street wheels vs. race wheels.
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From: Go Bears, CA
street wheels vs. race wheels.
What's up honda guys?
I'm working on a buildup for a car that's going to be doing autocross and daily driver duties (probably a 240Z). Since I originally wanted to start the car off running in stock, then moving up to street prepared when I had the money to push it up into the class, but the question of wheels came up.
I knew that I wanted to buy a second set of wheels for autocross, but it was the sizing issues that caught my eye. If I were to run Stock, I would have to get a second set of rims of the same diameter and width (14 x 4.5 on the 240z). However, when I moved up to SP, I would want a set of wider tires. I just can't justify dumping huge amounts of money down for wheels and tires that I'm going to ditch if I move up in class anyway.
So, the solution then is to go with bigger wheels straight off the bat, which will push me right into SP, but can probably save me some money. I'm currently looking into something around 16x7 (something wide) with good tires to run for the track, and run the stock (14x4.5) wheels with crappy all season tires for the street.
This is all good and peachy...except for one thing. I was surfing around and I saw a website of an autocrosser who ran larger diameter wheels for the street, and smaller diameter wheels for the track. Are there any real advantages/advantages to this? (besides the car looking cooler off the track, something I lament) Am I on track with my thinking? Somebody school me on street wheels vs. race wheels...
I'm working on a buildup for a car that's going to be doing autocross and daily driver duties (probably a 240Z). Since I originally wanted to start the car off running in stock, then moving up to street prepared when I had the money to push it up into the class, but the question of wheels came up.
I knew that I wanted to buy a second set of wheels for autocross, but it was the sizing issues that caught my eye. If I were to run Stock, I would have to get a second set of rims of the same diameter and width (14 x 4.5 on the 240z). However, when I moved up to SP, I would want a set of wider tires. I just can't justify dumping huge amounts of money down for wheels and tires that I'm going to ditch if I move up in class anyway.
So, the solution then is to go with bigger wheels straight off the bat, which will push me right into SP, but can probably save me some money. I'm currently looking into something around 16x7 (something wide) with good tires to run for the track, and run the stock (14x4.5) wheels with crappy all season tires for the street.
This is all good and peachy...except for one thing. I was surfing around and I saw a website of an autocrosser who ran larger diameter wheels for the street, and smaller diameter wheels for the track. Are there any real advantages/advantages to this? (besides the car looking cooler off the track, something I lament) Am I on track with my thinking? Somebody school me on street wheels vs. race wheels...
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From: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Re: street wheels vs. race wheels. (JeremyL)
I guess it depends on the car but a lot of autocrossers run 13x7 wheels. The smaller diameter wheels mean less rotating mass (faster acceleration and braking) and smaller rolling circumference (shorter gearing). Unless the car you decide to run was massive amounts of torque, big wheels are a no-no in my opinion.
I would suggest buying some stock-sized wheels for your car from a auto wrecker, or from the classifieds somewhere. If you're patient you can find them for really cheap. Then down the road, when you're done with stock, you can get some pimpy 13x7 or whatever. Best thing when you're starting out is really to spend as little money as possible on mods and drive drive the damn car. It's not worth not being able to eat, or not being able to make it to an event because you blew all your money on wheels or dampers.
I would suggest buying some stock-sized wheels for your car from a auto wrecker, or from the classifieds somewhere. If you're patient you can find them for really cheap. Then down the road, when you're done with stock, you can get some pimpy 13x7 or whatever. Best thing when you're starting out is really to spend as little money as possible on mods and drive drive the damn car. It's not worth not being able to eat, or not being able to make it to an event because you blew all your money on wheels or dampers.
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From: Novi, MI, USA
Re: street wheels vs. race wheels. (JustChou)
In addition to less rotating mass, smaller wheels allow more rubber on the sidewalls. This increases the slip angle and thus makes the car more predictable at the limit: short sidewalls tend to have an on/off characteristic in that you seem to either be sticking or sliding with little warning in between.
