Check out the new custom swaybar.
This swaybar was custom made by Comptech using the design of the RSX CoAxial adjustable swaybar only made for the G3 Integra. I'll put photos of the installed unit later today and a review after Sunday. The bar is adjustable with the three holes on the end of each arm for small adjustments and the center bolt can be moved for large adjustments to the stiffness of the bar.
Very slick boy-o... I'll be very interested to read your review on it. What I'd be curious to know is what setting on that bar is equivalent to their standard bar.
Most of the bar is 22mm but the middle section is *rough guess* 28mm. The bar itself is actually 2 bars which one half fits over the other half. The center pin adjusts how much of the effective bar is 28mm. This bar can be fitted to any Comptech Integra kit but as I mentioned before this was a custom built bar. Comptech is considering marketing this bar for the G3 Tegs but I haven't heard anything official.
Is there any play in the center section? I'm guessing the ~28mm bar is just a sleeve that fits over the other part, is that right?
Anyway, very nice piece, if I thought it would fit my car, I would consider killing you for it....nothing personal.
Anyway, very nice piece, if I thought it would fit my car, I would consider killing you for it....nothing personal.
Yes, the 28mm section is a sleeve that fits over the other part, and to answer your question Matt, I believe when the center pin is set to full soft that is when it's closest to the standard Comptech bar. I think this is right because at full soft the bar is effectively a 22mm bar but as you move the pin you're increasing the effective thickness of the bar.
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OT: Does anyone know if other swaybars will fit onto the Comptech Tie bar/base? I was looking to see if I could upgrade my Comptech 22mm to a Mugen 24mm (or some other 23mm or 24mm make) and still use the comptech base.
Cool. Now you can go canyon driving around those curvy local streets of yours. Big j/k
I was wondering why mapquest said turn left on blah, turn right on blah when it's the same street. Read like a rally course map.
-al "what can brown do for you?"
Here are some pics of the installed product:
Nice fitment, only a little close to the trunk bottom but that's it.
Closeup of the CoAxial joint.
Super sweet endlink in case you never seen them before.
Nice fitment, only a little close to the trunk bottom but that's it.
Closeup of the CoAxial joint.
Super sweet endlink in case you never seen them before.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 6ghatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OT: Does anyone know if other swaybars will fit onto the Comptech Tie bar/base? I was looking to see if I could upgrade my Comptech 22mm to a Mugen 24mm (or some other 23mm or 24mm make) and still use the comptech base.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Supposedly, the 22mm and 23 ITR sways fit with their respective bushings. So, I would see no reason why the larger Mugen bar wouldn't fit if you get the one for the ITR and get the swaybar bushings.
Supposedly, the 22mm and 23 ITR sways fit with their respective bushings. So, I would see no reason why the larger Mugen bar wouldn't fit if you get the one for the ITR and get the swaybar bushings.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Geratol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here are some pics of the installed product:
Super sweet endlink in case you never seen them before.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup, just need to move that sucker in 1 more position
Nice looking piece.
Super sweet endlink in case you never seen them before.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Yup, just need to move that sucker in 1 more position
Nice looking piece.
that's a very interesting design. i've never seen this type of anti-roll bar before. would you (or anyone else) mind explaining a little more in depth if you can the 'coaxial' aspect of the center bar that's adjustable? i'm just trying to learn a little more... thanks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WiggiE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Supposedly, the 22mm and 23 ITR sways fit with their respective bushings. So, I would see no reason why the larger Mugen bar wouldn't fit if you get the one for the ITR and get the swaybar bushings.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can go up to 25mm before the bushing bracket changes to a substantially larger size.
Supposedly, the 22mm and 23 ITR sways fit with their respective bushings. So, I would see no reason why the larger Mugen bar wouldn't fit if you get the one for the ITR and get the swaybar bushings.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can go up to 25mm before the bushing bracket changes to a substantially larger size.
looks familiar!
