Is this a good e/t?
I have a 92 ex, so far all I have done is an intake (short ram), header, and exhaust....last night my best time was 16.7.....the last time i went to the track i had a passenger and a full load and put down a 17.5. Is 16.7 good for an automatic?
Yeah, my launches suck though...I want the h22 swap but the lowest price i could find was 4500 total, thats with shipping labor and conversion from auto to manual. I'm almost thinking it would be easier to sell my car and get one already 5 speed
I would have thought that you would have gotten low 16s with I/H/E. LDY KLLA of HS ran a 15.8 in his 6th Gen I4. I forget what type of motor a 92 EX has. Anything under 17 is good for an Accord.
Well, my motor is the f22a6...around 130/140 horsepower stock. I wanna get in the 14's but dont know how without goin h22...btw...does anyone know if the h22 has forged pistons or is that the h23
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those are not great times at all, what was your 60' or your r/t? Most accords run low 16s (especially autos, the manuals are only about a tenth faster generally). I dunno why you ran so slowly though, perhaps your motor is not in that great of shape?
nitrous will DEFFINATELY put you in the 14s, mid 14 range is typical on a 75hp dry shot. Nitrous on an auto is fine, nothing wrong there. You could probably see a bit of benefit from a good camshaft and some weight loss. The EX is heavier than most of the other accords, and if you have a system that's DEFFINATELY slowing you down.
nitrous will DEFFINATELY put you in the 14s, mid 14 range is typical on a 75hp dry shot. Nitrous on an auto is fine, nothing wrong there. You could probably see a bit of benefit from a good camshaft and some weight loss. The EX is heavier than most of the other accords, and if you have a system that's DEFFINATELY slowing you down.
that time really isnt that bad for a basically stock 4g accord, lots of them see times in the low 17 second range. as for the F22a6 I am pretty sure that the turbo and manifold stuff out of the 1g or 2g eclipse will bolt up with minor mods ($1000 turbo setup....that is a high estimate, just to be safe) Do a search, someone posted about it here
yeah, my ecu was messed up for a while there. It would be stuck in gear, nothing would get it out of gear. THis was the drive gear. The rpms would go as high as I could push them, it wouldn't upshift or downshift. This guy told me it was the ecu and he pulled it out to look at it. There was some corrosion on there and after that it has been fine. Also, there's almost like a sputtering sound coming from the exhaust. I only notice the sound when the rpms are under 2grand. It kinda sounds like its chugging up to speed. I have no idea what this could be, I would change out the fuel filter but thats tough to get to for now. Hopefully all will be good when I put in the h22....btw...for anyone who has done the h22 swap, how much was it? I got one estimate for 4500 (shipping, labor, engine cost, and changing automatic to manual) Thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by greenmachinex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, my ecu was messed up for a while there. It would be stuck in gear, nothing would get it out of gear. THis was the drive gear. The rpms would go as high as I could push them, it wouldn't upshift or downshift. This guy told me it was the ecu and he pulled it out to look at it. There was some corrosion on there and after that it has been fine. Also, there's almost like a sputtering sound coming from the exhaust. I only notice the sound when the rpms are under 2grand. It kinda sounds like its chugging up to speed. I have no idea what this could be, I would change out the fuel filter but thats tough to get to for now. Hopefully all will be good when I put in the h22....btw...for anyone who has done the h22 swap, how much was it? I got one estimate for 4500 (shipping, labor, engine cost, and changing automatic to manual) Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
$4500 wouldn't be too bad for the engine and all the work you are talking about. As long as it is done right and not by a bone head
If you are taking it to a performance shop to have it done, i would be sure to ask them if they can show you some of their work, especially the exact swap you are wanting. make sure they seem legit and get an esitmate that makes complete sence to you In Writing and then you can use that to "shop-a-round" too. BUT if you could find a 5spd with a bad motor and a straight body for cheap and got the swap setup off of eBay and did the work yourself you could save a lot of doe! It could be done cheaper
$4500 wouldn't be too bad for the engine and all the work you are talking about. As long as it is done right and not by a bone head
If you are taking it to a performance shop to have it done, i would be sure to ask them if they can show you some of their work, especially the exact swap you are wanting. make sure they seem legit and get an esitmate that makes complete sence to you In Writing and then you can use that to "shop-a-round" too. BUT if you could find a 5spd with a bad motor and a straight body for cheap and got the swap setup off of eBay and did the work yourself you could save a lot of doe! It could be done cheaper
you R/T deffinately DOES have a lot to do with your time, if you subtract it, and say you have a 15.5 second car it's b.s.....most "15.5 second" claims I see are morons taking their .5 light off the total elapsed time. Anyhow, I have an f22a6 because I converted the LX motor to it. The only thing I do not have is the cam that is said to be a bit different, but I'm holding off on that till I get one from JG.
your reaction time has <FONT SIZE="4">NOTHING</FONT> to do with your ET unless you are doing heads up racing with a pro tree or something
bracket racing and 99% of test and tune open track sessions run on the premise where as soon as you move your ET begins
bracket racing and 99% of test and tune open track sessions run on the premise where as soon as you move your ET begins


