Progress 22mm rear sway bar???
Does anyone have experience with this rear sway bar? It's 22mm and it has applications for the 92-00 Civic. I have seen it for as low as $187.00.
I just have a few questions:
1) Do you use your stock rear LCA's on a Civic (without stock swaybar)?
2) Has anyone experienced damage to the rear subframe?
3) Would this be cheaper than sourcing the parts for an ITR rear bar?
4) Any reviews or comments about this bar?
I just have a few questions:
1) Do you use your stock rear LCA's on a Civic (without stock swaybar)?
2) Has anyone experienced damage to the rear subframe?
3) Would this be cheaper than sourcing the parts for an ITR rear bar?
4) Any reviews or comments about this bar?
I tried searching and came up with minimal results, I also searched the archives. None of the threads answered my questions. I just thought I could get some help from experienced auto x guys that know suspension.
I think (not entirely sure) that the progress bar can be installed on cars without rear swaybar mounts on the lca's. The ITR bar and a beaks/bsq kit is cheaper, but then you have to go out and buy integra lca's to mount it to. The price will likely end up the same.
If that's the case, I would still go with the ITR bar with some subframe reinforcement. I guess the only reason not to is if you're in some sort of competition that would prohibit the changing of the lca's.
[edit]
BSQ - http://www.geocities.com/bretq/
Beaks - http://beaksproducts.com/main.html
If that's the case, I would still go with the ITR bar with some subframe reinforcement. I guess the only reason not to is if you're in some sort of competition that would prohibit the changing of the lca's.
[edit]
BSQ - http://www.geocities.com/bretq/
Beaks - http://beaksproducts.com/main.html
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JeffS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess the only reason not to is if you're in some sort of competition that would prohibit the changing of the lca's.
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This is an EXCELLENT point, especially for most autox classes where swapping LCAs is not an option... the reinforcements are still legal tho.
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This is an EXCELLENT point, especially for most autox classes where swapping LCAs is not an option... the reinforcements are still legal tho.
I am thinking about just going with the JDM ITR rear sway w/ LCA's/ reinforcemnet and JDM ITR Shocks, would this be a good street, auto x setup. I want to learn how to drive before I start upgrading shocks and stuff.
I believe I responded to this post in the EG section, but if you want an ITR swaybar with the reinforcement kit and all the bushings I'll sell you mine brand new out of the box for what I paid for it. Just PM me if your interested.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brasilracing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I believe I responded to this post in the EG section, but if you want an ITR swaybar with the reinforcement kit and all the bushings I'll sell you mine brand new out of the box for what I paid for it. Just PM me if your interested. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I`d go that route.
I`d go that route.
I have a 95 eg with a 22mm progress rear bar. The car originally did not have a bar but it wasn't a problem. Progress sends brackets that attach to the lower shock bolt so you don't need different lca's and you don't need to do any drilling. Tearing of the subframe has not been a problem on mine, as long as you put big washers on the back side of the bolts, (hard to explain I guess). You could always go the itr route but just thought I'd let you know that I love the progress bar. Good luck.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tunes12 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a 95 eg with a 22mm progress rear bar. The car originally did not have a bar but it wasn't a problem. Progress sends brackets that attach to the lower shock bolt so you don't need different lca's and you don't need to do any drilling. Tearing of the subframe has not been a problem on mine, as long as you put big washers on the back side of the bolts, (hard to explain I guess). You could always go the itr route but just thought I'd let you know that I love the progress bar. Good luck.
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I think this guy answered all my questions.
from researching, it looks like the ITR rear bar with all of the other stuff will cost anywhere from $200-$250.
The Progress bar can be found as cheap as 159.00, plus reinforcement. so the price is pretty much even. Which one will perform better? or will there even be a difference?
</TD></TR></TABLE>I think this guy answered all my questions.
from researching, it looks like the ITR rear bar with all of the other stuff will cost anywhere from $200-$250.
The Progress bar can be found as cheap as 159.00, plus reinforcement. so the price is pretty much even. Which one will perform better? or will there even be a difference?
The EG/DC Quick Swap kit from Beaks is $190 shipped. Endlinks from Beaks are another $45. If you need LCAs, those go for around $80. If you want a lower tie bar, spend around $80-100 and then maybe the Beaks upgrade kit for $10.
Very close to the price of the Comptech sway/tie combo at that point.
I've been looking into this for a few days now. Think I will hold out an extra month and go Comptech. The comptech is also 3-way adjustable and their mounting/reinforcement system is A+.
Very close to the price of the Comptech sway/tie combo at that point.
I've been looking into this for a few days now. Think I will hold out an extra month and go Comptech. The comptech is also 3-way adjustable and their mounting/reinforcement system is A+.
i have had one on my 94ex for around 6 months. only one problem. they are about to come out with a "competion" bar that is 24mm and has fully adjustable endlinks. looks like i'll be picking that one up now. it is priced close to the normal bar also.
the 'd bracket' mounts for the progress kit bolts in at 3 places on each side. one hole is for the bolt going thru the inboard lca hole. the other 2 are smaller and more inboard...the same ones that everyone uses for the itr bar. some people just use the big hole and bolt and tack weld the other legs onto the car.
it should be strong since it goes thru the inner lca chassis hole.
no on car experiences to share though.
it should be strong since it goes thru the inner lca chassis hole.
no on car experiences to share though.
