Did a search,nothing came up.
I have a Clutchmaster stage 3 on a ls tranny in my civic Si. I just bought the car last friday and it is for the most part stock.(except for the ls engine) I was wondering if I should just leave the clutch on there till its time for a new one. Than get a stock one, or is it going to wear out the tranny faster with having this clutchmaster on there and that is kinda unessesary because the engine only has about 140hp.

 

It does not harm the tranny. Once you have it in gear and release the clutch, the clutch is taking all the abuse. However, if you're cramming it into gear and grinding it, that's where tranny damage comes from.

As for replacing the clutch when it's time, a stock Honda clutch will handle most reasonable amounts of power thrown at it. Unless you're going FI, a stock clutch will be just fine.

 

I would say keep the clutch in there. The only way you're going to beat up the tranny is if you are constantly dumping the clutch and shifting hard. If you take it easy you'll be fine. I have a clutchmasters stage 3 also, and it is a little overkill for what I need but its very streetable (not too much increased pedal pressure) and it won't harm anything. It should last a long time too because the stage 3 has the kevlar clutch disk .
Now if you had a clutch with a puck disk it would be another story....

 

the heaviest pressure plate you would need for a Honda NA application is an
ITR stock peice. anything more than that on an LS or Si diff I do not recommend
if you dump gears hard. IE if you drag race, etc. I have seen LS and Si diffs break on for instance ACT Xtreme pressure plates, as well as axles. The axles and diff gear in the Si and LS trannys are not nearly as robust as the GSR, I have seen them both and it is actually comical. The spider gear in the GSR diff is almost twice the size. This is the gear that takes the TQ and puts it to the axles. An oversprung clutch plate can also put undue stress on the crank. The trust bearings that keep the crank in place will see much more stress with a 1600psi and up pressure plate, when you get into the 2100s and up thats when you really see potential for damage. Especially if you like to hear your 2nd and 3rd, 4th gears chirp when you drive. One of three things can happen:

Engine damage: ie premature rod/main bearing failure
Differential Gear damage
Axles Breaking

I suggest the stock ITR PP and TOB with an upgraded kevlar faced disk.
IM Nimhist id you have any questions. He went through this recently
in his Si and loves this clutch combination. I guarantee his clutch wont
need servicing for a long time which means... more money spent where
he wants it.

 

i got a clutchmasters stage 4 in my eg, and the tranny is fine, but what i noticed it ate up my presure plate and flywheel, becuase in stead of blowing the diff when launching at 8500 rpm, i slip the cltuch and it takes up the slack in the diff, but then i rubs on the flywheel and presure plate. i got a b16 in my car

and my friend with act hd, blew 2 diff's on 2 runs, he didnt slip the clutch at all, he had a eg with d16z6

 

you launch at 8500 rpm? isnt that a lot? for anybody out there, what rpm is ok to launch at that wont harm the tranny? just wondering

 

dude CM stg 3 is harmless. The clutch disc is segmented kevlar ..that **** lasts forever! (only if you break it in correctly). The kevlar is smooth engaging. Kevlar also takes most of the stress instead of shocking the drivetrain.
Once you move above CM stg 3, its a different story..

 

I dont know people are more experienced in here than me. but i just had my racing clutch installed the other day
its Exedy racing clutch when i change between the first and second the GEAR is heavy is like getting stock
dunna is it wrong installation or something else
or is it suppose to be like that

 

but launching at 8500 rpm gets me consistant 1.80 60' foots, its not hard on the tranny, cuz im slipping the clutch and taking the slack up in the diff

 

believe that all you want you will break it eventually