i noticed someone posted a thread about this tie bar a lil while back. i remeber that it was still kicking around in a friend's garage somewhere. so i went and found it and put it on. it didn't make any noticable differance when i installed it on a friends bone stock CX and i wasn't expecting it to do anything for my hatch either. Since i put the ES bushings in i have noticed a bit of lag in the steering. i'll try anything i can to get rid of that.
amazingly it did some good. turn in is better and the front feels a tad tighter. its not leaps and bounds better but its noticable.
i have no idea who makes it. there are a few on Ebay right now going for $50. yellow


as you can see it mounts to the front LCA bolts and then to one of the rear subframe bolts. all bolts are 19mm
these are torqued to 66lbs

the rears are also torqued to 66lbs

the only thing that worries me is that the helms manual says that any subrame bolts that are remvoed are to be replaced. i am too poor for that so i just hope my car stays together

 

u shouldve painted it before u put it on.. and dang that sits pretty low dude

 

I got that bar in my basement too but in red, just waiting to put it on. Looks good might put it on asap now too

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autobacs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> and dang that sits pretty low dude</TD></TR></TABLE>

Same as the Cusco, they are too dangerous on a lowered car.

 

ya , ive macked my spoon one on bumps , you guys should see how fucked up it is

 

Why dangerous?

What are good sides od tie bar, and what are bad?

After I mounted front tie bar on my Del Sol, wheel get little harder...

Here is pic;

 

man i want one too now

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sshaikh01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">man i want one too now</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its not leaps and bounds better but its noticable.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why? All it takes is that bitch catching the rim of a pothole once and you can say goodbye to your lower suspension. I'd rather eat at Taco Bell 10 times than install a potentially hazardous suspension component on my Honda.

 

a friend of mine went over one of those steel boards on the ground, and the tie bar caught and ripped apart his front suspension.

 

Since i put the ES bushings in i have noticed a bit of lag in the steering. i'll try anything i can to get rid of that.
amazingly it did some good. turn in is better and the front feels a tad tighter. its not leaps and bounds better but its noticable.

the only thing that worries me is that the helms manual says that any subrame bolts that are remvoed are to be replaced. i am too poor for that so i just hope my car stays together[/QUOTE]

some other things that can be causing that feeling of sloppy steering are tire sidewalls, spring rates, shock condition, strutbar, and swaybar.

a tire with a tall or soft sidewall will have to flex and settle down on itself when turning or doing the sharp back and forth turning exercise. soft shocks may not rebound fast enough, and in the same respect soft springs will take more time and travel to compress, increasing the feeling of body roll. a large swaybar will help alot, a good strutbar will give you more response by reducing the flex between shock towers(flex is basically the chasis' response to pressure or g's if you take the flex out then the suspension will take over the energy originally lost in the chasis), a 3 point bar would be best. and finally a crossmember brace and even traction bars will really finish it off. anything to get the shocks and springs to do ALL of the work, then chose a setup or coilovers based on your application and intentions... for the least deflection pillowball uppermounts are best, but remember all of these mods add to ride harshness too.

and you should be fine with the old lca bolts, if we all replaced all the bolts after taking them off each time... we would have been broke along time ago

 

yea i was debating on trying that bar, i too see them on ebay. is that bar on a EK or EG? i've always been wondering, because the ad on ebay says for 92-00 civics, and i was wondering if the EG's and EK's share the same front subframe. can anybody clarify this?

 

who makes that bar? i really want one!

 

Damn man, I'm reading this thread and having second thoughts about installing my spoon front lower tie bar. What's the lowest drop you could have, anyone know?

 

Yeah I thought I would try it too, but it didn't fit. These are some pics of the bar sitting on a sub-frame that is out of the car. It didn't fit the 93 CX sub-frame shown, and it didn't fit a 98 ITR sub-frame either. I bought it from the guy on eBay that's selling them and I'm still trying to work something out with him. I think it's defective, but he told me to put washers between the bar and the sub-frame. Personally I think it's too big of a difference to make up with washers and will decrease the thread engagement of the front bolts too much.

 

so do EG's and EK's share the same front subframes?

 

if your car was low enough, one bottom out and say good bye

 

Just a bump to keep it up

 

how was the quality and fitment? If it really does make a slight slight slight difference, then maybe i'll buy one. hell, it's only $50. i'd definitely paint it another color, though.

 

Does anyone have the ebay links?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChiBoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah I thought I would try it too, but it didn't fit. These are some pics of the bar sitting on a sub-frame that is out of the car. It didn't fit the 93 CX sub-frame shown, and it didn't fit a 98 ITR sub-frame either. I bought it from the guy on eBay that's selling them and I'm still trying to work something out with him. I think it's defective, but he told me to put washers between the bar and the sub-frame. Personally I think it's too big of a difference to make up with washers and will decrease the thread engagement of the front bolts too much.





</TD></TR></TABLE>

that one is for EK. You will have to enlarge the hole and use a 1/2inch spacer for the rear subframe bolts so it will clear the cat.


EK and EG are different

 

Are there any special markings on your Type R subframe? (serial no etc)

I got a supposed one for free and would like to verif what it is out of.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Lightnin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are there any special markings on your Type R subframe? (serial no etc)

I got a supposed one for free and would like to verif what it is out of.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I can't tell now since it's installed. I can't be sure, but I would guess they are the same as any other Integra. I did notice that the subframe from the Civic with manual steering was different than the ITR. The passenger side rack mount on the Civic is flat while the ITR had a round depression to hold the rack.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Steady &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

that one is for EK. You will have to enlarge the hole and use a 1/2inch spacer for the rear subframe bolts so it will clear the cat.

EK and EG are different
</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's curious. The guys ad says the bar will fit 88-00 Civics.

 

You should of painted it black.. have fun with them speed bumps