I've used the Progress 22mm rear bar for several years now. Here's the story.
First, it requires no subframe reinforcement AFAIK, as it attaches to both the stock swaybar mounts AND the LCA mounting points, via a larger bolt. Pretty elegant solution to a common problem.
Second, it does not attach to the LCA - it attaches at the end of the LCA via the shock mount points. You'll have to flip your shocks around 180 degrees to accomodate this.
Not sure what the price is, but the Progress bar is a good piece. Another alternative might be Saner Fabrication - http://www.sanerperffab.com. IIRC, the mounting mechanisms are the same as the Progress bar, and it's adjustable.
First, it requires no subframe reinforcement AFAIK, as it attaches to both the stock swaybar mounts AND the LCA mounting points, via a larger bolt. Pretty elegant solution to a common problem.
Second, it does not attach to the LCA - it attaches at the end of the LCA via the shock mount points. You'll have to flip your shocks around 180 degrees to accomodate this.
Not sure what the price is, but the Progress bar is a good piece. Another alternative might be Saner Fabrication - http://www.sanerperffab.com. IIRC, the mounting mechanisms are the same as the Progress bar, and it's adjustable.
I have a progress bar on my Integra. Here's a tip to gove you added reinforcement. Progress suggests that you weld the subframe bracket to the subframe (to avoid the tearing out problem). Instead, I drilled a hole and placed a very large bolt and nut behind the subframe, which you can access by removing the entire LCA. This is a much more rigid mount and is a much cheaper solution to welding, especially if you can't do it yourself.
Note: this is on a G2 Integra. I believe that your Civic is the same, but don't hold me to that.
Note: this is on a G2 Integra. I believe that your Civic is the same, but don't hold me to that.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JeffS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... but then you have to go out and buy integra lca's to mount it to.
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Why would you have to do that? Can't you just drill a hole in the stock LCA (and possibly tack weld a small sheet of steel over it for strength). Or am I missing something?
From the SCCA solo rulebook:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scca »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
14.7 Anti-Roll (Sway) Bars
Any anti-sway bar is permitted. Bushing material, method of attachment, and locating points are unrestricted. This does not authorize removal of a welded-on part of a subframe toa ccommodate the installation. Components such as anti-roll bars and strut housings which serve dual purposes by also functioning as suspension locators may not be modified in ways which change the suspension geometry or steering geometry, and may not be installed in positions (e.g., upside down) other than that of the original configuration. The bar may serve no other purpose which is not explicitly permitted elsewhere herein (11/2002). </TD></TR></TABLE>
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Why would you have to do that? Can't you just drill a hole in the stock LCA (and possibly tack weld a small sheet of steel over it for strength). Or am I missing something?
From the SCCA solo rulebook:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by scca »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
14.7 Anti-Roll (Sway) Bars
Any anti-sway bar is permitted. Bushing material, method of attachment, and locating points are unrestricted. This does not authorize removal of a welded-on part of a subframe toa ccommodate the installation. Components such as anti-roll bars and strut housings which serve dual purposes by also functioning as suspension locators may not be modified in ways which change the suspension geometry or steering geometry, and may not be installed in positions (e.g., upside down) other than that of the original configuration. The bar may serve no other purpose which is not explicitly permitted elsewhere herein (11/2002). </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crack Monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can't you just drill a hole in the stock LCA (and possibly tack weld a small sheet of steel over it for strength). Or am I missing something?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is this possible? Does anyone have a how to or any info on this?
Is this possible? Does anyone have a how to or any info on this?
Helloooo,
Like Krshultz said the bar does not mount to the lower control arm but to the lower damper bolt with a bracket. And use a bolt backed with a large washer inside the sub frame on the upper "D" bracket pivot mount.
Like Krshultz said the bar does not mount to the lower control arm but to the lower damper bolt with a bracket. And use a bolt backed with a large washer inside the sub frame on the upper "D" bracket pivot mount.
Don't forget the fact that you can't use a normal rear lower tie bar while the progress bar is installed.
Here's a pic of mine(EJ8) with the Progress rear sway:


The only solutions I have found for this is to get the tie bar from a Comptech sway kit, if you could get it without the sway bar or getting the Comptech lower tie brace for the Integras, which mounts to the underside of the cross member(kinda hard to explain). If anybody else has a solution to this, please let me know.
BTW, I did the "washer trick" as well and have had no incidents.
Here's a pic of mine(EJ8) with the Progress rear sway:


The only solutions I have found for this is to get the tie bar from a Comptech sway kit, if you could get it without the sway bar or getting the Comptech lower tie brace for the Integras, which mounts to the underside of the cross member(kinda hard to explain). If anybody else has a solution to this, please let me know.
BTW, I did the "washer trick" as well and have had no incidents.




