My 2001 GS-R Build-up. Questions/Comments/Suggestions?
Ok guys and gals, I am close to paying off my car in a few months, so I am beggining to put some ideas together on what I would like to do to my car. I am not looking to race (drag/track) my car in any way in the future. I am looking to make my car a nice canyon carver, but maintain diveability and not have to pay major $$$ to keep it running in the long run.
Here's what I have so far (in no particualr order)...
-Engine-
1. Valve Adjustment
2. New Spark Plugs And Wires
3. Type-R Cams
4. Valve Port & Polishing
5. Exhaust
6. Tuning
Note: Yes I would like to add a snail (turbo) to my car, but living in California, I just don't have to time, money, and knowledge for one. Plus, I want to be able to pass smog when it comes time for it.
-Transmission-
1. Clutch Upgrade
2. Type-R Limited Slip Differential
3. Transmission Fluid Flush
-Suspension-
1. Springs & Shocks Upgrade (Not looking to just make my car lower, but better performing/less roll, but not a real harsh ride).
2. Brake Pad & Rotor Upgrade (That will fit under a GS-R Rim)
3. Tires (Durability/Performance)
-Cosmetic/Appearance-
1. Carbon Fiber Hood
2. GPS Navigation System
Suggestions/Recommendations are welcome...I have no idea what brands would be good for what I would like to do. Brands/cost of install/availability are also encouraged when making a suggestion or reccomendation on a part or modification. Also, is there something that I may have overlooked in making my car better performing?
Here's what I have already done to the car.
Drop in K&N air filter, Type-R Front and Rear Strut Bars, Type-R Rear Sway Bar, Phillips 4100k H.I.D. Lights, Type-R Lip, and underbody spoiler sides and rear.
Thanks for your help.
Here's a link for pics of my car so far...https://honda-tech.com/zerouser...95517
Here's what I have so far (in no particualr order)...
-Engine-
1. Valve Adjustment
2. New Spark Plugs And Wires
3. Type-R Cams
4. Valve Port & Polishing
5. Exhaust
6. Tuning
Note: Yes I would like to add a snail (turbo) to my car, but living in California, I just don't have to time, money, and knowledge for one. Plus, I want to be able to pass smog when it comes time for it.
-Transmission-
1. Clutch Upgrade
2. Type-R Limited Slip Differential
3. Transmission Fluid Flush
-Suspension-
1. Springs & Shocks Upgrade (Not looking to just make my car lower, but better performing/less roll, but not a real harsh ride).
2. Brake Pad & Rotor Upgrade (That will fit under a GS-R Rim)
3. Tires (Durability/Performance)
-Cosmetic/Appearance-
1. Carbon Fiber Hood
2. GPS Navigation System
Suggestions/Recommendations are welcome...I have no idea what brands would be good for what I would like to do. Brands/cost of install/availability are also encouraged when making a suggestion or reccomendation on a part or modification. Also, is there something that I may have overlooked in making my car better performing?
Here's what I have already done to the car.
Drop in K&N air filter, Type-R Front and Rear Strut Bars, Type-R Rear Sway Bar, Phillips 4100k H.I.D. Lights, Type-R Lip, and underbody spoiler sides and rear.
Thanks for your help.
Here's a link for pics of my car so far...https://honda-tech.com/zerouser...95517
Sounds like you know what you wanna do with your set up. I would go with a little more aggressive cams if you plan on doing some head work (might as well build the bottom end also while you have the head off). If you're worried about california emissions, have you considered a greddy turbo kit or jackson racing supercharger? With Hondata tuning, those kits are very potent.
sounds like a sweet setup....but a lot of money too.
you'd probably be more happy just buying an M3 haha.
I'd say get a JSRC...or get Skunk Stage1 cams and some beefier pistons.
everything else looks good.
you'd probably be more happy just buying an M3 haha.
I'd say get a JSRC...or get Skunk Stage1 cams and some beefier pistons.
everything else looks good.
if ur gonna take the head off just send the block out and have it sleeved then bore it to 84mm and throw in some 12:1 endyn roller's and ctr cams up top
I recommend:
itr full cat back exhaust
Greddy 6psi turbo non intercooled w/ hondata
ACT XXSS clutch with streetlite 12.5lb flywheel
NeoSynthetic MTF
Tein SS with EDFC
Python 4 piston calipers fits 15" rims
Kumho 712's
why do u want GPS?
& everything is LEGAL
itr full cat back exhaust
Greddy 6psi turbo non intercooled w/ hondata
ACT XXSS clutch with streetlite 12.5lb flywheel
NeoSynthetic MTF
Tein SS with EDFC
Python 4 piston calipers fits 15" rims
Kumho 712's
why do u want GPS?