I don't know if I totally agree with the junkyard wheel approach. Some fellow asked about wheels several months ago (you can probably search for my post). Without totally re-hashing that post, keep in mind that your wheels are your link to the tire which is the only link you have to the pavement. Depending on how serious you are about autocross and/or how hard you drive, you might want to spend a little more in this category. Wheels do fatigue and fail over time and a track is the last place you want that to happen. A cheap, safe bet is to go with a set of 13" or 14" steel wheels. They may not be as light as aluminum, but in comparison they are bulletproof. Otherwise, a reputable aluminum wheel manufacturer will suffice (Enkei, etc.). I would be very cautious of wheels in which you don't know the history...
Regarding the wheel sizes: this is very much a driver preference. I've seen guys on 17" wheels as fast as the guys on 13" wheels. I personally run 17" BBS wheels on my RSX, but only because of the brakes, otherwise I've had good luck with 15s and 16s. Depends on preference and skill...
I don't know if I totally agree with the junkyard wheel approach. Some fellow asked about wheels several months ago (you can probably search for my post). Without totally re-hashing that post, keep in mind that your wheels are your link to the tire which is the only link you have to the pavement. Depending on how serious you are about autocross and/or how hard you drive, you might want to spend a little more in this category. Wheels do fatigue and fail over time and a track is the last place you want that to happen. A cheap, safe bet is to go with a set of 13" or 14" steel wheels. They may not be as light as aluminum, but in comparison they are bulletproof. Otherwise, a reputable aluminum wheel manufacturer will suffice (Enkei, etc.). I would be very cautious of wheels in which you don't know the history...
Regarding the wheel sizes: this is very much a driver preference. I've seen guys on 17" wheels as fast as the guys on 13" wheels. I personally run 17" BBS wheels on my RSX, but only because of the brakes, otherwise I've had good luck with 15s and 16s. Depends on preference and skill...
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Re: street wheels vs. race wheels. (archmanrsx3)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by archmanrsx3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I personally run 17" BBS wheels on my RSX, but only because of the brakes, otherwise I've had good luck with 15s and 16s. Depends on preference and skill...</TD></TR></TABLE>
OT: Do you have a RSX with an upgraded big brake kit because 16's will fit without a problem on the RSX. Just wondering. I have a Type S.
OT: Do you have a RSX with an upgraded big brake kit because 16's will fit without a problem on the RSX. Just wondering. I have a Type S.
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From: Oakland, Ca, USA
Re: street wheels vs. race wheels. (JustChou)
I was in the same dilemma. I run a stock 93 Prelude, and I wanted to race on worthy tires. My solution was to throw Falken Azenis on my stock steel wheels (the 14's that came with the car), and get some alloys for the street with all-season tires.
There are a couple advantages to this, besides getting to stay in stock.
1) 14" tires are cheaper.
2) You can run your stylie wheels on the street. For me, this is a set of 15" Stock Prelude alloys off an Si model.
3) Since you don't run hubcaps at a race, you don't need to worry about putting them on with your stock wheels.
You might choose to get some more aggro tires, I chose Falkens because they're cheap.
This works like a charm for me. I hope whatever solution you find works out for you as well!
-Dan
(93 Prelude S, #101 H Stock)
There are a couple advantages to this, besides getting to stay in stock.
1) 14" tires are cheaper.
2) You can run your stylie wheels on the street. For me, this is a set of 15" Stock Prelude alloys off an Si model.
3) Since you don't run hubcaps at a race, you don't need to worry about putting them on with your stock wheels.
You might choose to get some more aggro tires, I chose Falkens because they're cheap.
This works like a charm for me. I hope whatever solution you find works out for you as well!
-Dan
(93 Prelude S, #101 H Stock)
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From: Go Bears, CA
Re: street wheels vs. race wheels. (LudemanDan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudemanDan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was in the same dilemma. I run a stock 93 Prelude, and I wanted to race on worthy tires. My solution was to throw Falken Azenis on my stock steel wheels (the 14's that came with the car), and get some alloys for the street with all-season tires.
There are a couple advantages to this, besides getting to stay in stock.
1) 14" tires are cheaper.
2) You can run your stylie wheels on the street. For me, this is a set of 15" Stock Prelude alloys off an Si model.
3) Since you don't run hubcaps at a race, you don't need to worry about putting them on with your stock wheels.
You might choose to get some more aggro tires, I chose Falkens because they're cheap.
This works like a charm for me. I hope whatever solution you find works out for you as well!
