Rebuilding Bottom End: What else?
Soon i'm gonna be rebuilding my bottom end w/ stock parts, and I'm just wondering what else I should replace/do. I'm gonna replace rings/pistons, rods, main and rod bearings, head gasket, and prob. seals. My bud that's gonna be helping me says I should send the head off to have the valves reseated and to have the block decked; is that necessary? What else, other than balancing the rotating assembly, should I do while the motor is apart?
Ok, here's the background:
I am a highschool/college student w/ very little money right now, but enough parts and "spare change" to start a little project. Since the only forged rods that are made for the H23 are the expensive Crowers, I can't justify spending THAT much money for a set of rods that are only gonna see ~300hp. SO....I just happen to have the god of motors as a friend. This guy built a 280zx w/ worked stock parts, jammed the wastegate shut, rigged up a custom water injection kit, and took it to Commerce, our local drag strip. He spun through every gear and ran a 10.02, getting kicked out on his first run since he didn't have a roll cage, fire system, etc....He is currently working on his 89 240 w/ a VG30et swap, all done by him; custom motor mounts, custom made turbo mani, custom everything...and worked stock rods/pistons. He's gonna let me use his garage and he's gonna help me rebuild my motor for a boneyard boost setup, to see if this motor is worthy. I am going to use all stock parts, and cryo the pistons and rods, as well as shot-peening the rods. I'm still researching what our stock motor can handle, as far as a turbo goes, but when I'm finished, it should be pushing 7psi street/10-12psi track. Since our rods are the weakest part of our motor, and the first thing to go on my last motor, i'm only worried about those and the fuel system. Since I'm gonna be tearing down the motor, I'd like to know what (cheap) things would be necessary to do. Would I really need to send the head off to have the valves reseated? How about the block being decked? The motor has 115k on it, and compression #'s are ~160 across the board, so it is in need of a rebuild anyways for me to do anything other than bolt-ons to it.
I am a highschool/college student w/ very little money right now, but enough parts and "spare change" to start a little project. Since the only forged rods that are made for the H23 are the expensive Crowers, I can't justify spending THAT much money for a set of rods that are only gonna see ~300hp. SO....I just happen to have the god of motors as a friend. This guy built a 280zx w/ worked stock parts, jammed the wastegate shut, rigged up a custom water injection kit, and took it to Commerce, our local drag strip. He spun through every gear and ran a 10.02, getting kicked out on his first run since he didn't have a roll cage, fire system, etc....He is currently working on his 89 240 w/ a VG30et swap, all done by him; custom motor mounts, custom made turbo mani, custom everything...and worked stock rods/pistons. He's gonna let me use his garage and he's gonna help me rebuild my motor for a boneyard boost setup, to see if this motor is worthy. I am going to use all stock parts, and cryo the pistons and rods, as well as shot-peening the rods. I'm still researching what our stock motor can handle, as far as a turbo goes, but when I'm finished, it should be pushing 7psi street/10-12psi track. Since our rods are the weakest part of our motor, and the first thing to go on my last motor, i'm only worried about those and the fuel system. Since I'm gonna be tearing down the motor, I'd like to know what (cheap) things would be necessary to do. Would I really need to send the head off to have the valves reseated? How about the block being decked? The motor has 115k on it, and compression #'s are ~160 across the board, so it is in need of a rebuild anyways for me to do anything other than bolt-ons to it.
first off, the first thing to go on h-series motors is the ringlands and not the rods. Second i think it is pointless to rebuild your motor with stock parts just to boost 10-12 lbs on a junkyard turbo setup at the track. That's just a waste of money. If tuned right you could probable get away with the 10-12 lbs at the track without rebuilding it with more stock parts.
Not with rings that are about to go bye-bye
My motor wouldn't handle boost in its current form. And w/ the H23, the rods and main bearings are the first things to go. I've never really seen a case where an H23 blew b/c the ring lands went first. H22's tend to blow them when spraying, or sometimes boosting, but I've never seen an H22 spin a bearing, and very few have thrown rods. The only thing I'm worried about w/ my motor is the compression #'s. It's 160 across the board. It blows oil like a *****. There's no way in heck it would last long at all boosted, or even if i sprayed. I figure while i'm inside, i might as well replace what needs to be: rings, pistons, rods, and bearings. I also figured that it couldn't hurt to work over the rods a bit...
