cost of shaving sidemouldings?
Well usually the REAL cost of shaving moldings/emblems, etc..comes from the paint job. I had my rear trunklid shaved. JUST the welding costed 125 for the spoiler and emblem holes. They have to sand it and all that good stuff too. Spot welding takes a long time and if you rush it, you will warp the sheet metal. So just make sure you're getting a good job done. Sometimes when you think you're getting the "hook-up" you actually aren't. Remember, you get what you pay for.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94goldjungsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm quite a difference we have here.
since im getting hooked im im guessing maybe 100 or 150 for both sides.</TD></TR></TABLE>
not really.......try 400 and up per side......it is alot of sanding
steve
since im getting hooked im im guessing maybe 100 or 150 for both sides.</TD></TR></TABLE>
not really.......try 400 and up per side......it is alot of sanding
steve
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94goldjungsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">by hooked up i mean i know the owner of a body shop. ill get the same job everyone else gest (good), just cheaper</TD></TR></TABLE>
then why are u asking us? why dont u ask him?
then why are u asking us? why dont u ask him?
Woah where are you guys getting the body work done that you are paying so much for side moldings. If you are painting your car anyways then why are you going to pay for someone to do the work for you? There are 3 ways that you can go about this.
1. If you want the moldings to dissapear and look flat on your car. Then all you have to do is remove the panneling and fill in all the plug holes with bondo or similar product. Then you take some sheet metal and spot weld it over the gap (this is assuming that you have already sanded down the paint to the bare metal). Then you sand down the welds and smooth it all out with bondo and sand it down again. Then take some bondo on wax paper and smooth in all the little gaps and stuff and fine sand it smooth. Then go get it painted.
2. If you want to have an indent (which I personally think looks really nice), remove the moldings and again take bondo and fill in the holes. I should say that when you are doing the filling in the plug holes, first remove the interior door panel and make sure that the bondo is not seeping onto things like your window regulators or wiring. Also smooth it out on the inside of the panel. It will make it alot stonger. Anyways wait for the bondo to dry and sand it flush with the body panel. Then once again take way paper with some bondo and smooth it out again filling in all of the little holes. Then use fine paper and sand it again all flat. Then paint it.
3. This is very similar to 1 & 2 but it is really cheap way to do it. This is if you want the moldings to look totally flat. Remove the moldings and fill it in with bondo. Then sand that rough. Then with more Bondo fill in the whole molding imperssion. Do this in thin layers at a time. It makes it look alot better and minimalizes the change of imperfections. During each layer make sure you take the wax paper and smooth the bondo down to eliminate gaps. Then do this over and over and over until you are flush with the body panel. This way is the easiest but the dumbest way to do it. I dont like filling in large amounts of body with Bondo unless you have too.
Then when you are done that you have to go and get it painted and a place like Maaco can do that for like $300 for each side.
I hope this helps you out.
CRX Forum
1. If you want the moldings to dissapear and look flat on your car. Then all you have to do is remove the panneling and fill in all the plug holes with bondo or similar product. Then you take some sheet metal and spot weld it over the gap (this is assuming that you have already sanded down the paint to the bare metal). Then you sand down the welds and smooth it all out with bondo and sand it down again. Then take some bondo on wax paper and smooth in all the little gaps and stuff and fine sand it smooth. Then go get it painted.
2. If you want to have an indent (which I personally think looks really nice), remove the moldings and again take bondo and fill in the holes. I should say that when you are doing the filling in the plug holes, first remove the interior door panel and make sure that the bondo is not seeping onto things like your window regulators or wiring. Also smooth it out on the inside of the panel. It will make it alot stonger. Anyways wait for the bondo to dry and sand it flush with the body panel. Then once again take way paper with some bondo and smooth it out again filling in all of the little holes. Then use fine paper and sand it again all flat. Then paint it.
3. This is very similar to 1 & 2 but it is really cheap way to do it. This is if you want the moldings to look totally flat. Remove the moldings and fill it in with bondo. Then sand that rough. Then with more Bondo fill in the whole molding imperssion. Do this in thin layers at a time. It makes it look alot better and minimalizes the change of imperfections. During each layer make sure you take the wax paper and smooth the bondo down to eliminate gaps. Then do this over and over and over until you are flush with the body panel. This way is the easiest but the dumbest way to do it. I dont like filling in large amounts of body with Bondo unless you have too.
Then when you are done that you have to go and get it painted and a place like Maaco can do that for like $300 for each side.
I hope this helps you out.
CRX Forum
CRXForum:
Great explanation on how to shave the molding. I was thinking about going to a bodyshop and was even goin to post a thread on it until i saw this one. How much do you think materials would cost to do it yourself?
Great explanation on how to shave the molding. I was thinking about going to a bodyshop and was even goin to post a thread on it until i saw this one. How much do you think materials would cost to do it yourself?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">CRXForum:
Great explanation on how to shave the molding. I was thinking about going to a bodyshop and was even goin to post a thread on it until i saw this one. How much do you think materials would cost to do it yourself?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well when I did the whole rear wheel wells and trunk of an 87 Civic it cost me about $100CDN in materials. That included a large container on Bondo, multi pack of automotive sand paper, wire mesh as a frame for the wheel well repair, and some self tapping metal screws. I dont think you will need the mesh, or screws so you can count those out.
