CV joint replacement.
Vehicle in question:1990 Honda Accord EX
Hey all, I think I need new CV joints. What happens is when I turn either to the right or the left while giving power to the car I get a "banging" noise from the prespective side.
Now if this is the case, seeing as though the noise comes from both sides, this means I have to get both replaced, correct?
Now, I would like to DIY it, or is this a hard DIY to accomplish? How much am I looking at for a DIY or a professional job?(ball park)
I would appreciate any info. Thanks!
Hey all, I think I need new CV joints. What happens is when I turn either to the right or the left while giving power to the car I get a "banging" noise from the prespective side.
Now if this is the case, seeing as though the noise comes from both sides, this means I have to get both replaced, correct?
Now, I would like to DIY it, or is this a hard DIY to accomplish? How much am I looking at for a DIY or a professional job?(ball park)
I would appreciate any info. Thanks!
Its pretty easy to DIY. All you need is a 34 or 36mm socket, and a big *** breaker bar. The rest is real easy.
You cant exactly replace the joints. You gotta replace the entire axle.
You cant exactly replace the joints. You gotta replace the entire axle.
not bad to replace. you need a 36mm axle socket. an air compressor would make things alot easier though. did both sides in a couple of hours this past weekend.
You need to replace the whole axel assembly? How much would that cost?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jingjing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not bad to replace. you need a 36mm axle socket. an air compressor would make things alot easier though. did both sides in a couple of hours this past weekend.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you replace the whole axel or just the joints? Also, do I have anything to worry about when using a breaker bar on this bolt? I.E. bending tie-rods or anything like that. I don't have an air compressor, so that's the use of the breaker bar.
Once again, thank you all.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jingjing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not bad to replace. you need a 36mm axle socket. an air compressor would make things alot easier though. did both sides in a couple of hours this past weekend.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you replace the whole axel or just the joints? Also, do I have anything to worry about when using a breaker bar on this bolt? I.E. bending tie-rods or anything like that. I don't have an air compressor, so that's the use of the breaker bar.
Once again, thank you all.
The axle nut has a part that's punched into the slot in the axle. Work that out with a punch or something so the nut can turn easier. Then set the handbrake real tight & block the wheels. Loosen that nut while the car is still on the ground. That way you don't knock it off the jackSTANDS when you jump on that breaker bar...
Clean the area where the axle goes into the transmission, so dirt doesn't get in there when you remove the axle. Drain the transmission oil, or just be prepared for it to pour out when you take the axle out of the transmission. You pop that out by prying with a crowbar or big flat screwdriver. Another reason for stands, 'cause you'll be underneath the car when you knock it down. Don't forget to refill the trans...
Obviously, use good solid stands, not just a jack. Make sure they're holding the car good before you crawl underneath. Blood makes such a mess under the car.
Clean the area where the axle goes into the transmission, so dirt doesn't get in there when you remove the axle. Drain the transmission oil, or just be prepared for it to pour out when you take the axle out of the transmission. You pop that out by prying with a crowbar or big flat screwdriver. Another reason for stands, 'cause you'll be underneath the car when you knock it down. Don't forget to refill the trans...
Obviously, use good solid stands, not just a jack. Make sure they're holding the car good before you crawl underneath. Blood makes such a mess under the car.
Axles are pretty cheap. Again, buy a 36mm socket and a heavy-duty breaker bar. I bent two 3/8"-drive breaker bars, had to buy a 1/2"-drive from Sears. I didn't bother staking the hub nuts when I put them back on, they were tight enough that they wouldn't come undone.
It's an easy DIY job. Get a Haynes manual or something like that. You have to undo the damper fork and lower ball joints to slide the axle out. The only real problem I encountered was a stubborn right axle (I thought the snap ring was had bent too much to fit, it went halfway in and hit a "wall"), but I just had to carefully hammer it in.
Tools are just sockets and wrenches (12mm, 14mm, 17mm, the 36mm), breaker bars, ball joint separator, hammer, high-temp grease, and maybe some extra hands. I didn't have to replace my axles in my `93 Accord, but I had to remove them when I replaced the clutch a couple weeks ago.
It's an easy DIY job. Get a Haynes manual or something like that. You have to undo the damper fork and lower ball joints to slide the axle out. The only real problem I encountered was a stubborn right axle (I thought the snap ring was had bent too much to fit, it went halfway in and hit a "wall"), but I just had to carefully hammer it in.
Tools are just sockets and wrenches (12mm, 14mm, 17mm, the 36mm), breaker bars, ball joint separator, hammer, high-temp grease, and maybe some extra hands. I didn't have to replace my axles in my `93 Accord, but I had to remove them when I replaced the clutch a couple weeks ago.
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