And how is 10psi of boost a waste of money on a stock motor?! If it can handle it, then I'm gonna do it! For under $600, I'm going to have a full turbo setup, boneyard style that will push numbers comparable to the $2000+ kits. For another ~$600-1000, I'm gonna have a fresh motor that I don't have to ever worry about. How is 250-300hp daily a waste of money ?
My motor wouldn't handle boost in its current form. And w/ the H23, the rods and main bearings are the first things to go. I've never really seen a case where an H23 blew b/c the ring lands went first. H22's tend to blow them when spraying, or sometimes boosting, but I've never seen an H22 spin a bearing, and very few have thrown rods. The only thing I'm worried about w/ my motor is the compression #'s. It's 160 across the board. It blows oil like a *****. There's no way in heck it would last long at all boosted, or even if i sprayed. I figure while i'm inside, i might as well replace what needs to be: rings, pistons, rods, and bearings. I also figured that it couldn't hurt to work over the rods a bit...
And how is 10psi of boost a waste of money on a stock motor?! If it can handle it, then I'm gonna do it! For under $600, I'm going to have a full turbo setup, boneyard style that will push numbers comparable to the $2000+ kits. For another ~$600-1000, I'm gonna have a fresh motor that I don't have to ever worry about. How is 250-300hp daily a waste of money ?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not with rings that are about to go bye-bye
My motor wouldn't handle boost in its current form. And w/ the H23, the rods and main bearings are the first things to go. I've never really seen a case where an H23 blew b/c the ring lands went first. H22's tend to blow them when spraying, or sometimes boosting, but I've never seen an H22 spin a bearing, and very few have thrown rods. The only thing I'm worried about w/ my motor is the compression #'s. It's 160 across the board. It blows oil like a *****. There's no way in heck it would last long at all boosted, or even if i sprayed. I figure while i'm inside, i might as well replace what needs to be: rings, pistons, rods, and bearings. I also figured that it couldn't hurt to work over the rods a bit...
And how is 10psi of boost a waste of money on a stock motor?! If it can handle it, then I'm gonna do it! For under $600, I'm going to have a full turbo setup, boneyard style that will push numbers comparable to the $2000+ kits. For another ~$600-1000, I'm gonna have a fresh motor that I don't have to ever worry about. How is 250-300hp daily a waste of money ?
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Sorry i don't see you making 250-300 whp on a junk yard setup. especially since you'll probable be running a small t3 that will run outta juice trying to mak 300whp. Also you'll have to boost more than 10 to try to get that 250 mark. What are you goin to use for manifold and fuel setup??
My motor wouldn't handle boost in its current form. And w/ the H23, the rods and main bearings are the first things to go. I've never really seen a case where an H23 blew b/c the ring lands went first. H22's tend to blow them when spraying, or sometimes boosting, but I've never seen an H22 spin a bearing, and very few have thrown rods. The only thing I'm worried about w/ my motor is the compression #'s. It's 160 across the board. It blows oil like a *****. There's no way in heck it would last long at all boosted, or even if i sprayed. I figure while i'm inside, i might as well replace what needs to be: rings, pistons, rods, and bearings. I also figured that it couldn't hurt to work over the rods a bit...
And how is 10psi of boost a waste of money on a stock motor?! If it can handle it, then I'm gonna do it! For under $600, I'm going to have a full turbo setup, boneyard style that will push numbers comparable to the $2000+ kits. For another ~$600-1000, I'm gonna have a fresh motor that I don't have to ever worry about. How is 250-300hp daily a waste of money ?
</TD></TR></TABLE>Sorry i don't see you making 250-300 whp on a junk yard setup. especially since you'll probable be running a small t3 that will run outta juice trying to mak 300whp. Also you'll have to boost more than 10 to try to get that 250 mark. What are you goin to use for manifold and fuel setup??
I think your power goals are a little high. Not impossible, just going to be very hard to attain IMO. You need a good sized turbo(don't think a str8 t3 will do it), excellent fuel delivery and tuning, and a good flowing manifold.
I have a friend running a little over 300 horse on a junkyard turbo setup. Not saying it is easy but you can do it. By the way he is useing a Cummins turbo
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