My car is having some hesitation that has started up within the last few days.

I had a similar issue before, but that was from my intake manifold not being torqued down properly.

When the car is cold there is no problem. After the car is warmed up it starts having issues.

At lower rpm's and part throttle the engine will bog down when I am trying to accelerate.

I havent checked timing yet

But, after 4k rpm it runs fine

any portion of vtec runs fine as well 5k-9k

no cel's

the car idles, but its kinda rough idle. i could care less about the idle. I just want it to run regular when driving around

edit: there isnt much trouble shooting listed in the hemls manual under the fuel pump. it only trouble shoots to see if it is working or not (like completely dead)

 

fuel filter?

 

I imagine if the filter were clogged or the pump was running bad (slow??) it would be most noticeable at high revs, high load. After all, that's when the engine uses the most gas.

Besides, I think pumps either run OK or they don't run at all.

Check spark timing. Is there any reason to suspect cam timing? If so, check that first, then check spark timing.

Check your coolant temperature sensor. If the ECU thinks the engine's still cold, it'll use wrong mixture. But if that's it, why doesn't it throw a CEL?

 

no codes

put a new fuel filter less than 1k miles ago

i have rc310 injectors with less than 10k on them

 

have you inspected cap and rotor? (I know it sounds odd...but it's also a "weak point" of the system).

 

Iam going to break down and buy a stupid timing gun, even though I will only use it 2x (hopefully)

i will check timing and see whats up and also take of the distributor

I cant remember off hand when I had a new cap & rotor put on

but why would it be temp dependent? it works fine when cold then warm it is wacky. and also above 4.7~k rpm it works completely fine?

 

Take off the distributor cap & look for evidence of anything burned or messed up. Cap & rotor & plug wires can get flaky with temperature, but I usually get it backwards. In other words, they're flaky when cold & damp; start working OK when hot.

But maybe the coil & ICM inside the distributor can get worse when they get hot? But if so, I don't understand why they'd be OK at high revs...

 

any other ideas?

I still havent figure it out yet

 

Sounds more like a vac leak to me