-Dan
(93 Prelude S, #101 H Stock)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Does your car feel slower when you throw the 14's on? I heard that steel wheels are quite a bit heavier, but at autocross speeds, I don't know if this makes a signifigant difference.
There are a couple advantages to this, besides getting to stay in stock.
1) 14" tires are cheaper.
2) You can run your stylie wheels on the street. For me, this is a set of 15" Stock Prelude alloys off an Si model.
3) Since you don't run hubcaps at a race, you don't need to worry about putting them on with your stock wheels.
You might choose to get some more aggro tires, I chose Falkens because they're cheap.
This works like a charm for me. I hope whatever solution you find works out for you as well!
-Dan
(93 Prelude S, #101 H Stock)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Does your car feel slower when you throw the 14's on? I heard that steel wheels are quite a bit heavier, but at autocross speeds, I don't know if this makes a signifigant difference.
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Re: street wheels vs. race wheels. (JustChou)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JustChou »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Does your car feel slower when you throw the 14's on? I heard that steel wheels are quite a bit heavier, but at autocross speeds, I don't know if this makes a signifigant difference.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The steel wheels are a bit heavier, but not by much. The Falken tires are slightly smaller in diameter than the stock size (195/60/14 as opposed to 205/55/15), and this mostly makes up for the difference in weight.
Dan
Edit: with 240z wheels, I have no idea.
Does your car feel slower when you throw the 14's on? I heard that steel wheels are quite a bit heavier, but at autocross speeds, I don't know if this makes a signifigant difference.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The steel wheels are a bit heavier, but not by much. The Falken tires are slightly smaller in diameter than the stock size (195/60/14 as opposed to 205/55/15), and this mostly makes up for the difference in weight.
Dan
Edit: with 240z wheels, I have no idea.
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From: Novi, MI, USA
Re: street wheels vs. race wheels. (sjracer)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sjracer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OT: Do you have a RSX with an upgraded big brake kit because 16's will fit without a problem on the RSX. Just wondering. I have a Type S.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup, I got the kit from Brembo with the 12.9" rotors. After driving my Cavalier home on the backing plates last year, I've made darn sure that it never happens with the RSX!
I think they're overkill though. I'd probably have to run 245/40 R17s in order to get those babies hot...but I really hate the feeling of looking straight at the concrete retaining wall as the brake pedal drops to the floor! 
I'm sure the weight of steel wheels won't have much of an effect as long as the tire/wheel combo is approx the same weight as stock. An unsprung weight increase will cause a more dramatic effect on handling than it will in rotational inertia. If its much different from stock, you will probably need to retune the suspension.
Yup, I got the kit from Brembo with the 12.9" rotors. After driving my Cavalier home on the backing plates last year, I've made darn sure that it never happens with the RSX!
I think they're overkill though. I'd probably have to run 245/40 R17s in order to get those babies hot...but I really hate the feeling of looking straight at the concrete retaining wall as the brake pedal drops to the floor! I'm sure the weight of steel wheels won't have much of an effect as long as the tire/wheel combo is approx the same weight as stock. An unsprung weight increase will cause a more dramatic effect on handling than it will in rotational inertia. If its much different from stock, you will probably need to retune the suspension.
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Re: street wheels vs. race wheels. (LudemanDan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudemanDan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The steel wheels are a bit heavier, but not by much. The Falken tires are slightly smaller in diameter than the stock size (195/60/14 as opposed to 205/55/15), and this mostly makes up for the difference in weight.
Dan
Edit: with 240z wheels, I have no idea. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Hey Ludeman, I just realized that you're in Walnut Creek. I'm moving from Chicago over to your area over the summer...I'll be in Orinda. How are the cars in that area?
The steel wheels are a bit heavier, but not by much. The Falken tires are slightly smaller in diameter than the stock size (195/60/14 as opposed to 205/55/15), and this mostly makes up for the difference in weight.
Dan
Edit: with 240z wheels, I have no idea. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Hey Ludeman, I just realized that you're in Walnut Creek. I'm moving from Chicago over to your area over the summer...I'll be in Orinda. How are the cars in that area?
