What do i have to do to an B18B to be able to rev to 8k? oh and i have a set of 402T crower cams in it too by the way...if that helps AT all lol......thanks for any and all help

 

1st you need to change you're ecu to a chipped out odb1 running skunk or another program like pyc that allows you to rev to 8500rpm.

The motor it's self will not rev past 7700rpm or so with stock internals etc.
Since you have cams you MIGHT be able to get power at ranges up to 7600 rpm.

With my personal experience I stop making power at about 7300rpms.

 

stick it in first gear doing like 80mph, that will get ya to 8k rpm. lol but really, get ur ecu chipped with no rev limit, and get some good valvesprings for those cams, should rev to 8k with no probs. im not sure if those cams make power that far though

 

I've been thinking about the same thing after running out of revs at a Solo II driver training day on the back 'straight'. I was thinking Hondata with a very high limit (like 9,000 rpm) and then an MSD with a 7.5 to 8.0 pill. That way when you hit the rev limiter it is the MSD cutting the spark and not the ECU cutting fuel. Yes your header will take a beating when the unburned fuel hits it, but IMHO headers are easier/cheaper to replace than pistons destroyed from the momentary lean condition when fuel comes and goes.

People talk about running LS/VTEC hybrids to 8,500 rpm so I guess the bottom end is good to go, but I would look at a block guard - Honda put them on B18C* for a reason.

FWIW looking at the Crower catalog online last night and they imply that to use a high reving cam you need their springs and retainer kit.

I was going to start a thread asking for suggested stage mods for various rpm limits, something like:

stage one = bone stock + ECU mod - good to X,XXX rpm
stage two = stage one + block guard + springs and retainers - good to X,XXX rpm
stage three = stage two + ARP studs + balancing and blueprinting - good to XX,XXX rpm

and so on, but reading the comments by mtber about not making power past 7,300 to 7,600 I'm wondering if it is woth all the trouble on a daily driven car that needs a decent idle.

Sorry for the long ramble,
Thomas

 

I doubt those cams will even make power that high. Now for Crower 404s on the other hand...

But to answer your question, get some stiff valvesprings and retainers and you're set.

 

most higher cams lose overlap at high rpms
so why go that way..(why bother)
just streghten your bottom to handle high reving..
ex.
stroker...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FRANCISCO FLORES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">most higher cams lose overlap at high rpms
so why go that way..(why bother)
just streghten your bottom to handle high reving..
ex.
stroker...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
strokers dont strengthen your bottom end. rev are in the head. valve springs and retainers and not rev limit, to 9k... now dependability if ur doing it all the time, just for fun is a different story.