr one...trust me will work soooo much better. I assume this is going on a gsr...if you dont use the bracket etc...youll have to custom make one yourself to fit under the gsr strut bar and hoodline...also where's you tuning cost? no time on a dyno w/ a wideban is pointless to get a vpac...your gonna butt dyno it, because ive never sen anyone fuel tune on a butt dyno...give me more details and ill give you more answers!!! add on another 200bucks for just miscellanous parts and that would be a ruff ballpark...also looks like you forget to calc shipping if your buying these off the net. neways hope that helps you out laters

 

wow, thanks...good advicce, who else wants to help???

 

IMO I would skip the IM and Just get a bigger tb and match it to the stock IM. Take that money and upgrade the valvetrain ITR or Crower, Skunk2, DPR, Portflow or whatever. Fuel pump B+M FPR go AEM or better. if your car is Obd2, get the adapter harness to make it obd1. chip a p28 or p30
p.s. sell the nawws and get hondata

 

with the whole ignition thing, i would just get a colder set of plugs and good wires. you dont need the other stuff. the fastest all-motor honda in the world runs off a stock honda ignition. besides, if you are only running a 55 shot, your chances of spark blowout are little to none.

 

What about valve guides? Would it be worth the time for him to have a shop install new bronze guides?