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Re: street wheels vs. race wheels. (JustChou)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JustChou »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Hey Ludeman, I just realized that you're in Walnut Creek. I'm moving from Chicago over to your area over the summer...I'll be in Orinda. How are the cars in that area?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The cars? I dunno- what do you drive?
If you're coming during the summer, you'll be in time to catch the slush series in SF Region autox (starts in September, I think). You'll be within easy reach of the three main sites. You need a membership to compete in SFR.
What brings you to Orinda?
Hey Ludeman, I just realized that you're in Walnut Creek. I'm moving from Chicago over to your area over the summer...I'll be in Orinda. How are the cars in that area?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The cars? I dunno- what do you drive?
If you're coming during the summer, you'll be in time to catch the slush series in SF Region autox (starts in September, I think). You'll be within easy reach of the three main sites. You need a membership to compete in SFR.
What brings you to Orinda?
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Re: street wheels vs. race wheels. (LudemanDan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudemanDan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The cars? I dunno- what do you drive?
If you're coming during the summer, you'll be in time to catch the slush series in SF Region autox (starts in September, I think). You'll be within easy reach of the three main sites. You need a membership to compete in SFR.
What brings you to Orinda?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I currently drive a 91 CRX Si, but I'm going to sell it and buy a car when I get out there. I'm looking to buy a datsun 240z (something that would be darn near impossible to find in Chicago) and prep it for E-Stock. How close is "easy reach"?
EDIT: My father found a job out in the area, plus, I'm looking to attend UC berkely and the residency will cut tuition and admission.
The cars? I dunno- what do you drive?
If you're coming during the summer, you'll be in time to catch the slush series in SF Region autox (starts in September, I think). You'll be within easy reach of the three main sites. You need a membership to compete in SFR.
What brings you to Orinda?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I currently drive a 91 CRX Si, but I'm going to sell it and buy a car when I get out there. I'm looking to buy a datsun 240z (something that would be darn near impossible to find in Chicago) and prep it for E-Stock. How close is "easy reach"?
EDIT: My father found a job out in the area, plus, I'm looking to attend UC berkely and the residency will cut tuition and admission.
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Re: street wheels vs. race wheels. (JustChou)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JustChou »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
How close is "easy reach"?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd say within 20 minutes of all three. Especially in Sunday morning traffic. There are a few places that take longer to get to, but they don't use those sites very often.
The only thing about Orinda is that it lies next to this section of freeway that gets hugely jammed during rush hour. The town sits at the bottom of a hill, and the freeway turns into a tunnel, which creates the jam.
The flipside of that is, if you like tearing, you get to drive over the hill instead of through it (and then catch the freeway ahead of the traffic jam). It's a nice 5 minutes of curvy roads.
BTW, you're "preparing" a car for E stock? What kind of preparation does that involve?
Dan
How close is "easy reach"?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd say within 20 minutes of all three. Especially in Sunday morning traffic. There are a few places that take longer to get to, but they don't use those sites very often.
The only thing about Orinda is that it lies next to this section of freeway that gets hugely jammed during rush hour. The town sits at the bottom of a hill, and the freeway turns into a tunnel, which creates the jam.
The flipside of that is, if you like tearing, you get to drive over the hill instead of through it (and then catch the freeway ahead of the traffic jam). It's a nice 5 minutes of curvy roads.
BTW, you're "preparing" a car for E stock? What kind of preparation does that involve?
Dan
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Re: street wheels vs. race wheels. (LudemanDan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudemanDan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'd say within 20 minutes of all three. Especially in Sunday morning traffic. There are a few places that take longer to get to, but they don't use those sites very often.
The only thing about Orinda is that it lies next to this section of freeway that gets hugely jammed during rush hour. The town sits at the bottom of a hill, and the freeway turns into a tunnel, which creates the jam.
The flipside of that is, if you like tearing, you get to drive over the hill instead of through it (and then catch the freeway ahead of the traffic jam). It's a nice 5 minutes of curvy roads.
BTW, you're "preparing" a car for E stock? What kind of preparation does that involve?
Dan</TD></TR></TABLE>
You'll have to show me the "shortcut" sometime...maybe we can meet up when I hit town. Are most of the events on Sunday? aww...well, we'll see.
