For some reason my car is throwing this code. I had a CEL because of my O2 sensor, and after an ECU reset the Code 20 stayed, although it did not trigger a CEL.

I've double-checked my main grounds, etc and everything is good. I actually replaced the grounds, connectors, and cleaned all grounding points just to make sure.

The car runs perfectly find and from what I understand the only reason why I was getting a CEL was becasue of my O2 sensor - the electronic load detector doesn't seem to trigger a CEL, but when I short the service connector the car gives me a code 20.

What the hell is an electronic load detector, and should I be concerned?

My car is a '92 Integra, and in my Helms manual there is no mention of this code. If it makes a difference, I'm running an Erick's Racing ECU w/SAFC.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Adam

 

Does your battery die because of your eld code?? I have the same code in my car right now and i dont know how to get the code cleared either. But i charge my battery and i even changed the alternator and it still throws a code 20 and my battery doesnt charge.

 

ur o2 sensor is just detecting too much pressure....get a o2 simulator

 

I just had this code recently on my 01 GSR. I brought it into the dealer since it was still warranty. They said that my high voltage regulator was bad,so it caused my alternator to go bad, causing my battery to go bad. Like a domino effect. I barely made it to the dealership. As soon as I pulled into their garage, my car died. Whewww... Close call.

 

Did you blow your alternator fuse? Check it. Mine was blown and I replaced it but it blew again so I took the car in.

 

I was throwing the same code along with code 65, the secondary o2 sensor. My battery was dying, my speedo stopped working and the car idled at 1400rpm's. Turned out to be a burnt alternator fuse.

 

Thanks guys.. I will def look into those issues.

Funny thing is my car runs PERFECTLY. Only reason why I knew I had that code was because I had a CEL from my bad O2 sensor.

I've read that CANDIAN Cars don't come with an ELD. Is this true? My car is Canadian, but I'm running an erick's racing ecu - thinking this may have something to do with it? I'm just throwing ideas out...

Maybe it was caused by my O2 sensor problems.. I haven't reset my ecu since I installed my new sensor.. I'm going to try that, and see if the code 20 disappears.

Thanks again,
Adam

 

possibly your ecu that you have remapped is probably a remapped JDM rom, thus the ROM will be looking for the ELD...I had this issue when i remapped my P13 ECU to the spoon map...

I really wouldnt be too concerned over this... howver if your cars starts to blow fuses and light bulbs unexpectedly in a short time frame get it checked out

 

Thanks for the piece of mind!

Adam

 

resurrecting this thread..

I'm having the same problem. Been posting in the FI forum but I'm not getting anywhere with those guys.

I've got a Canadian 98 jrsc gsr.

I got my a/f tuned on the dyno last Friday and I've been throwing CEL 20 and 41 since. I just converted from obd2 to obd1 with a usdm p28 ecu. The tuner did have a wideband o2 on the car so the stock o2 was removed during the tuning.

Checked the alternator fuse and it's fine. The car runs fine. Nothing is failing..

My tuner said the car is tuned so well it will run without the o2. It starts fine, no problems..

Reset the ecu .. both codes comes right back.

I tried swapping my secondary o2 with the primary and still got both codes. I know our cars have ELDs. I know a honda technician and he comfirmed it.

I'm wondering whether it's the usdm ecu that's causing the problem. Could a bad socketing job cause this?

When my tuner looked at the socketing job on the p28, he had said it's not that great. He said "whoever solderd this skimped on the solder like it's expensive or something" The p28 I purchased was presocketed and was supposedly done at a hondata dealer. But it seems to be holding up.

Is it possible that a bad soldering job is causing the cel20 and 41?

Just seems wierd.. my perfectly good o2 was fine before the tuning. Now it's throwing a code. I swap my secondary o2 and it's still throwing a code?
What's the chance that both o2's are bad when they were fine before tuning?

 

My Helm book for '95 Integra shows US & Canadian wiring, for example DRLs. It says that the ELD is only on US cars, but maybe by '98 that was different.

The ELD doesn't drive the alternator, the voltage regulator does that. The ELD is a current shunt that measures the total electrical load. It's a very small resistance built into the fusebox, so it makes a very small voltage drop. When you suddenly turn on a big electrical load, the ECU uses that information to anticipate what it has to do with the IACV to hold the idle steady. I guess a bad soldering job could mess that up since the signal is pretty small to begin with.

Code 41 is the heater for the primary O2 sensor. Code 65 is the corresponding code for the secondary sensor. Since you get 41 & not 65 even when you swap sensors, I bet it's in the heater circuit, not the heater itself (which is built into the O2 sensor). Look for a busted wire somewhere, or a bad connection at the ECU. ...Like a mucked-up solder joint...

 

The reason why I'm not throwing a 65 is probably because the p28 doesn't check for a secondary o2.

What you are saying sounds correct.. at least it's something to check out.. thanks. My tuner has a cdn p28 socketed properly. I'm going to try that before we resolder everything on my ecu.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BringIT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The reason why I'm not throwing a 65 is probably because the p28 doesn't check for a secondary o2...</TD></TR></TABLE>Oh yeah. duh!

It could still be a busted wire somewhere outside of the ECU. The sensor heater circuit should ALWAYS have +12v from the main relay. The ECU closes the other side of the heater circuit when it wants to run the heater. Someone said it ALWAYS runs the heater, so ???
Maybe the wire from the heater back to the ECU isn't for turning the heater on & off. Maybe it's just for the ECU to check that the heater works.

 

Is there a fuse for the sensor heater circuit in the fusebox under the hood or the dash?

How do you test it for 12V? The connector end where the pri o2 goes is one end. How do you test the other end? At the ecu?


Modified by BringIT at 10:31 AM 1/22/2004

 

You need a wiring drawing for your year. (Helm book...) They changed a LOT of wiring between OBD-1 & OBD-2...

Whatever you have to do to energize the main relay (key on), then use a voltmeter to check that pin on the O2 sensor plug.

On mine, the +12v comes from the main relay, not 'from' the ECU. It's fused along with a couple other things, like maybe the ECU power. So if that fuse was blown you'd know it.

Since your ECU doesn't check for 2ndary sensor, it's possible that both of their heaters are fried. Set your multimeter for resistance & measure across the heater pins on the sensor. Should be (I think??) between 15 & 40 ohms.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ryu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">possibly your ecu that you have remapped is probably a remapped JDM rom, thus the ROM will be looking for the ELD...I had this issue </TD></TR></TABLE>

I had the same problem with my b16/eg.
I had a CEL caused by the ELD, but the car ran great.

I was running a canadian car too.

 

and you fixed this by replacing the eld (fusebox)? How much did that cost?