Well as you know I'm running a 99 gsr on race springs and kyb gr-2s(don't talk crap about the struts). This threw the camber way off so I invested in a Skunk 2 Camber kit up front. Picked it up for 180 at the local Nopi

Anyways, Only one shop in town will do alignments on lowered cars, and they charge out the *** since they have a monopoly. Over 200 I believe. What bitches. Anyways, I have a bad *** auto shop at school equipped w/ the laser alignment system(didn't get pics). I decided I would give that a try.

The car could barely make it on the rack, without any help at all. We had boards ready if that was gonna be necessary. Started off on the rear, camber was just in spec, but toe was way off(see printout below). Fixed that. It is so easy. Just loosen a bolt, turn the arm and tighten it back when teh computer says it is in spec. Up front I set the camber to about -1 degrees. The skunk 2 kit was really easy. I just lifted the front of the car a little bit, made a small change, then lowed it back down and checked the camber. Done. Finally, fixed the toe which was majorly off after all the other changes. Set that to 0 and I was through. Total time was about 2 hours, which was mostly getting the car on the rack and setting up the equipment. God I love air tools and a hydraulic lift

Finally I took teh car for a test drive. It drives freakin awesome. No pull at all. Steering wheel perfectly centered. Turns like a dream. And it just sounds like a much smoother ride. I can't hear any road noise. It used to sound like the tires were tearing the ground, or the opposite

Anyways, I wish everyone could come to augusta to get a bad *** alignment by me on their dropped cars for free. Here is the printout...

 

hey tim, glad to hear that your car is aligned now.. and hope that my skunk2 guide helped ya out in the install some. So wats ur impression of the skunk2 kit so far?

 

My friend who works at a Chevy dealer aligns mine for me, I usually give him $20-$30 for his time.

What's up with your rear camber? 0 on one side and -2 on the other side? That can't be good.

 

whoa.. seriously.. didnt even notice that...

 

Yea, I really have no idea how that was off so much. You can see how at the beginning of the alignment the rear toe was closer to 0, then at the end that rear right got off camber a lot. I am pretty sure we messed up the laser in the rear that read the camber back there. That is why it shows it off so much. Just sitting on a flat surface both wheels look like they have equal camber as the front wheels. I think we just messed up the reading.

Anyways, yea thanks pdc for the instructions. They helped a lot, and we ended up getting the tie rod puller. It is necessary. A pry bar could not seperate the parts. The install was smooth, took about 2 1/2 hours last night, which included running to autozone and renting teh tool, and spending probably 10-15 minutes looking for 2 bolts that we finally found on the toolbox. Hehe. It was really easy to adjust the kit. I was unhappy to see more paint chipping off the kit after I tightened down the allen head bolts Whatever, no one sees it anyways.

The car finally drives perfect

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tim Maryak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Anyways, I wish everyone could come to augusta to get a bad *** alignment by me on their dropped cars for free. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm only a 3 hour drive....

 

Damn, Tim...I wish I lived closer to GA. I'd come down there and get it done. My car hums like crazy on the highway, and there's no one who will align lowered cars around here. Sucks...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tim Maryak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well as you know I'm running a 99 gsr on race springs and kyb gr-2s(don't talk crap about the struts).</TD></TR></TABLE>

btw, nothing wrong with that setup! I've been running the same setup for over a year now and the struts are still going strong. to GR-2's!!

 

try 1/16" toe out in the fronts for better turn-in

 

damn I wish i could do my own alignments..

 

What was the tie-rod puller for? Installing the Skunk2 arms? I really don't understand why shops won't align lowered cars, at least the ones that don't run aftermarket camber kits. The only problems I've experienced is the front bumper or splash guard blocking the lasers in front. On my car we just removed the splash guard and had no problems. Other people could probably remove the front bumper and have no problems. It took us like 15 minutes to align my car, including setting up the sensors for each wheel. We just set it up, adjusted the toe in back, adjusted the toe in front, and we were done.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tim Maryak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyways, yea thanks pdc for the instructions. They helped a lot, and we ended up getting the tie rod puller. It is necessary. A pry bar could not seperate the parts. The install was smooth, took about 2 1/2 hours last night, which included running to autozone and renting teh tool, and spending probably 10-15 minutes looking for 2 bolts that we finally found on the toolbox. Hehe. It was really easy to adjust the kit. I was unhappy to see more paint chipping off the kit after I tightened down the allen head bolts Whatever, no one sees it anyways.

The car finally drives perfect</TD></TR></TABLE>

Glad to hear that my web page helped ya out... glad it helps somebody out hahah... and ur right.. its underneathe the fender so no one's gonna see it anyway so don't let that stress you.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What was the tie-rod puller for? Installing the Skunk2 arms? </TD></TR></TABLE>

yea the tie rod puller is needed in the install of the skunk2 camber kit.

 

yea it was free to rent the tie rod puller, and it was definately worth the trip when installing the skunk 2 camber kit. We tried using a pry bar but that could not get the leverage.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ebelp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

btw, nothing wrong with that setup! I've been running the same setup for over a year now and the struts are still going strong. to GR-2's!!</TD></TR></TABLE>



Working great for me...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ingrate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try 1/16" toe out in the fronts for better turn-in</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's a little late now for changes. I'm glad I took automechanics because the teacher will let his students come back to the shop after they graduate and do whatever they need to on their cars. He is such a pimp

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ebelp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

btw, nothing wrong with that setup! I've been running the same setup for over a year now and the struts are still going strong. to GR-2's!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

i got a set for sale....never used...

 

My camber readings look like your's, right front is way negative while left front is within spec. This is lowered on Prokits. My thoughts were something was bent but the Acura dealer didn't find anything on the last alignment. Eases my mind knowing that somebody else had the same readings.

 

well it definitely shouldn't be like that. With my H&R Sports, my front camber is exactly -2.3 on both sides of the car. In back it's -1.9 left and -2.1 right.

 

I'm really not too worried about it. The car drives perfect. Also, 2 degrees of neg camber in teh rear is within spec. If the reading is correct, which I doubt, I have no clue how it got so off. The car has never been in a wreck...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well it definitely shouldn't be like that. With my H&R Sports, my front camber is exactly -2.3 on both sides of the car. In back it's -1.9 left and -2.1 right.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea I know... upper control arm on the right side has been changed along with the wheel bearing. I'm just glad to see an alignment sheet that looks like mine. The only ill effects seem to be nicer turn-in on left turns. It does pull slightly to the left too.

 

I have no idea why your camber is way off in the front and rear. I have the same suspension setup.

Lowered on:
- H&R Sport Springs
- Koni Yellow Sport Shocks.

Before Alignment (All in degrees):

Front Wheels:

Left Front Camber: -1.69
Right Front Camber: -1.74
Left Front Toe: -0.13
Right Front Toe: 0.06

Rear Wheels:

Left Rear Camber: -1.07
Right Rear Camber: -1.12
Left Rear Toe: 0.43
Right Rear Toe: 0.06


After Alignment Done(All in degrees):

Front Wheels:

Left Front Camber: -1.69
Right Front Camber: -1.74
Left Front Toe: 0.01
Right Front Toe: 0.01

Rear Wheels:

Left Rear Camber: -1.27
Right Rear Camber: -1.13
Left Rear Toe: 0.09
Right Rear Toe: 0.09

 

Yea I"m not really sure either, but it's cool. The car drives perfectly now.

 

I feel so sorry for you guys. Up here in NH, I have no problem getting an alignment. In fact after I got one and they told me I needed a camber kit, I went back and they set camber and realigned for free!

-Keith