Here's my prospective datsun buildup:
-restore, rebuild and tuneup (60k tuneup, clutch, bushings, engine mounts, etc.)
-bolt in roll cage (more for daily driving safety than autox
-one set of race tires and wheels (stock size)
-a second set of wheels and street tires (bigger, I'll use them if I go up to DSP)
-koni strut inserts
-high flow filter element
-sway bar kit
All that leaves about 4000 for me to find a decent 240z to play with. I'm trying to fit it all in 8000 dollars.
I'd say within 20 minutes of all three. Especially in Sunday morning traffic. There are a few places that take longer to get to, but they don't use those sites very often.
The only thing about Orinda is that it lies next to this section of freeway that gets hugely jammed during rush hour. The town sits at the bottom of a hill, and the freeway turns into a tunnel, which creates the jam.
The flipside of that is, if you like tearing, you get to drive over the hill instead of through it (and then catch the freeway ahead of the traffic jam). It's a nice 5 minutes of curvy roads.
BTW, you're "preparing" a car for E stock? What kind of preparation does that involve?
Dan</TD></TR></TABLE>
You'll have to show me the "shortcut" sometime...maybe we can meet up when I hit town. Are most of the events on Sunday? aww...well, we'll see.
Here's my prospective datsun buildup:
-restore, rebuild and tuneup (60k tuneup, clutch, bushings, engine mounts, etc.)
-bolt in roll cage (more for daily driving safety than autox
-one set of race tires and wheels (stock size)
-a second set of wheels and street tires (bigger, I'll use them if I go up to DSP)
-koni strut inserts
-high flow filter element
-sway bar kit
All that leaves about 4000 for me to find a decent 240z to play with. I'm trying to fit it all in 8000 dollars.
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Re: street wheels vs. race wheels. (JustChou)
If you are not very mechanically inclined with cars and need the car for daily transportation then run far, far away from prepping a 20+ year car for autocross/track use.
Keep the CRX to autocross.... buy the 240z as a 'fun' car and dont expect it to run most of the time. Less dissapointment that way when your 20 year old car blows a coolant line to the oil cooler on your way to an autocross.
RJ
Keep the CRX to autocross.... buy the 240z as a 'fun' car and dont expect it to run most of the time. Less dissapointment that way when your 20 year old car blows a coolant line to the oil cooler on your way to an autocross.
RJ
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Re: street wheels vs. race wheels. (.RJ)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you are not very mechanically inclined with cars and need the car for daily transportation then run far, far away from prepping a 20+ year car for autocross/track use.
Keep the CRX to autocross.... buy the 240z as a 'fun' car and dont expect it to run most of the time. Less dissapointment that way when your 20 year old car blows a coolant line to the oil cooler on your way to an autocross.
RJ </TD></TR></TABLE>
I dunno, RJ. I've seen a lot of vintage cars which seem to be in great running condition out in CA. I won't be shipping the CRX across the country for sure (it's a peice of crap, believe me). Maybe you can help met out. I have around 8000 budgeted for an autox/daily driver car. These are the things I'm looking for:
1) something other than honda. I love honda, but I want to try something different
2) something with a lot of character. There are some great platforms out there that have no character. That's one reason why I like CRX's, they're different.
3) something pretty competative in autocross (probably stock class, as I don't have much money)
4) something sporty, but not "loud." keep in mind that I'm a teenager, and cars that would be fine for older guys will paint me as being a spoiled brat
5) something japanese or european. I don't have anything against american cars, but my parents are pretty much sworn against them.
Other cars I've considered: Porsche 914, 240SX, AE86, Datsun 510, Mk II MR2 turbo, E30 M3, BMW 2002, miata
Keep in mind that the 8000 includes the car and all mods/restoration/tuneups.
Keep the CRX to autocross.... buy the 240z as a 'fun' car and dont expect it to run most of the time. Less dissapointment that way when your 20 year old car blows a coolant line to the oil cooler on your way to an autocross.
RJ </TD></TR></TABLE>
I dunno, RJ. I've seen a lot of vintage cars which seem to be in great running condition out in CA. I won't be shipping the CRX across the country for sure (it's a peice of crap, believe me). Maybe you can help met out. I have around 8000 budgeted for an autox/daily driver car. These are the things I'm looking for:
1) something other than honda. I love honda, but I want to try something different
2) something with a lot of character. There are some great platforms out there that have no character. That's one reason why I like CRX's, they're different.
