I finally got the mini-me dynoed today. It made 114.8hp and 102.8ft/lbs to the wheels. This is pretty much untuned. I was pretty happy. Here's my set-up:

-stock D16A6 bottom end
-stock D16Z6 head with stock cam
-stock D16A6 intake and exhaust manifolds
-AEM cold air intake
-Greddy 2.25" exhaust with test pipe -no cat
-Fields SFC-Vtec
-stock PM6 ecu

I did a vtec point crossover test with the Fields and found that the optimum point for my set-up was lower than I thought. The graph shows that the point should be 4400rpms. If someone will host it, I will post the graph.

What do ya'll think?


Modified by sicivic at 10:03 PM 4/20/2003

 

not bad...get it tuned right and you should be around 115-120 ....SOHC

 

I hate to sound like an *** but I'm gonna have to just go ahead and say it how I feel.....in no way do I think those numbers are respectable for the money and work involved in a mini me swap, I've seen alot of d16a6 I/H/E graphs with just as much hp and more torque to boot......I'm definatly gonna go zc n/a, anyway how was the hp/tq curve?

 

The car is running the stock header. It would probably be at least 120hp after a good aftermarket header. I'm probably going to get the bisimoto 4-1 header.

The car made peak torque at 4700rpms and peak power at about 6500-6600rpms. I will post the graph if someone will host it.

 

Not bad but like was said, get it tuned. You should find a dyno that has a wide-band o2 sensor to more accurately interpret your air fuel ratio if you tune it yourself. Here are some more mini-me graphs if you want to compare.
http://www.norcalcrx.org/dyno/d.html

 

i say thats pretty damn good numbers. i am going to do a mini-me be done sometime in June probably. so thats good to know they run good.

 

I'm going to go back and have it tuned once I get a fitting for a wide-band welded in.


The blue line is on the high cam the whole time and the red line is on the low cam the whole time. Notice the two lines cross at 4400rpms.

Modified by sicivic at 9:59 PM 4/20/2003


Modified by sicivic at 10:02 PM 4/20/2003


Modified by sicivic at 10:07 PM 4/20/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sicivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did a vtec point crossover test with the Fields and found that the optimum point for my set-up was lower than I thought. The graph shows that the point should be 4400rpms. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have said that the Xover point should be low before. if it's set higher, you can actually feel a lag as the 1st cam fizzles out and the 2nd cam takes over.

Seeing your hp/tq numbers really makes me want to go dyno my car.
a6 block
y8 head/intake/tb/exhaust manifold (modified with a 2 inch collector)
stock cat
2" from the cat back (crappy crush bends) to an even crappier "flow"master muffler.
Spoon vtec controller with the x-over set at 4500-4600 or so.

to the mini-mes

 

i was just wondering how much you guys paid to get your cars tuned??? also whats good things to have on your car besides new ecu, such as fpr, v-afc.. etc etc etc... what do you guys recommend for the mini me swap

 

Pretty good numbers. I like the high/low cam compare. I've found that 5200 is the best cross-over for a Y8 cam, I tested it on a dyno. The header should help a lot, plus using a PG7 should also *** a few ponies too.

Also was that with the cam timing set to the stock location? If you get a cam gear it should help out too. The mini-me advances your cam timing around 2-3 degrees, which improves low end, but will cost you some high end power. I've found that the best cam timing for a Y8 mini-me with a PG7 was with 1.5 degees of retard.

A mini-me is for sure worth the trouble, it costs less than a ZC, you don't have to pull the engine, and it makes as much if not more than a ZC. On the same dyno I tested the mini-mes, I also tested a number of d16a6s and the most any of them made was 110 whp

 

The cam is at the stock timing. When I installed the head, the "top" mark on the Z6 cam gear was up with the TDC mark on the crank pulley lined up. Also, I got the head for $175 and $55 for the Fields. So I'd definitely say it was cheaper than a ZC and my mini-me isn't fully tuned yet. I could probably get close to 120hp once it was tuned.

 

i think you can get more out of it.

bone got 115 whp from a d15b7 with a Si cam, bolt ons, and tuning. all non vtec.

 

nice numbers. now get it tuned

 

I love my minime, a6 block, z6 head, but of course, i swapped to obd1, which made it a tad more than a zc swap, but it was worth it. So much faster. Best thing for the minime swap is a cam though, i have the zex stage 1 cam, and its awsome. Vtec engagment is almost as loud as a b16a, its nice. my traps are around 92mph in teh 1/4, but i could onyl manage a 15.2 at teh time, but my 60's were total crap, no traction, tons of wheel hop. It should nail a 14 this time around, better tires, no more wheel hop. Now i need to put the turbo on.

 

Those numbers are about 20hp better than the two mini-me setups that I've watched dynos of. Must be doing something right

 

i hate to sound like an *** but zc cant handle the abuse . Ive had 3 and grenaded them all.

 

my z6 with skunk2 intake manifold, chikara 4/2/1 header, and generic short ram

121 @7400rpm

 

i have same setup as u almost but i have fields like the other guy and im always moving my fuel and vtec settings. since im in arizona i change altitude alot so im never sure but i like my vtec at 41 to 38. but you should get it tuned. i have a gt2 and its highest reading in michigan was 141. now its around 125 to 120.

 

sorry to bring this thread back from the dead ::hey that rhymes:: I would really like to know if anyone one else had any more dynos to add for the mini-me.

 

seems that ur vtec x-over is supposed to be around 4800 if u look ur graph right

 

To tell the truth, I don't think those are good numbers either. My 300,000+ mile d16a6 gets close to 120hp and 104tq- untuned too.

 

Has any one tried a 89 Integra ECU with the RPM switch??? I see most people using stock Si ECU's and V-AFC..... jus a question...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H.crx-si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hate to sound like an *** but I'm gonna have to just go ahead and say it how I feel.....in no way do I think those numbers are respectable for the money and work involved in a mini me swap, I've seen alot of d16a6 I/H/E graphs with just as much hp and more torque to boot......I'm definatly gonna go zc n/a, anyway how was the hp/tq curve? </TD></TR></TABLE>we did this swap into my friend's 93 Civic LX sedan for under $200, alot of money huh

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by panrahk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i hate to sound like an *** but zc cant handle the abuse . Ive had 3 and grenaded them all.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Maybe u were being retarded and reving them to high?
Redline is there for a reason.
If u abuse the hell about of any motor they will not last

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SmobbinSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To tell the truth, I don't think those are good numbers either. My 300,000+ mile d16a6 gets close to 120hp and 104tq- untuned too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

huh? How is your D16A6 making 120WHP on a dyno if the motor was only rated at like 105HP at the crank from the factory when brand new?


What mods?