i know i need to replace my mounts but i'm not sure which ones and i dont know how to check. is it easier to just replace them all?

 

i'd replace them all

if one is bad....others are probably on their way out too


and get the polyureathane inserts....or Hasport mounts if u can afford them

 

why do you need to replace them?

do a visual inspection for cracked and torn rubber

 

i'm replacing them because there is a lot of flex in the engine and i'm going through axles every 6months or so, i know that the front right is bad, but people run without those all the time so i'm sure that there must me other ones that need replacing, just dont know which.

 

Q: How do know your axles are bad? Just curious.

 

how are you "going through axles"? are the axles breaking or are the Cv
's tearing. Check for oil leaks, when oil leaks on rubber (same stuff the mount is made of) the rubber deteriorates.

 

To answer your question though :: Just replace them all. They aren't very expensive, and you might as well fix all of them while you're under the car.

 

Are you referring to specifically the 3 torque mounts? Lower left, right, and rear?

Get under the car and inspect them for tears. Removing them isnt difficult, its a few bolts, you can also do that. May as well get the ES insert set while youre at it, you can use them with torn/ripped mounts anyway.

 

it seems like everytime my axles go its a different thing, i've snapped them, i've had them go slowly begining with poping till they seize up, i've had them lock up while driving, i've also gone through a couple sets of boots. I was told by the people at Napa that they wont warranty them anymore unless i replace my engine mounts, i'm sure its a combination of the mounts and that i have my car droped about 3"

 

the rear one from what i hear is a pain in the ***!! nick do you know an easy way to fix it? btw i love my title!
-Scary <---- who loves midgets

 

The rear mount is a pain to get to...I didnt even bother with it.

A few of the ITR guys had a method on popping it in pretty painlessly...lemme see if I can dig that post up...

 

Here you go...from Jack @ P1 Auto

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Yack &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1) jack front of car up
2) remove lower subframe brace (4 bolts)

3) remove all rear tranny mount bolts

4) gently, pull heater control valve up about 2-3 inches towards hood/firewall

5) push rear tranny mount up till it hits HCV (it will still be straddling the rear subframe motor at the very top, but room to fit the mount is there)

6) reverse steps and proceed to kill any and all V8's


It's that easy, no need to remove the strut bar, tranny, header, O2 sensor, half shafts.......etc.....

20 mins and some bloody knuckles.



</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

nice, thanks for the good info, i'll wear gloves tho!

 

Great info...my cars vibrating bad and they told me my motor mounts are wearing out...I need to do that

 

I just switched from ES inserts on the back to Prothane.
I suggest prothane for the rear, no more movement. ES caused movement still.
I love it!

 

Was there ever a point where you didnt have a rear insert in, but did have the lower torque inserts in?

Ive heard that the rear mount causes the most interior vibration...Im wondering if thats common with everyone.