3) something pretty competative in autocross (probably stock class, as I don't have much money)
4) something sporty, but not "loud." keep in mind that I'm a teenager, and cars that would be fine for older guys will paint me as being a spoiled brat
5) something japanese or european. I don't have anything against american cars, but my parents are pretty much sworn against them.
Other cars I've considered: Porsche 914, 240SX, AE86, Datsun 510, Mk II MR2 turbo, E30 M3, BMW 2002, miata
Keep in mind that the 8000 includes the car and all mods/restoration/tuneups.
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Re: street wheels vs. race wheels. (JustChou)
Out of all those cars (since you plan on only having one car) i'd take the miata. They are just a blast to drive and the drop top would kick *** in california.
An older car that requires alot of 'special' knowledge to restore and keep running as well as beat on for autocross/track use will likely spend more time busted than running or be really expensive to restore/keep running (or both).
An older car that requires alot of 'special' knowledge to restore and keep running as well as beat on for autocross/track use will likely spend more time busted than running or be really expensive to restore/keep running (or both).
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Re: street wheels vs. race wheels. (.RJ)
Of those cars, the clear advantage to the 240sx is its versatility and reliability. I almost bought one before I got my Prelude. You could have only one car that way, and still have a reasonable degree of practicality, fun tearing around, reliability, and low cost.
Unfortunately, the seats in those things aren't that great.
BTW, are you sure you can run a sway bar kit in stock?
Unfortunately, the seats in those things aren't that great.
BTW, are you sure you can run a sway bar kit in stock?
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Re: street wheels vs. race wheels. (LudemanDan)
Yeah, the 240sx doesn't have enough character for me. The miata is a good choice, but there's TONS of them in CA.
Yeah, I'm positive you can add sway bars in stock. I'm at school, otherwise I'd quote the SCCA rulebook.
Yeah, I'm positive you can add sway bars in stock. I'm at school, otherwise I'd quote the SCCA rulebook.
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Re: street wheels vs. race wheels. (JustChou)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JustChou »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
3) something pretty competative in autocross (probably stock class, as I don't have much money)
Other cars I've considered: Porsche 914, 240SX, AE86, Datsun 510, Mk II MR2 turbo, E30 M3, BMW 2002, miata
Keep in mind that the 8000 includes the car and all mods/restoration/tuneups.</TD></TR></TABLE>
#3 really limits you. I'd suggest a 91-95 MR2 NA. It's the dominant ES car and it's also practical. You can fit 4 race tires in it, plus all your tools, helmet, other autoX gear. It's somewhat easy to drive, once you remember that the engine is in the middle. Easy on tires (can get tons of camber in stock form) as long as you adjust to not having ABS (some of the later models had ABS).
From time to time, a turn-key nationally competitive MR2 pops up. Typically in the $8000 range, but that's a well-kept, well-maintained car with multiple sets of wheels and tires, and it's fully setup for stock class. You really can't go wrong with that.
A Miata is also a good choice, but the ones you could afford are probably the 1.6L ones that are underdogs in ES. The later 1.8L (a 99 Sport in particular) are great for CS. Those cost a bit more, since it is a pretty new car.
Autocross is somewhat hard on the car, so I'd be a bit nervous taking a 20+ year old car out and beating on it. I think a 240Z is a bad idea. If anything, the 240Z is pretty light, so when it dies on course, it only takes 1 or 2 people to push it off course. I've seen that happen a lot.
*edit* I forgot to mention that in stock class, you're only allowed to change the front sway bar, not the rear.
3) something pretty competative in autocross (probably stock class, as I don't have much money)
Other cars I've considered: Porsche 914, 240SX, AE86, Datsun 510, Mk II MR2 turbo, E30 M3, BMW 2002, miata
Keep in mind that the 8000 includes the car and all mods/restoration/tuneups.</TD></TR></TABLE>
#3 really limits you. I'd suggest a 91-95 MR2 NA. It's the dominant ES car and it's also practical. You can fit 4 race tires in it, plus all your tools, helmet, other autoX gear. It's somewhat easy to drive, once you remember that the engine is in the middle. Easy on tires (can get tons of camber in stock form) as long as you adjust to not having ABS (some of the later models had ABS).