& everything is LEGAL
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2Slow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I recommend:
itr full cat back exhaust
Greddy 6psi turbo non intercooled w/ hondata
ACT XXSS clutch with streetlite 12.5lb flywheel
NeoSynthetic MTF
Tein SS with EDFC
Python 4 piston calipers fits 15" rims
Kumho 712's
why do u want GPS?
& everything is LEGAL</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the reccommendations. I would like to slap a turbo on my car...but I don't have the money for that. I would like to keep my engine setup simple because I still want to get good gas mileage. And I was thinking GPS because I do like the feature of having it on trips.
itr full cat back exhaust
Greddy 6psi turbo non intercooled w/ hondata
ACT XXSS clutch with streetlite 12.5lb flywheel
NeoSynthetic MTF
Tein SS with EDFC
Python 4 piston calipers fits 15" rims
Kumho 712's
why do u want GPS?
& everything is LEGAL</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the reccommendations. I would like to slap a turbo on my car...but I don't have the money for that. I would like to keep my engine setup simple because I still want to get good gas mileage. And I was thinking GPS because I do like the feature of having it on trips.
I have gone through very similar buildups before, and im telling you, when the clutch is out, do a flywheel swap (if only a type-r flywheel). Also, upgrade your valvetrian with the ITR cams, and make sure your not overcamming your engine. I dont think you are, but im not in the mood to do dynamic compression calculations to make sure.
Uhm....you need to decide on powerband location before you start to buy parts, then purchase accordingly. If you "lego build" your engine and dont think about the big picture, your GOING to end up buying the same part twice due to the fact one doesnt suite the other. Trust me, its gay, and expensive. Look into a good header, then size the exhuast to the collector diameter, and base the header on power location. If you know where you want the meat of your power, I can help you decide what parts to look into.
Uhm....you need to decide on powerband location before you start to buy parts, then purchase accordingly. If you "lego build" your engine and dont think about the big picture, your GOING to end up buying the same part twice due to the fact one doesnt suite the other. Trust me, its gay, and expensive. Look into a good header, then size the exhuast to the collector diameter, and base the header on power location. If you know where you want the meat of your power, I can help you decide what parts to look into.
-Engine-
1. Valve Adjustment
2. New Spark Plugs And Wires
3. Type-R Cams
4. Valve Port & Polishing (Necessary?)
5. Exhaust
6. Header
7. Tuning
-Transmission-
1. Clutch Upgrade
2. Type-R Limited Slip Differential
3. Type-R Flywheel
Ok, keeping the parts that I have listed above, and trying to keep my car running optimally without doing any major work (no major power band changes?), what brands would you recommend?
You have to remember, my car is still kind of a baby (25,000 miles), and I am an extreme newbie when it comes to this stuff (tuning). So I have no idea on where to really begin when it comes to the engine.
Thanks for your help.
1. Valve Adjustment
2. New Spark Plugs And Wires
3. Type-R Cams
4. Valve Port & Polishing (Necessary?)
5. Exhaust
6. Header
7. Tuning
-Transmission-
1. Clutch Upgrade
2. Type-R Limited Slip Differential
3. Type-R Flywheel
Ok, keeping the parts that I have listed above, and trying to keep my car running optimally without doing any major work (no major power band changes?), what brands would you recommend?
You have to remember, my car is still kind of a baby (25,000 miles), and I am an extreme newbie when it comes to this stuff (tuning). So I have no idea on where to really begin when it comes to the engine.
Thanks for your help.
u gotta ask yourself what do u want your car to do... and how much are you willing to spend...excluding the turbo from my list of suggestions I think you would have a good setup just add suspension n a VAFC n a FPR w/ alot of dyno tuning
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2001 Integra GSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I am looking to make my car a nice canyon carver, but maintain diveability and not have to pay major $$$ to keep it running in the long run.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
sounds like you should buy a type R
</TD></TR></TABLE>
sounds like you should buy a type R
I recomend:
AEM GSR CAI $250
ITR cams $600
Mugen headgasket $100 -you increase quench area and raise your static compression a little.
OEM plugs $65 -no wires
JDM ITR header w/heatsheilds-so it looks stock $500
APEXi VAFC $350
CArsound 2.5" cat $250
GEt a custom 2.5" mandrel bent exaust $cheaper than anything else
Leave your tranny alone until your clutch is shot.
BRakes: Brembo OE rotors with Poterfeild R4s pads
Suspension: ITR springs, KYB AGX shocks $good choice for the money
...just my $.02
AEM GSR CAI $250
ITR cams $600
Mugen headgasket $100 -you increase quench area and raise your static compression a little.
OEM plugs $65 -no wires
JDM ITR header w/heatsheilds-so it looks stock $500
APEXi VAFC $350
CArsound 2.5" cat $250
GEt a custom 2.5" mandrel bent exaust $cheaper than anything else
Leave your tranny alone until your clutch is shot.
