okay guys i wanted a decent sounding system for around $400 and some of you audio folks would just outright laugh at that figure but i'm still trying to keep the cost down. i already have a 12" JL w6 and an alpine headunit. with what money i have left now in the bank (~550) i want to get a set of front components and rear coaxials, as well as an amp for my JL and an amp for my mids & highs. what are your suggestions?

so far what i had in mind was

mb quart rsc 216 components front and rear = 300
OR infinity kappa front components and rear coaxial = 250

crunch 150x4 amp - 70
??? 300-400w mono amp for JL ~ 150?

HELP a brother out guys...
TIA
-demitri

 

spend more on front speakers, spend less on rear. trust me on this one...more questions? IM me of you have AIM.

 

For a system that you will truly be happy with for $500, get a nice set of front components. and a 50x4 amp. So you have 50 watts for the fronts, and 100-200(depends on amp) for the sub. Run the stock rears off the hu. Trust me you will not regret it.

 

May I suggest this amp http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/ROC750X

Almost 100 watts for your components and 375 for your sub

And it is on sale!

 

thanks for the tips, anyone else?

 

Follow Vteg's advice.

 

it wouldnt hurt to get a 4 channel amp, you could run all 4 speakers from an amp...and a 50x4 would do...you could run em off the HU but you might well run em off the amp, just adjust your crossovers so that the fronts are a little bit clearer than the rear, or you could have the front set at high-pass and the rear set on mid-range...thats how i have mines...

good choice of your HU and your sub...

 

oh and one more thing...good choice of your mids but i'd get something less expensive and use the extra money on a good amp...those are good mids...but just pricey in my opinion---but if you have the money just get em...

 

Buy a 5 channel amp, and buy the speakers later. Even your factory speakers will sound better amplified. The more power you send to a speaker doesn't mean its just going to be louder, it will sound better. Get the amp....worry about speakers later.

 

Buy a set of MB quart RSC 216 ($125) and a set of MB Quart DTC 169 ($100). Then buy a Soundstream Reference 705s (~$350). Voila. BTW these prices are from Ebay.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">spend more on front speakers, spend less on rear. trust me on this one...more questions? IM me of you have AIM.</TD></TR></TABLE>

why is it better to get more expensive front speakers than rear? im thinking about replacing my stock speakers soon and i'd like some advice too

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by i &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

why is it better to get more expensive front speakers than rear? im thinking about replacing my stock speakers soon and i'd like some advice too </TD></TR></TABLE>


vteg, rcurrely55, etc...u guys know what to say..i gotta go look at houses now..take over

 

We should collaborate on a FAQ.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by i &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
why is it better to get more expensive front speakers than rear? im thinking about replacing my stock speakers soon and i'd like some advice too </TD></TR></TABLE>

Because we say so

Let me put it this way. When you listen to your stereo at home, do you intentionally try to position your speakers so that the sound comes from behind you? My personal theory is that cars have rear speakers because of cost only. Two speakers on a stock head will not make much sound. Four speakers with the same power per channel will add up to 6db more volume. To get that same 6db out of a pair of speakers you will need to quadruple amp power, and use speakers that can handle it.

*pushing soap box back under desk*

To simulate live performance you want to have the most sound coming from the front. You really only need two channels and a sub. With 200 total watts to a pair of components, you will not even be concerned about more volume or wanting rears. That is a lot of power when it is concentrated above sub range and less than 10 feet from you.

My last point, I think, speakers are the biggest cause of distortion in a system if everything else is descent, so get the best you can afford.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by i &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

why is it better to get more expensive front speakers than rear? im thinking about replacing my stock speakers soon and i'd like some advice too </TD></TR></TABLE>

There is no need for rear speakers unless you attenuate them so you can only hear them while sitting in the back seat. I haven't had rear speakers in my past 3 cars......

 

I have Infinity Kappa components in the front, and mid-woofers in the back of my Teg. They put out nice clean mids and highs. What kind of Alpine HU do you have? The newer ones are high output (60x4), so if you have one of these, I don't think you would need to have two amps. Just one to drive your sub.

 

hmm..so i could actually just get two front speakers, amplify them and leave my rear ones stock? cause that would save a bunch of money, not only on the speakers but with the additional amp. thanks for the tip!

 

i have the cda 7875, it is 60x4 but the unit gets very hot and sometimes would stop playing if i let it play a song with continuous mids at high volume. i've only encounter the above problem twice and i don't want to encounter it again, that's why i want to get a separate amp to drive the mids and highs.

vteg,
i have a 12" JL W6 with wiring option of 3 or 12 ohms. the 750x cannot be bridged to handle power under 4 ohm. what do you suggest to get then? i would get the 750x but i don't think it will sound right, and it will damage the amp. i just hate the way JL made their coils at 6 ohm. if you wanted a 2 ohm load you would have to buy 3 and a 4 ohm load, 6 subs...that's outrageous.

 

vteg... he knows his ****, listen to him, u cant go wrong but IMO, i would save up more money and go for the gold!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by i &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm..so i could actually just get two front speakers, amplify them and leave my rear ones stock? cause that would save a bunch of money, not only on the speakers but with the additional amp. thanks for the tip!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes. You could go with 2 quality front speakers and not worry about rear fill. I think the people in the front should not even hear rear fill. Rear speakers are made for people who sit in the back. Is it really important to you? I have components in the front of my HB and the people in the back tell me it sounds pretty clear.

 

You need a seperate mono amp that can hit 2 ohms to get that working. A pair of amps will cost you close to 500. The 300/4 can be bridged into 3 ohms, but it is too much for your budget. Maybe you should just get components and a sub amp for now, and buy another amp later. Or as someone else said get the amps first, and components second. I ran my stock speakers for 2 months off my 300/4. If you listen when the speakers start to cry for help, they will live.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SSBP DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">vteg,
i have a 12" JL W6 with wiring option of 3 or 12 ohms. the 750x cannot be bridged to handle power under 4 ohm. what do you suggest to get then? i would get the 750x but i don't think it will sound right, and it will damage the amp. i just hate the way JL made their coils at 6 ohm. if you wanted a 2 ohm load you would have to buy 3 and a 4 ohm load, 6 subs...that's outrageous.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Any class a/b amp that's worth a crap will play a 3 ohm mono load if it's worth a ****....I wouldn't try it with that Fosgate.

 

"The 300/4 can be bridged into 3 ohms, but it is too much for your budget."

which amp is this?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SSBP DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"The 300/4 can be bridged into 3 ohms, but it is too much for your budget."

which amp is this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

JL audio

 

I really like the specs on this amp, but the price is probably rediculous. http://www.jlaudio.com/press/4504_Intro.html

Edit: whats the deal with channels 3 and 4 though. What can you do with one 300w output (most likely going to be used for subs), and one 150w output?