What can cause low RPM detonation?
Not 100% but it sounds like it I think. It sounds like rocks in a coffee can however it sounds like it's coming from below. Could it be my testpipe?
Bad detonation will be visible on your spark plugs. If they look okay, maybe you're hearing something else. Can you describe the sound?
Sounds like rocks in a coffee can from 3000 to 4500. How will the detonation look on the plugs? I think they looked nowmal. Maybe a little white.
Trending Topics
Well, when I describe what detonation sounds like, I say it's like rocks in a coffee can.
Moderate detonation will leave "freckles" on your spark plug. Violent detonation will cause physical damage the plug. If your problem is detonation, I'd be more concerned about detonation in the upper rpm's where you can't hear it.
Do you know what your air/fuel map looks like?
Moderate detonation will leave "freckles" on your spark plug. Violent detonation will cause physical damage the plug. If your problem is detonation, I'd be more concerned about detonation in the upper rpm's where you can't hear it.Do you know what your air/fuel map looks like?
check your valve train...
my friend has a 97 motor and he thought it was detenation as well, but it came out to be the valvetrain..
my friend has a 97 motor and he thought it was detenation as well, but it came out to be the valvetrain..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR1858 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would say retard timing fist and see what happens..</TD></TR></TABLE>
agreed.
agreed.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, it's advanced to 18 degrees and is fine tuned by Hondata.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Put it back to 16 and use the ignition tables on the Hondata to tune your advance. There's no need to mechanically advance your timing with a standalone, that's what the standalone is for.
Put it back to 16 and use the ignition tables on the Hondata to tune your advance. There's no need to mechanically advance your timing with a standalone, that's what the standalone is for.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PsychO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If its knocking you could be spinning a rod bearing. Just a guess....
PsychO</TD></TR></TABLE>
man I feel sorry for someone who thinks a spun rod bearing sounds like detonation.
(NOTE: its a general comment.. just thought it was funny.)
weeeeeeeeee.
PsychO</TD></TR></TABLE>
man I feel sorry for someone who thinks a spun rod bearing sounds like detonation.
(NOTE: its a general comment.. just thought it was funny.)
weeeeeeeeee.
OK, I'll try that.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hanson said »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
agreed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
agreed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jonnybravo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm getting low RPM detonation while under load. Any idea on why? I checked my plugs and they look good.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Pre-ignition is caused by timing that is too advanced and too low octane.
You might also want to check your cam timing if you have adjustable cam gears. Retard the intake cam.
You will probably have to get a minor re-tune unless you can get better gas in there.
Pre-ignition is caused by timing that is too advanced and too low octane.
You might also want to check your cam timing if you have adjustable cam gears. Retard the intake cam.
You will probably have to get a minor re-tune unless you can get better gas in there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jonnybravo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I lower the timing through the dist. down to 16, will my Hondata settings all drop by 2 degrees also?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes. the units of measurement on your Hondata ignition maps are degrees of advance. For example is the cell you're currenly in (MAP vs. RPM) has a value of 2 and your ignition timing is set to 16, your actual timing will be 18 degrees.
Yes. the units of measurement on your Hondata ignition maps are degrees of advance. For example is the cell you're currenly in (MAP vs. RPM) has a value of 2 and your ignition timing is set to 16, your actual timing will be 18 degrees.




