going from air/fuel ratio gauge to a EGT

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Old Apr 16, 2003 | 09:09 PM
  #1  
b16ahybrid's Avatar
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From: W.A
Default going from air/fuel ratio gauge to a EGT

Teach me, I'm ready to learn.
Where's a good location to mount the sensor?
Whats a good gauge (make)
whats a good temp for a safe runing engine?(under boost and out of boost)
basically I don't know much about the EGT so share anything you know about them.Where is a good place to get one?
Reason being is that i'm sick of my light show air/fuel gauge. It's yet to provide me with any useful info to monitoring the engine. When i was runing extreemly rich it showed slighlty rich, when i was runing a good air/fuel ratio it showed really rich...it's to inconsistant. I want something a little more accurate without spending much money. So Is a EGT for me?
I've heard that they are more valulable then a air/fuel ratio gauge ran off of a stock o2 sensor. Inform me..thanks
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Old Apr 16, 2003 | 09:16 PM
  #2  
boosted hybrid's Avatar
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Default Re: going from air/fuel ratio gauge to a EGT (b16ahybrid)

I have mine mounted on a side gauge pillar.
I prefer the greddy 52mm egt gauge for both the price, quality and accuracy.
Prefered temp cruising is around 550-600 celsius, and WOT/Boost is 700-900 celsius.
I purchased mine through ks motorsports.

The egt is useful to me when tuning partially. The egt's go up I either have to little fuel, or to little timing. If the egt's are to lower I either have to much fuel or to much timing. I shoot for the happy medium. I pretty much only focus on the egt gauge when I am done tuning the air/fuel and timing maps on the dyno. If the egt figures are close to what I specified then everything is good. I think for the most part they are essential if you are doing alot of highway running, or spending along time in boost. This is the best representation of what your engine is seeing as far as heat coming out of the combustion chamber, and can save the life of your engine if you see the temps rising to much/quickly.
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Old Apr 16, 2003 | 09:38 PM
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Default Re: going from air/fuel ratio gauge to a EGT (boosted hybrid)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted hybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have mine mounted on a side gauge pillar.
I prefer the greddy 52mm egt gauge for both the price, quality and accuracy.
Prefered temp cruising is around 550-600 celsius, and WOT/Boost is 700-900 celsius.
I purchased mine through ks motorsports.

The egt is useful to me when tuning partially. The egt's go up I either have to little fuel, or to little timing. If the egt's are to lower I either have to much fuel or to much timing. I shoot for the happy medium. I pretty much only focus on the egt gauge when I am done tuning the air/fuel and timing maps on the dyno. If the egt figures are close to what I specified then everything is good. I think for the most part they are essential if you are doing alot of highway running, or spending along time in boost. This is the best representation of what your engine is seeing as far as heat coming out of the combustion chamber, and can save the life of your engine if you see the temps rising to much/quickly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks
few quick questions Where to mount the sensor (in dp or manifold)..
How much do they gererally run? decent price i should expect to pay?
I do a lot of highway driving is it common for the egt to be higher with highway driving?
Last one...
I had my car tuned on a dyno, my airfuel ratio is between 12.0 and 12.5 in boost (hack crap)..anyways my air/fuel ratio gauge read about 2 bars into the green (i always glance at it to get a rough est of how the engine is doing). Well i recently installed a boost timing retard and set it about .75 degree per psi (rough est again)..well today on my way home from work (freeway) plastic back got stuck under my car so i pulled over to remove it, well pulling back onto the freeway i got on it to get up to speed, well i noticed that the air/fuel ratio was reading in the stoich..it's never done this before..
1: the timing is the only change i've made. You said to little timing will cause higher egt so could this cause my gauge to read leaner?
2: I also noticed that it reads leaner after a few min. of highway driving....is that normal?
Sorry for all the questions but i'm just trying to learn what i can before i spend any money...these are all probably common knowledge things but i just want to verify.....thanks for your help
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Old Apr 16, 2003 | 09:43 PM
  #4  
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From: Bloomington, IN
Default Re: going from air/fuel ratio gauge to a EGT (b16ahybrid)

you want to mount it on the collector, or you can put it on one of the runners (whichever is the hottest, im not sure what is on honda's)

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Old Apr 16, 2003 | 09:46 PM
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Default Re: going from air/fuel ratio gauge to a EGT (gritsak)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gritsak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you want to mount it on the collector, or you can put it on one of the runners (whichever is the hottest, im not sure what is on honda's)

</TD></TR></TABLE>

So one of the runners on the manifold whichever is hottest. I have a drag manifold so the runners are short.Thanks
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Old Apr 16, 2003 | 09:53 PM
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Default Re: going from air/fuel ratio gauge to a EGT (b16ahybrid)

The sensor probe location is critical for accurate readings. You want to place the probe 1" from the head on the runner of the turbo manifold. Runner #3 I believe is the hottest, so that is where you'll want to drill and tap the probe.

I paid 135.00 for the greddy.
Highway driving is the only true steady state conditions that your engine will experience unless you are idling. Your egt's should be the lowest around 60-70 mph.

Your air/fuel gauge is so inaccurate. They are focused on a narrowband sensor, which only reads stoich or 14.7:1 air/fuel accurately. If your engine is operating outside that range (which it should in boost) then the gauge is worthless. The only air/fuel gauge worth having is a wideband set-up like the tech edge.

The egt and air/fuel are independent readings from one another, meaning that the air/fuel readings have no affect on the egt readings from your car. Like i said before the gauge is so inaccurate that its not telling you any worthwhile information.
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Old Apr 17, 2003 | 06:45 AM
  #7  
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From: W.A
Default Re: going from air/fuel ratio gauge to a EGT (boosted hybrid)

Thanks for the info ......Looks like i will be buying a EGT here real soon
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Old Apr 17, 2003 | 09:07 AM
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From: not canada
Default Re: going from air/fuel ratio gauge to a EGT (b16ahybrid)

not trying to hijack b16ahybrid's thread, but i was wondering if you should run both the EGT gauge and a a/f gauge like the techedge. i have the techedge, but i am wondering if i need an EGT gauge as well.

thanks and sorry for the semi-OT post.
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Old Apr 17, 2003 | 09:19 AM
  #9  
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From: All around, De/Pa
Default Re: going from air/fuel ratio gauge to a EGT (ehhguy)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ehhguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not trying to hijack b16ahybrid's thread, but i was wondering if you should run both the EGT gauge and a a/f gauge like the techedge. i have the techedge, but i am wondering if i need an EGT gauge as well.

thanks and sorry for the semi-OT post.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You cant go wrong by running both. Sometimes you can be right on with a/f, but waaay off in egt's---and vice versa of course.

This would be the most desirable setup.
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