Grassroots is using that on their 02 Project Si.
http://www.grassrootsmotorspor....html
Grassroots is using that on their 02 Project Si.
http://www.grassrootsmotorspor....html
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by frogsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that's a very interesting design. i've never seen this type of anti-roll bar before. would you (or anyone else) mind explaining a little more in depth if you can the 'coaxial' aspect of the center bar that's adjustable? i'm just trying to learn a little more... thanks.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
after thinking about it some more, i think i've figured out the center adjustments... i guess the sleeved center bar is adjustable along a horizontal axis/line, so lengthening it effectively increases stiffness/spring rate of the bar further, right?
</TD></TR></TABLE>after thinking about it some more, i think i've figured out the center adjustments... i guess the sleeved center bar is adjustable along a horizontal axis/line, so lengthening it effectively increases stiffness/spring rate of the bar further, right?
so I got a couple of questions:
1- how do you keep your nice spiffy heim joints clean? I used to have them on the ol' Z.speed sway bar and they pretty much froze up within a month. Accumulated crud destroyed them.
(2 sets...) I gave up and used the stock end link. Works fine even though I cannot adjust it to eliminate pre-load.
2- looks like if you move to the last setting inward, the joint may start binding there. It seems that you should try to keep the endlink as vertical as possible?
My whole experience with the heim joints was not a very positive one. They may be fine for a race car, but for a daily driven vehicle - they are too high-maintenance for my personal taste - then again, maybe I am just a moron who hasn't figured out the proper care and feeding of the equipment (wouldn't be the first time...
)
Other than that, looks nice. Please do tell how well it works!
1- how do you keep your nice spiffy heim joints clean? I used to have them on the ol' Z.speed sway bar and they pretty much froze up within a month. Accumulated crud destroyed them.
(2 sets...) I gave up and used the stock end link. Works fine even though I cannot adjust it to eliminate pre-load.2- looks like if you move to the last setting inward, the joint may start binding there. It seems that you should try to keep the endlink as vertical as possible?
My whole experience with the heim joints was not a very positive one. They may be fine for a race car, but for a daily driven vehicle - they are too high-maintenance for my personal taste - then again, maybe I am just a moron who hasn't figured out the proper care and feeding of the equipment (wouldn't be the first time...
)Other than that, looks nice. Please do tell how well it works!
The reason everything was so clean was because I had just installed them. I'll try checking on them regularly to see if any crud builds up on them.
If you're interested in buying one you will need to contact Comptech directly. I'm not going to say exactly how much it costs but to give you a rough estimate look at the same bar for the RSX. It's more then that.
If you're interested in buying one you will need to contact Comptech directly. I'm not going to say exactly how much it costs but to give you a rough estimate look at the same bar for the RSX. It's more then that.
Weekend Review:
I thought I would be able to give a good review this weekend but we had a huge rain storm on Saturday during our autox school then on Sunday it was supposed to rain just as much so I left my race tires at home. When it was time for my run group it had stopped raining and the course had dried up. So there I was stuck on street tires with low pressures and nothing I could do about it.
The car pushed a bit but no more then I think it would have with my old bar. This weekend will hopefully be dry and I can really test the bar then.
Modified by Geratol at 9:12 AM 4/14/2003
I thought I would be able to give a good review this weekend but we had a huge rain storm on Saturday during our autox school then on Sunday it was supposed to rain just as much so I left my race tires at home. When it was time for my run group it had stopped raining and the course had dried up. So there I was stuck on street tires with low pressures and nothing I could do about it.
The car pushed a bit but no more then I think it would have with my old bar. This weekend will hopefully be dry and I can really test the bar then.
Modified by Geratol at 9:12 AM 4/14/2003
So, did you go out canyon car... I mean autocrossing this weekend and give it an old fashioned trial by fire? Impressions? Pros? Cons? Ex-Cons? Gimme the skinny!
EDIT : For being a moron and posting this RIGHT after Geratol posted the answer....
EDIT : For being a moron and posting this RIGHT after Geratol posted the answer....


