Just got my new set of Cobalt brake rotors. I've never done the rotors before, and while I'm sure it is easy, I wanted to check here to be sure there isn't more to it than I am thinking... anything I should be aware of? What is the best way to hang the calipers without bungee cords?

 

-inpact screwdriver for the two phillips screws (or a drill to drill them out)
-17mm (caliper bracket)
-14mm (caliper)
-stuff to remove the wheel
-hammer to bang the rotors off if they are rusted on
-metal clothes hanger (bent to suit) for the caliper support

 

coat hangers
also use one of those impact drivers to get those rotor screws out.

<edit will beat me>

 

Craftsman sells a tool that goes on the end of a 3/8 ratchet that fits our rotor screws perfectly. That is what i used to get mine out that were so hard after using a screwdriver and a hammer.

I just let the caliper itself sit on top of the dustshield (carefully place it to make sure it doesn't fall off if you nudge it or whatever. I am sure the clothes hanger will do the trick as well.

 

Here's a pic of the impact screwdriver.

i can't find a URL for one but i got it from home depot for < $20

here's a howto from bseries too (with a bigger version of the pic )

 

Oh also if those rotors are rusted to the hub then they may not come right off with a hammer. Notice on the rotor there's two holes for screws and two other holes. These other holes accept a M8x1.25 bolt - pick up a handful at lowes/home despot/etc - thread them in and apply torque evenly to them and the rotor will pop off the hub.

Much less noisy and effortless than the hammer.

 

The front seat bolts are 8x1.25, also.

 

so are the caliper bolts.

but the first time you mushroom a bolt because the rotor was really rusted on you'll wish you spent $1 at lowes.

 

True.

Here's to living in a non-rusty area of the nation!

(Having worked on my friend's Michigan-homed car, I can safely say I will never move to anywhere similar.)

 

Cool, thanks guys...

 

excellent!!...I needed this too!

 

here u can also check out the diy section on here... http://student.ucr.edu/~ohe02

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdcdragon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here u can also check out the diy section on here... http://student.ucr.edu/~ohe02
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Helped me out a lot.

 

Oh also if those rotors are rusted to the hub then they may not come right off with a hammer. Notice on the rotor there's two holes for screws and two other holes. These other holes accept a M8x1.25 bolt - pick up a handful at lowes/home despot/etc - thread them in and apply torque evenly to them and the rotor will pop off the hub.
Much less noisy and effortless than the hammer.

man i am glad that i am not the only one that knew
that.......

 

a rubber mallet i think will work as well.. hehe... not as noisy as a regular metal hammer... and alot more fun than metric bolts hehe..

 

Is it necessary to remove the pads from the calipers when changing rotors?

 

nope
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flux &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it necessary to remove the pads from the calipers when changing rotors?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

damn, those 17mm caliper bolts are a bitch to get off....

 

oh yeah they're on pretty good. After all they are 80 ft/lbs
i use a breaker bar or put a pipe on the end of my ratchet handle for more leverage to get them off. also the 1st time I got them off I coated them with anti-seize which made it easier.
LOL- not to insult your intelligence, but use a 6 pt 17mm socket. The 1st time I tried I was using a 12 pt socket and it wouldn't grab. on me.

 

Second the breaker bar and 6 pt socket. Worth spending the extra $ to buy if you can't borrow them.

Pipe on the ratchet will work, but you can easily damage the ratchet mechanism.

Penetrant if you still cant get them loose after that.

 

did you check my site like i told you? wat suggestions i have to make that easier is use a 1/2" drive ratchet instead of teh smaller 3/8" and use plenty of pb blaster before hand... and if all else fails use a breaker bar with the 1/2" drive ratchet.

As for the pads... you will not necessarily need to remove the pads if i recall correctly, but either way, removeing n replacing pads is something you can do if you are capable enough to say insert a cd into a stereo.. its that easy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdcdragon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you check my site like i told you? wat suggestions i have to make that easier is use a 1/2" drive ratchet instead of teh smaller 3/8" and use plenty of pb blaster before hand... and if all else fails use a breaker bar with the 1/2" drive ratchet.

As for the pads... you will not necessarily need to remove the pads if i recall correctly, but either way, removeing n replacing pads is something you can do if you are capable enough to say insert a cd into a stereo.. its that easy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, I did check your site and it was great, thanks. And I can change pads very easily, but I didn't want to pull them out if I didn't need to...

 

glad i was of some help.. so is the install completed now then? how do you like ur new brakes??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdcdragon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">glad i was of some help.. so is the install completed now then? how do you like ur new brakes?? </TD></TR></TABLE>

No, I couldn't get the caliper bolts off... going to Sears on monday for more equipment...

 

i just changed my rotors friday night..replaced w/cobalt rotors.
those bracket bolts were a pain to get off.. i didn't have much room to work with (i just jacked up the car). i just put a rachet there, covered it with a rag, and either used a hammer on it on the passenger side or used my floor jack to "twist" it on the driver side