From time to time, a turn-key nationally competitive MR2 pops up. Typically in the $8000 range, but that's a well-kept, well-maintained car with multiple sets of wheels and tires, and it's fully setup for stock class. You really can't go wrong with that.
A Miata is also a good choice, but the ones you could afford are probably the 1.6L ones that are underdogs in ES. The later 1.8L (a 99 Sport in particular) are great for CS. Those cost a bit more, since it is a pretty new car.
Autocross is somewhat hard on the car, so I'd be a bit nervous taking a 20+ year old car out and beating on it. I think a 240Z is a bad idea. If anything, the 240Z is pretty light, so when it dies on course, it only takes 1 or 2 people to push it off course.
I've seen that happen a lot. *edit* I forgot to mention that in stock class, you're only allowed to change the front sway bar, not the rear.
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,893
Likes: 0
From: Manchester, NH
Re: street wheels vs. race wheels. (Pork Chop)
the 91-95 NA MR2 is the best possibel choice, theyre cheap to be had parts are easy and pretty cheap and they have a lot more low end torque than almost any other 4cyl out there...and the handling is worlds above a 240SX, Z or ZX
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,260
Likes: 0
From: Montreal, QC, Canada
Re: street wheels vs. race wheels. (Pork Chop)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pork Chop »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
#3 really limits you. I'd suggest a 91-95 MR2 NA. It's the dominant ES car and it's also practical. You can fit 4 race tires in it, plus all your tools, helmet, other autoX gear. It's somewhat easy to drive, once you remember that the engine is in the middle. Easy on tires (can get tons of camber in stock form) as long as you adjust to not having ABS (some of the later models had ABS).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed that the MR2 n/a is a great car. But fitting 4 race tires and all the other chit in there? Damn, i'd love to see that... seriously? All that **** usually fills up a hatchcrap full...
#3 really limits you. I'd suggest a 91-95 MR2 NA. It's the dominant ES car and it's also practical. You can fit 4 race tires in it, plus all your tools, helmet, other autoX gear. It's somewhat easy to drive, once you remember that the engine is in the middle. Easy on tires (can get tons of camber in stock form) as long as you adjust to not having ABS (some of the later models had ABS).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed that the MR2 n/a is a great car. But fitting 4 race tires and all the other chit in there? Damn, i'd love to see that... seriously? All that **** usually fills up a hatchcrap full...
Trial User
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: Bay Area, CA, USA
Re: street wheels vs. race wheels. (jsi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jsi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Agreed that the MR2 n/a is a great car. But fitting 4 race tires and all the other chit in there? Damn, i'd love to see that... seriously? All that **** usually fills up a hatchcrap full...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup, it all fits!
Take out the spare donut, put a front tire in there (205/50/15). Put the other front tire behind the passenger seat. Put the two rears (225/45/15 or 225/50/15) side by side on the passenger seat. Put other stuff in the passenger footwell (sleeping bag, jack, small bag). Other luggage can fit behind the driver's seat, depending on how tall you are. I haven't even put anything in the trunk yet! Toolbox, water sprayer, gas can, small cooler, straight pipe, etc goes there.
Even with the tires on the passenger seat, you could still see out the right side quarter-panel window, so there really isn't a nasty blind spot.
Agreed that the MR2 n/a is a great car. But fitting 4 race tires and all the other chit in there? Damn, i'd love to see that... seriously? All that **** usually fills up a hatchcrap full...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup, it all fits!
Take out the spare donut, put a front tire in there (205/50/15). Put the other front tire behind the passenger seat. Put the two rears (225/45/15 or 225/50/15) side by side on the passenger seat. Put other stuff in the passenger footwell (sleeping bag, jack, small bag). Other luggage can fit behind the driver's seat, depending on how tall you are. I haven't even put anything in the trunk yet! Toolbox, water sprayer, gas can, small cooler, straight pipe, etc goes there.
Even with the tires on the passenger seat, you could still see out the right side quarter-panel window, so there really isn't a nasty blind spot.