BRakes: Brembo OE rotors with Poterfeild R4s pads
Suspension: ITR springs, KYB AGX shocks $good choice for the money
...just my $.02
while you got the tranny open putting the diff in, u might as well add a JDM OEM 4.785 final drive. if u drive the car on the freeway alot, slap an LS 5th into it. U get awesome acceleration and good gas mileage on the freeway.
As for a header, id got with a JDM 4-1 (or a DC 4-1) with a highflow cat. finish it off with a nice quite stock looking exhaust, like an RSR or Mugen.
For clutch id go with an ACT and flywheel, Clutchmaster, Toda, Comptech or Fidanza, all the same ****.
As for a header, id got with a JDM 4-1 (or a DC 4-1) with a highflow cat. finish it off with a nice quite stock looking exhaust, like an RSR or Mugen.
For clutch id go with an ACT and flywheel, Clutchmaster, Toda, Comptech or Fidanza, all the same ****.
That sounds good. Good luck with it all.
I'm trying to finish my 2.0L vtec project. I'm looking for a damn B16A or Type R head and GSR crank.
Hopefully by fall mine will be finished. I'm still toying with the idea of 12.5 : 1 compression and running like a thick *** head gasket to control it. But I'm not sure.
The block is getting some Darton iron very soon.
I'm trying to finish my 2.0L vtec project. I'm looking for a damn B16A or Type R head and GSR crank.
Hopefully by fall mine will be finished. I'm still toying with the idea of 12.5 : 1 compression and running like a thick *** head gasket to control it. But I'm not sure.
The block is getting some Darton iron very soon.
Drop the Type R tranny, gps, carbon fiber hood, and you're well on your way to a greddy kit. For me, if I didn't have anything else on my car, I'd have a turbo...it's pure happiness.
With the "R" cams, you WILL be shifting the powerband slightly upward. Its not going to require a higher redline, but the dual springs arent a bad idea. If you are taking off the head to install the cams/springs, then youll want a thinner head gasket to milk out extra compression. As for brands, I think youll find that other peoples opinions about brands arent going to help you. You need to get information about that companies product, then decide which one is best for your goals. Daily drivabilty is an issue, so youll want to shy away from crazy spec race parts, and go for a middle of the road approach with your specs. I know it sounds really dull, but when all the parts are suited well to one another, the result will be facotry like drivabililty and great, usable power.
Thanks for everyones help. You have all given me great ideas.
For now I think I am going to do the following...
-Engine-
1. Valve Adjustment ($75.00?)
2. New Spark Plugs And Wires (Check the old ones first to see if I need new one yet).
Nothing else major on the engine yet. I may be leaving California in about a year when I get married...so we'll see what happens. I may be asking you guys help on my turbo after all. And I don't think I am going to install an AEM CAI on my car...loss of what little torque I have would suck.
-Transmission-
1. Clutch Upgrade (when I need to replace the clutch, number 2 and 3 will follow).
2. Type-R Limited Slip Differential
3. Lightened Flywheel
4. Transmission Fluid Flush
I am not going to mess with my gears or final drive. I already get about 36mpg driving on the highway with the AC on, and I am happy with my car's acceleration.
-Suspension-
1. Springs & Shocks Upgrade (I'll have to start doing my research on this).
2. Brake Pad & Rotor Upgrade (Definately needed soon, I think my front drivers side rotor is slightly warped).
3. Tires (Durability/Performance)
-Cosmetic/Appearance-
1. Carbon Fiber Hood (I need a replacement hood because my stock hood was dented by a stray flying golf ball. Let's just say, my girlfriend lives near a golf course, some guy doesn't know how to hit straight, and now my hood has a dent in it.
2. GPS Navigation System (I like the conveinence of having GPS. It's a nice luxury item/feature in my friends IS300-that we use quite often).
Thanks again for your help!
For now I think I am going to do the following...
-Engine-
1. Valve Adjustment ($75.00?)
2. New Spark Plugs And Wires (Check the old ones first to see if I need new one yet).
Nothing else major on the engine yet. I may be leaving California in about a year when I get married...so we'll see what happens. I may be asking you guys help on my turbo after all. And I don't think I am going to install an AEM CAI on my car...loss of what little torque I have would suck.
-Transmission-
1. Clutch Upgrade (when I need to replace the clutch, number 2 and 3 will follow).
2. Type-R Limited Slip Differential
3. Lightened Flywheel
4. Transmission Fluid Flush
I am not going to mess with my gears or final drive. I already get about 36mpg driving on the highway with the AC on, and I am happy with my car's acceleration.
