turbo ls integra
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From: 562 Kali, usa
turbo ls integra
for those of u who are highly experianced with turbos and turbo set ups....what else would i (need) to run 7 psi safely and strongly that the drag gen III turbo kit doesn't include? and besides tuning also.....? thanks 99 integra ls 
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,858
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From: bay area/socal, CA, USA
Re: turbo ls integra (dohc-nyne)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohc-nyne »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for those of u who are highly experianced with turbos and turbo set ups....what else would i (need) to run 7 psi safely and strongly that the drag gen III turbo kit doesn't include? and besides tuning also.....? thanks 99 integra ls </TD></TR></TABLE>
You would have better luck in the forced induction forum.
Anyway, I have to talk about the drag kit. I have it on my gsr and its alright.
I would definatly upgrade the manifold (bad wastegate placement and cause spiking sometimes, made of cast iron, prone to cracking over time. I would get a stainless steel inline pro or even a maxrev manifold).
Uprgrade to a Tial 35 mm wastegate instead of the POS deltagate it comes with. For safety reasons, also causes spiking on cold days or with a 3 inch downpipe.
Upgrade the POS oil return line. They supply you with a lead tube and a rubber hose to weld to the pan. Contact Flamenco-T on the board and get yourself a nice stainless steel braided setup.....my rubber line melted and corroded away after time.
Upgrade the stupid fish tank check valves the kit comes with. Get yourself a missing link. You do not need the missing link if you go with the fuel setup I mention next.
The fuel setup these "bolt on kits" come with are fmu+inline pump. This is do-able, but is not too efficient and reliable. This lead me to a blown motor after 12 months.
Invest in a Hondata s200, 440cc injectors minumum depending on your power goals, and a walbro gss342 (255 liter per hour) intank fuel pump.
With the fuel setup I just listed you will be able to run 10 psi daily safe and with more power than the FMU setup.
The only reason I like the drag kit is because it comes with a good blow off valve and bling bling intercooler piping. Besides those 2 factors, I would have gotten a revhard, which comes with ugly pipes IMO and a crappy vortech blow off valve.
Get some good gauges to monitor your conditions, like an EGT gauge and boost gauge both with peak and hold funtions.
Hope this helps. For more questions, direct it to the FI forum.
</TD></TR></TABLE>You would have better luck in the forced induction forum.
Anyway, I have to talk about the drag kit. I have it on my gsr and its alright.
I would definatly upgrade the manifold (bad wastegate placement and cause spiking sometimes, made of cast iron, prone to cracking over time. I would get a stainless steel inline pro or even a maxrev manifold).
Uprgrade to a Tial 35 mm wastegate instead of the POS deltagate it comes with. For safety reasons, also causes spiking on cold days or with a 3 inch downpipe.
Upgrade the POS oil return line. They supply you with a lead tube and a rubber hose to weld to the pan. Contact Flamenco-T on the board and get yourself a nice stainless steel braided setup.....my rubber line melted and corroded away after time.
Upgrade the stupid fish tank check valves the kit comes with. Get yourself a missing link. You do not need the missing link if you go with the fuel setup I mention next.
The fuel setup these "bolt on kits" come with are fmu+inline pump. This is do-able, but is not too efficient and reliable. This lead me to a blown motor after 12 months.
Invest in a Hondata s200, 440cc injectors minumum depending on your power goals, and a walbro gss342 (255 liter per hour) intank fuel pump.
With the fuel setup I just listed you will be able to run 10 psi daily safe and with more power than the FMU setup.
The only reason I like the drag kit is because it comes with a good blow off valve and bling bling intercooler piping. Besides those 2 factors, I would have gotten a revhard, which comes with ugly pipes IMO and a crappy vortech blow off valve.
Get some good gauges to monitor your conditions, like an EGT gauge and boost gauge both with peak and hold funtions.
Hope this helps. For more questions, direct it to the FI forum.
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 552
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From: bayarea, ca, usa
Re: turbo ls integra (romeo619romeo)
i would really go with dsm 550 cc injectors, and a better fuel pressure reglator and all the stuff that was mentioned in the previous post...also u wanna get a fuel management system with a data logger to tune such as aem ems..or haltec.. 
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: NOR, CAL, 209
Re: turbo ls integra (intekragsr)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by intekragsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
made of cast iron, prone to cracking over time. I would get a stainless steel inline pro or even a maxrev manifold).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I thought cast iron was the strongest. Ive seen the stainless crack all the time. I may be wrong.. but thats what Ive seen
Let us know how it goes!
made of cast iron, prone to cracking over time. I would get a stainless steel inline pro or even a maxrev manifold).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I thought cast iron was the strongest. Ive seen the stainless crack all the time. I may be wrong.. but thats what Ive seen
Let us know how it goes!
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