I needed a grinder to remove the rust. I needed an electric sander for the finishing off and shaping. I needed a file to shave off large amount of bondo, and an electric drill to do the screws. I also bought 3 rolls of wax paper but I only used 2. For side moldings you will only need the wax paper, file, and sander. If you have rust then you will need a grinder to remove that metal, because just covering it up with bondo will not stop the spread of rust.
I would estimate that doing both sides of the car will take 5-7 hours. Like a whole saturday from morning until about 3-5. That doesnt include clean up which will take about 1 hours as well.
You should also make sure that you tape off and mask all of the panels around the area that you are working. If you drop a glob of bondo on the panel it will stick and harden. Also make sure you take around all doors, windows, hood and trunk or you will have alot of bondo dust flying around and that is not the best to inhale it will make you nauseaus(sp?).
If you need any more help just post here and I will check back.
CRX Forum
Great explanation on how to shave the molding. I was thinking about going to a bodyshop and was even goin to post a thread on it until i saw this one. How much do you think materials would cost to do it yourself?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well when I did the whole rear wheel wells and trunk of an 87 Civic it cost me about $100CDN in materials. That included a large container on Bondo, multi pack of automotive sand paper, wire mesh as a frame for the wheel well repair, and some self tapping metal screws. I dont think you will need the mesh, or screws so you can count those out.
I needed a grinder to remove the rust. I needed an electric sander for the finishing off and shaping. I needed a file to shave off large amount of bondo, and an electric drill to do the screws. I also bought 3 rolls of wax paper but I only used 2. For side moldings you will only need the wax paper, file, and sander. If you have rust then you will need a grinder to remove that metal, because just covering it up with bondo will not stop the spread of rust.
I would estimate that doing both sides of the car will take 5-7 hours. Like a whole saturday from morning until about 3-5. That doesnt include clean up which will take about 1 hours as well.
You should also make sure that you tape off and mask all of the panels around the area that you are working. If you drop a glob of bondo on the panel it will stick and harden. Also make sure you take around all doors, windows, hood and trunk or you will have alot of bondo dust flying around and that is not the best to inhale it will make you nauseaus(sp?).
If you need any more help just post here and I will check back.
CRX Forum
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">CRXForum:
Great explanation on how to shave the molding. I was thinking about going to a bodyshop and was even goin to post a thread on it until i saw this one. How much do you think materials would cost to do it yourself?</TD></TR></TABLE>
when i did mine...
it cost me about $10 in metal and i bought a gallon of filler for about $20(depending on what you use) i had a welder so... but i had to buy 2 spools of wire about $10 each. sand paper will vary on how much you use and what kind. just dont buy crap cuz it will clog fast and be unusable..
I'm in the process of repainting my car now and i am redoing the body work..
its been one year since i did it the first time and the crap filler is starting to crack out and its real thin since i used metal in my modlings. Now i am using this stuff called z-grip and its so thick, it is hard to sand using 36 grit. after that im going to re-wipe with this metal glaze that will fill in all the pinhoiles and minor imperfections.
one thing the hard part to doing this is getting the curvature in the door back. the lower part of the molding is higher than the top stall line, so you have to build up on the lower part of the door to get the curv back.
make sure you get the car up as high as you can so you are comfortable. if you having to bend over and all crouched over it wont be straight. Use the longest block you can find and count how many times you sand in one direction and repeat in the other direction. Sand in X's
and dont resort to filling holes in with filler, just weld them cuz it will crack. One thing you could use is fuzer to hold in panels, that **** is tough
Great explanation on how to shave the molding. I was thinking about going to a bodyshop and was even goin to post a thread on it until i saw this one. How much do you think materials would cost to do it yourself?</TD></TR></TABLE>
when i did mine...
it cost me about $10 in metal and i bought a gallon of filler for about $20(depending on what you use) i had a welder so... but i had to buy 2 spools of wire about $10 each. sand paper will vary on how much you use and what kind. just dont buy crap cuz it will clog fast and be unusable..
I'm in the process of repainting my car now and i am redoing the body work..
its been one year since i did it the first time and the crap filler is starting to crack out and its real thin since i used metal in my modlings. Now i am using this stuff called z-grip and its so thick, it is hard to sand using 36 grit. after that im going to re-wipe with this metal glaze that will fill in all the pinhoiles and minor imperfections.
one thing the hard part to doing this is getting the curvature in the door back. the lower part of the molding is higher than the top stall line, so you have to build up on the lower part of the door to get the curv back.
make sure you get the car up as high as you can so you are comfortable. if you having to bend over and all crouched over it wont be straight. Use the longest block you can find and count how many times you sand in one direction and repeat in the other direction. Sand in X's
and dont resort to filling holes in with filler, just weld them cuz it will crack. One thing you could use is fuzer to hold in panels, that **** is tough
shaving mouldings should be around 150-200 a side, but mostly i've seen them go for 300 for both. Now if its a civic then it might be a bit pricier, because sometimes they dont even weld they just use shavings in the middle. SO ask what & how they are going to attempt to do the job. I dunno about 600 bucks but most body shop averages around 150 a side.
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