For the short version read the bold:

just got back from my garage and i'm very happy. i was over at my friends house the other weekend who has an 11 sec. mustang and we did some basic tune-up **** then took it out for a test drive. he said it wasnt feeling right so we went back and adjusted the timing and took it back out and wow it felt different..

so anyways i was bored tonight, and figuered...why don't i go adjust my timing to see if i can get similar results? so i loosed the 3 bolts on the distributor (1990 Accord f22a4) and rotated it back towards the firewall roughly 2-3mm which is 2-3 degrees. i tightened the bolts back up and then started it up to see if it knocked. it sounded fine so i took it out on the road and did a quick 1/4 run, and it was amazing. this took me a whole 5 minutes yet i could feel the results. its not like it feels like i put a 50 shot on it or anything, but i could definately tell the difference alot more than i thought. just thought i would share my expeirence with this little free mod, so someone else can benefit from it.

 

advancing your ignition past a certian point will give you more low end and some mid range but does kill up top (torque falls off like a rock)

 

"advancing your ignition past a certian point will give you more low end and some mid range but does kill up top (torque falls off like a rock)"

are you trying to say "door swing both ways, bitch!" ?
lol

 

i took that thing up to redline and it felt way better. best it felt was probably 3-4.5k though..

 

when you advance your timing, shouldn't it be a good idea to run higher octane gasoline?

 

yea, definately. i'm running 91. basically anything above 90 is about right. its not like the timing is way out of wack though. only 2-3 degrees.

 

ok just making sure...i know you also need to use higher octane gasoline whenver you increase the compression(I.E higher compression pistons AND/OR thinner head gasket)

 

You can get away with advanced timing on plus-level gas since our compression is so low.

 

FYI this doesnt work with OBD2 cars (96 and up).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by niedejb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FYI this doesnt work with OBD2 cars (96 and up).

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I can confirm that statement. The distributor will not rotate. The timing is controlled by the ECU.

 

yea, i might have forgot to mention i have a 1990 accord. obviously ODB1. do you guys think this will have similar results on my h22a even though it has higher compression?

 

then is it true that obdII cars can not advance their timing?

 

You'll have to have a stand alone ecu or something that can correct the timing to the distributor (like an aftermarket ignition system...although I believe they only retard).

 

Yup, you can't advance/retard the timing via the distributor in OBDII cars. When I went and had my car dyno'd the guy tried advancing my timing and then realized that he couldn't do anything. It was pretty funny, at least he didn't charge me for the half-hour he played around trying to change the timing. heh.

 

how do you advance the timeing? just take the distro off and move the arm forward/back?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mage &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do you advance the timing? just take the distro off and move the arm forward/back?</TD></TR></TABLE>

loosen the bolts that attach your distributor to your cylinder head and turn it back slightly. 1mm=1 degree. i wouldnt go back more than 4 or so. if you advance the timing run a higher octane, and make sure the engine doesnt ping. if it does pull the distributor back towards you until its better.

btw: i guess i wouldnt really recommend inexpeirenced ppl do it, because you don't want to screw anything up. its not hard to do at all, but you might sacrafice more engine wear and worse gas mileage. the only reason i did it, is b/c my h22a will be arriving soon, and i wanted to expeirement with my f22 a little.

 

thanks for the info I'll park it and mess with it, I dont care about the engine it's a f22a1 with 160K on it and it's about to go plus I have 3 engine close buy I can pick up for cheap. I run 93 octane.

 

what do you recommend if i want to advance my timing but have a obdII? What are my options?

 

A stand alone ECU like hondata or AEM EMS.

 

You can't use Hondata with OBDII, so he'd have to convert anyhow. I don't think the EMS is compatible either, but I'm not as familiar.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smuggy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

loosen the bolts that attach your distributor to your cylinder head and turn it back slightly. 1mm=1 degree. i wouldnt go back more than 4 or so. if you advance the timing run a higher octane, and make sure the engine doesnt ping. if it does pull the distributor back towards you until its better.
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I opened my hood and I don't see how the distributor is going to rotate by just loosening the bolts. It looks like it's pretty snug in its present position.

 

well, can someone tell me what do i have to do then to advance the timing on a obdII?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fe519 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, can someone tell me what do i have to do then to advance the timing on a obdII?</TD></TR></TABLE>

AEM EMS (i BELIEVE you can advance it)
Jet Vforce box (IMHO, junk)
Techtom tune (expensive)
Venom 400 (IMHO, junk)
and maybe the HKS AFRR (not sure)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fe519 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, can someone tell me what do i have to do then to advance the timing on a obdII?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by niedejb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A stand alone ECU like hondata or AEM EMS.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

ok here's another:

Haltech E6K or the E6H & E6M