Installed my Skunk2 intake Mani - questions (i searched, didnt find anything)
Yea, I just installed my skunk2 mani on my 95 ls. I know someone had a problem with the head studs not having enough thread to put on their nuts for their GSR mani.. But I had the same problem on my ls.. On the number 1 cyl, the top nut is onl 3/4 way, and the top middle nut is on 1/4 way (stripped 3 bolts trying to tighten them) So I was wondering if anyone has done anything to solve this.. All i can think of is to drill down a lil bit with a bigger drill bit. Also, has anyone else with an ls thought their car felt slower? All I have is i/h/e, and a FPR & gauge. It idles @ 41psi 50-55 @ WOT. And I noticed i lost my midrange pull, in fact it feels liek it loses some power from 5,000-5,800 rpm, then it comes back until redline.. Just wondering on someone elses opinion on it.. My car just feels SLOWER now... Think I need to raise my fuel pressure? Or is it because I got stock cams and i have no real mods so my car is sucking in too much air? Plus I think I got a vacuum leak, but it make sno sense.. When my cars engine is cold the idle goes form 1,500-1,800 back and fourth, soon as the engine warms up it goes away.. I checked all my vacuum lines and they arent cracked or anything... thanks
Guest
Posts: n/a
For the LS its just a Type R replica i really dont understand why you are having these problems!! My only suggestion is to check all the connection for the Sensors because you not of clicked them all the way in!!
Not sure about the install problems, but the power thing seems like a pretty common problem, because unless you have alot of mods you really cant beat the air flow velocity of the stock IM.
all my sensors are attatched all the way. So the power thing is normal? SO i have LOST hp because my car isnt modded much? Thats nice to know, I just put the thing on because im goin to the track. heh.. And Im not spending another 4 hrs putting the stock one back on...
bumped the fuel pressure up to 43psi.. Car is even slower... only thing I can think of, is I reset my ecu, and now its overcompensating and running in rich mode even after the car is totally warmed up.... Maybe I should just get some cams and my prob will be gone
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid Boy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bumped the fuel pressure up to 43psi.. Car is even slower... only thing I can think of, is I reset my ecu, and now its overcompensating and running in rich mode even after the car is totally warmed up.... Maybe I should just get some cams and my prob will be gone
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yah, get some cams
Seriously though, turn your FPR back to stock level. You don't need it set to 43psi for stock LS cams.
Your IM is designed for much higher lift cams than you have. Your stock IM is probably better suited for your application, unless you are going to add cams or FI down the road.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Yah, get some cams
Seriously though, turn your FPR back to stock level. You don't need it set to 43psi for stock LS cams.Your IM is designed for much higher lift cams than you have. Your stock IM is probably better suited for your application, unless you are going to add cams or FI down the road.
Trending Topics
butt dyno is not accurate at all.
take your car to dyno and get it tuned.
you need to get longer studs that attach on the head if you are woried about the nuts not attaching on enough. you need enough pressure so air does not leak inbetween the IM and head
take your car to dyno and get it tuned.
you need to get longer studs that attach on the head if you are woried about the nuts not attaching on enough. you need enough pressure so air does not leak inbetween the IM and head
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



Now i just need to find 800 dollars heh
