I am looking for a little more specific info than I could find.
I have a b18b with a micropolished crank, p+p head and intake manifold, Crower 405's, crower valvetrain, many bolt ons....its all in pieces...need to build the bottom end a little to match with the revving capabilities...I will be remapped to rev to 8700 and dont think it would be very safe on a stock bottom end?? Any input you could give me on what parts on a budget would help would be appreciated. Will boosting the compression help me at all? ctr pistons? will i need different rods? any info, thanks.

Its a given that I will need to get the car tuned to make decent HP, when it is all put together I will be getting it tuned.

 

word N/A B18B

Using the CTR pistons will jack the CR up a ton. About 11.4 : 1 which is pretty damn high for a B18B.

Have you ever thought about getting the crankshaft and rods balanced / rods shot peened? That'll prolly help a lot with handling the higher revs.

I dont think you have to worry about cylinder wall faliure if you get your internals balanced. B/c I think with the B18B, those will be the first things to fail if you reved it like that (since you already upgraded your valvetrain).

Look into a Darton 2.0L Modular Integrated Deck kit (resleeving) for an 84mm bore. New pistons and rods. That'll give you that SERIOUS lowend torqe that people want.

 

I don't think the LS valvtrain is really stable enough to handle 8700 RPM's. Besides 8700 RPM is alot of space to spread out one cam lobe.

The rocker arms are what scare me on the LS. With the way they just pivot on that ball, you might want to consider there revability.

 

good info, thanks...keep it coming.

what all is involved with a ctr piston install? what is needed?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by amber-bling &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good info, thanks...keep it coming.

what all is involved with a ctr piston install? what is needed?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok, if you gotta ask that, you prolly dont need to do it yourself. lol It's a PITA X 100 and an all day kinda thing if you dont pull the motor (IMO).

Get a Helms and that'll help you. B/c you have to worry about things like piston ring gaping and small technical details and such. Also if you do not push the pistons out correctly, you can scar the cylinderwalls. Then you'll have to take your block to get rehoned.


Nah reving the B18B cams to 8700 be aight... lol (i guess ) Just think of it like running Toda VTEC killers.

 

dont plan on doing it myself...but i want to have everything i need ready to go when we do it. Thanks

 

btw...everything is disassebled out of the car

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by amber-bling &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good info, thanks...keep it coming.

what all is involved with a ctr piston install? what is needed?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You need to mill 1mm (I am 80% sure of this) off the rod.

 

You do understand that a block girdle would also be suggested, even oil squirters should be installed, as a race only engine don't expect long life and if only about 185 whp is what your looking fofr then do it, it'll be different, but if you want ppower why not buy a VTEC head, you will make more power w/ the VTEC head. No matter how you build it it will always be better w/ the VTEC head swap, thisis a proven fact. Good luck and please don't say LS/VTEC aren't reliable, can't be any worse than the high compression, BIG cammed, not so high revving (but you'll do it anyway) LS engine. IMHO the $$$ you're gonna tie up in this all motor LS you'll still not get the power as say a STOCK H22A, EVEN if you do the 2.1 stroker kit in the LS it still won't make the hp and tq a stock H22 will...I'm just trying to put more info at your hands and am not hating (I'm not even saying put an H22 in). i am saying consider VTEC of some sorts due to the PROVEN methods established by the TOP RACERS IN THE IMPORT SCENE Good luck

 

already had a b16 with a built head...wanted something different thats all... I have a spare LS to blow basically so I thought I would give it a shot...its all gonna be tomporary..I'll see how long it lasts me. but I want to get the most out of it I can.

 

If it's gonna be temporary rev that bish to 9k on stock internals and see how temporary we can get it. haha. ;-)

Harry

 

on a budget id say b16a pistons (p30) youll only get 11.4 cr with ctr pistons and you have to machine them or the rods to fit. b16a will give you 11:1... then balance the rotating assy with new bearings arp rod/head bolts and a gsr girdle and youll be good to go.

thats a decent farely low cost block that will rev as high as you need it to in a non vtec...

as far as how high to take it, 8k is perfectly safe, 8.5 is feasible but after that ive been told that the rockers will start popping out.