-Suspension-
1. Springs & Shocks Upgrade (I'll have to start doing my research on this).
2. Brake Pad & Rotor Upgrade (Definately needed soon, I think my front drivers side rotor is slightly warped).
3. Tires (Durability/Performance)
-Cosmetic/Appearance-
1. Carbon Fiber Hood (I need a replacement hood because my stock hood was dented by a stray flying golf ball. Let's just say, my girlfriend lives near a golf course, some guy doesn't know how to hit straight, and now my hood has a dent in it.
2. GPS Navigation System (I like the conveinence of having GPS. It's a nice luxury item/feature in my friends IS300-that we use quite often).
Thanks again for your help!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsteggy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like you should buy a type R</TD></TR></TABLE>
I thought about buying a Type-R, and I even had 3 chances to buy one, but...
1. I knew that I would never use the car to it's full potential, or what it was made for (racing).
2. I like leather seating.
3. I like my moonroof.
4. I really like my cruise control.
5. I am not a Type-R enthusiast (see number 1).
6. I didn't like the color yellow...high visibility=thief attractor.
7. I didn't wnat higher insurance rates and car payments.
8. The Type-R just wasn't for me. Why own a car that I didn't like. Someone else can enjoy it more than I would/could (see number 1).
Ah well.
I thought about buying a Type-R, and I even had 3 chances to buy one, but...
1. I knew that I would never use the car to it's full potential, or what it was made for (racing).
2. I like leather seating.
3. I like my moonroof.
4. I really like my cruise control.
5. I am not a Type-R enthusiast (see number 1).
6. I didn't like the color yellow...high visibility=thief attractor.
7. I didn't wnat higher insurance rates and car payments.
8. The Type-R just wasn't for me. Why own a car that I didn't like. Someone else can enjoy it more than I would/could (see number 1).
Ah well.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2_Integra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">off topic, but how do u like ur 4100k HID's? im thinking about getting them too but i heard u can see the yellowish tint?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I love my Phillips H.I.D. headlights.
Here is some more information on them...

My setup is as follows...
Stock headlight housing (Not modified in any way).
Phillips ballasts.
Phillips H.I.D. D2S bulbs (4100k).
Upgraded stock headlight fuses to 20 Amp (this is a must!).
Output is exactly the same as my friends 2002 Lexus IS300 with H.I.D. headlights - Deep blue when you first turn on the headlights, and then bright white after a few seconds. It looks identical to the output of any other 4100k Phillips H.I.D. Lighting system on the road. There is no "yellow" color or tint seen from my headlights.
Very easy to mount in the engine compartment.
Bought mine on a group-buy last year from Trevor at http://www.visualdynamics.ca.
I love my Phillips H.I.D. headlights.
Here is some more information on them...

My setup is as follows...
Stock headlight housing (Not modified in any way).
Phillips ballasts.
Phillips H.I.D. D2S bulbs (4100k).
Upgraded stock headlight fuses to 20 Amp (this is a must!).
Output is exactly the same as my friends 2002 Lexus IS300 with H.I.D. headlights - Deep blue when you first turn on the headlights, and then bright white after a few seconds. It looks identical to the output of any other 4100k Phillips H.I.D. Lighting system on the road. There is no "yellow" color or tint seen from my headlights.
Very easy to mount in the engine compartment.
Bought mine on a group-buy last year from Trevor at http://www.visualdynamics.ca.
-Transmission-
1. Clutch Upgrade (when I need to replace the clutch, number 2 and 3 will follow).
2. Type-R Limited Slip Differential
3. Lightened Flywheel
4. Transmission Fluid Flush
How much would all of this cost (roughly) - parts and labor?
1. Clutch Upgrade (when I need to replace the clutch, number 2 and 3 will follow).
2. Type-R Limited Slip Differential
3. Lightened Flywheel
4. Transmission Fluid Flush
How much would all of this cost (roughly) - parts and labor?
I did that route plus more other goodies.
i say fug it, and buy an ITR
the itr has most of the other mods, and it will be closer to stock. You also wont have to pour as much money into it.
If you like projects and dont mind spending money that you will never see again, then keep modding your gsr. otherwise get an itr and start modding from a higher level of performance
You also forgot to bigger calipers and rotors for brake upgrade. the itr already has factory killer brakes.
i would just get 5 lug swap and call it a day if you are going to keep your car
i say fug it, and buy an ITR
the itr has most of the other mods, and it will be closer to stock. You also wont have to pour as much money into it.
If you like projects and dont mind spending money that you will never see again, then keep modding your gsr. otherwise get an itr and start modding from a higher level of performance
You also forgot to bigger calipers and rotors for brake upgrade. the itr already has factory killer brakes.
i would just get 5 lug swap and call it a day if you are going to keep your car
i say .. swap out the head and sell it.. stick a type R head on there and buy a JRsc and do the regular bolt ons..... IHE and 1 dyno tuning should make you happy or just stick type R stuff in the head and do the JRSC with the LSD forget about the gps ...


