I want to try and get around 160hp out of my ls engine. What all will I need to do?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OoCRXoO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I want to try and get around 160hp out of my ls engine. What all will I need to do?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good luck

No, seriously. Are talking about N/A?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sima &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Good luck

No, seriously. Are talking about N/A?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Whatever .....

12:1 JE pistons
Crower 62404 cams
Skunk2 Intake manifold
4-1 style header
CAI
Other Various boltons
And probably at most 7500 RPM redline

120 ft-lbs @ 7000 is equal to 160 HP.....thats not unheard of.

 

However, and I know this a kicker, but for less than that in both time and money, you could put together a small junkyard turbo. Even a T-25 could get you that high, and you wouldn't even have to open the engine block.

Check out 62402T cams for that sorta application.

 

You can get that with 403 cams

BlueTeg got something like 155 with tuning 403's, and 2.25" i/h/c/e

add high comp pistons and you are way above 160.

 

165 whp untuned here

403 cams, 11.3:1 CR with pistons and rods, skunk2 im, i/h/e, ported head

but like it was said, it would be cheeper going to a small turbo, but if youre set on na go for it

 

ls/vtec might be a start

 

Just throw a Greddy kit on there, pretty cheap, and for those goals you are done after bolting it on. No real need for an intercooler, bov, etc..

 

yeah, just boost and be done with it..and be way over 160

 

Tood Reid on this board made close to 180whp N/A w/ OEM buttom end (LS rod, B16 pistons), and crower cams. Redline's @ 8200 if i'm not mistaken..

Jeff-

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OoCRXoO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I want to try and get around 160hp out of my ls engine. What all will I need to do?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is that NA or FI?

Is that 160 at wheel or at the crank?

Either one is possible. It depends on how much cash you got.

 

add I/H/E and a 50 shot and you'll be doing fine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sk8phaze &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">add I/H/E and...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I/H/C/E or I/H/T/E

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mskibbz-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just throw a Greddy kit on there, pretty cheap, and for those goals you are done after bolting it on. No real need for an intercooler, bov, etc.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah tell people not to use a bov and ruin their turbo.

anyways check my sig if u want a good deal on a turbo setup that would work for your swap. let me know. bmcc72@aol.com

 

I would think if you are talking at the crank then this is easily attainable. I dunno if i'd go turbo tho. In my opinion its better to go BPU before anything. First get your car breathing better as an NA. Then when you feel like you can handle it upgrade. I know money is a factor but IMO it will be worth the wait. Just my .02. Good luck.

Ben

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bengeeee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would think if you are talking at the crank then this is easily attainable. I dunno if i'd go turbo tho. In my opinion its better to go BPU before anything. First get your car breathing better as an NA. Then when you feel like you can handle it upgrade. I know money is a factor but IMO it will be worth the wait. Just my .02. Good luck.

Ben</TD></TR></TABLE>
whats BPU?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boywonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
whats BPU?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Basic performance upgrade.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bmcc72 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> yeah tell people not to use a bov and ruin their turbo.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Using the basic Greddy setup @ ~5-6 psi, you can very safely use the kit without a blow off valve.

Its just a good idea.

 

NA

say no to boost

 

i say go with the giggly gas.

 

If your only looking for 160 then and i'm assuming you plan on driving it everyday, then why not just add a JRSC. You shouldn't have any realy reliability issues then.

 

does he want whp or bhp? i say i/h/e/cams/cam gears/retainers/valve springs//apex safc 1 or 2/dyno tuning

 

http://www.g2ic.com/forums/sho...43784

Here you go................

 

A good friend of mine, who isn't into cars anymore had an LS back in 94. He had the head p&p, milled, valve job, HUGE cams grinded to custom specs by a shop called Genesis in SD back in the day, chipped ECU, sprockets, Gude header, straight pipe, and a 2.5 hour dyno session at MechTech in SD. He made 161hp, 128tq. The car was very quick, but it ran hella dirty, bumpy cams that spit unburnt crap all the time, even at idle, and the car would sometimes stall out unless you gave it gas, so his mileage was ****, but it's certainly possible. Remember, this was almost 10 years ago.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rodrez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A good friend of mine, who isn't into cars anymore had an LS back in 94. He had the head p&p, milled, valve job, HUGE cams grinded to custom specs by a shop called Genesis in SD back in the day, chipped ECU, sprockets, Gude header, straight pipe, and a 2.5 hour dyno session at MechTech in SD. He made 161hp, 128tq. The car was very quick, but it ran hella dirty, bumpy cams that spit unburnt crap all the time, even at idle, and the car would sometimes stall out unless you gave it gas, so his mileage was ****, but it's certainly possible. Remember, this was almost 10 years ago. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not bad