 

I understand but know this also, a b16a is still no tourqe, once you mate the larger bottom end it's not gonna be anything like the original B16A was but like I said, good luck and keep us informed, if you go built ls I'd like to know what you run...later.

 

check sig

 

Good choice with the setup, I love my setup
I would get JE or forged pistons instead of the CTR, that would give you a lighter piston and you can chose any compression you want. I really recommend doing 84.5 bore with a straight sleeve. If you are going to rev that high you should also get the gridle to strengthen the bottom end at high revs.

 

if your gonna run those big *** crower cams i would go for more compression. go with oversized CTR pistons. with a little head milling you should be a little over 12:1 which would run perfectly fine on 92 octane.

defiantly have the bottom end rebuilt. high-speed balance the crank with the crank pulley and flywheel all together.

a GS-R/ITR or a Z10 block girdle is a very good investment. i would strongly recommend this if you plan to buzz that engine over 8000rpm.

a set of aftermarket rods would be the smartest thing but since your on a budget you can use the stock rods but i would replace the rod bolts to 8mm ARP rod bolts. and use all new honda bearings with the proper clearances.

the crower valve train will defiantly hold up to 9000+rpm even on a non-VTEC head. and the 405 cams will probably make some good power up that high as well.

as long as it's assembled correctly it should run pretty good and make some pretty good power. BUT the 405's are drag race only cams and the engine will not idle at anything less than 1500rpm. hope you know this.

good luck and keep us updated with your progess........i would love to see a dyno of crower 405 cams.......i never have seen one before........

 

thanks for all input/advice/etc...much appreciated. Idling I am aware will be a lil akward lol....but o well......

 

this is a nice thread because i'm planning to go the same route as you. i was thinkin of getting some headwork done at alaniz tech... you guys think that it's worth it? i think getting the JE/SRP pistons would be better for our setup. header-tech header maybe...

 

I have heard a couple times that a crower 404/ ctr piston setup in an ls block will yield a static compression ratio of 12.9:1. I highly, highly doubt that the ctr dome will clear the valves with 405's. I can't believe you got all that stuff, and you're asking if increasing the compression on a stock ls block will be good for 405 RACE cams. That would have been my first plan of attack, even on a stock ls.

 

speaking of the dome of the pistons not clearing the valves made me think about the fact that this happend when i had my b18b built. I'm using eagle rods with weisco "mid" dome pistons and crower 403 cams and i had problems with the clearances, off hand i dont remember the exact number the head was milled but i know it was just enought to make sure it was straight, nothing crazy. I had to have the valve reliefs in the pistons cut slightly deeper so there was enough clearance. in the end my compression turned out to be 11.3:1

so moral of the story is no matter what setup you end up doing make sure you check all the clearances just make sure everything is good

but anyways, more power to ya the weisco pistons and eagle rods are a good aftermarket alternative with not being super expensive the rods also include arp hardware
ballence the bottom end and you should have no problem reving to around 8500, i have taken mine up that high on occasion, just not that often because with my setup im not making power that high, my hp starts to fall off at about 8k

good luck

 

why does everyone keep talking about building the bottom end?

when everyone does ls/vtec (or even worse b20/vtec) they dont change the crank and ****. they just get a girdle and some other things (cant think now) and rev to atleast 8k

am i missing something?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Buckshot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why does everyone keep talking about building the bottom end?

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the stock LS rods sucks *** for reving over 8000rpm. there are pretty weak. they will last for a little while but eventually fail. that why i say you will at least need ARP rod bolts to make it somewhat reliable.

 

thanks again for keeping the thread alive with helpful info. any links to how-to's or whatnot ?

 

so just out of curiosity what are some of the people that posted on this topic running w/ their fully built LSs? This would help the decision also I'm sure, you're LS would sound like a harley, buy a stutter box and sound like the big boys So, whats everyone runnin?

 

good question bump it up!!