Well im finally about ready to start putting all the parts ive been collecting over winter to use I just have a couple questions first heres what I have to install:

oversized jdm itr pistons, skunk2 stage 1's, skunk2 cam gears, itr valvesprings, skunk2 retainers, skunk2 intake manifold, type r throttle body, act prolite (8.8 lbs), exedy organic clutch hondata 200b. And i already have aem CAI and a DC jdm 4-1 header and a 5zigen catback. Now the 3 things im undecided with are

1. should i use get new stock headbolts like $70 i think or some arps for like $115 (arps are reusable right?)
2. should I use a stock headgasket or mugen of spoon for some added comp according to the c-speed comp calc i would be at 11.4 with a stock headgasket and 11.7 with the 2 layer I dont think 11.7 tuned correctly with the hondata should impose any problems on pump gas but Im not sure.
3. should i go with oem main and rod bearings or go with acl ones
Sorry for the long post and Thanks for all replies

 

head studs are never reusable just to let you kno

 

def go with the arps

 

The stock head bolts are strong enough I assure you. Like 98mrgs-r said, you cant beat OEM honda parts(omit the y0 for not sounding like a rice boy).

 

1) In my opinion go with the ARP's, why slack the money- your baby deserves it! I have the ARP studs also... But with the numbers your gonna make you dont absolutely need them- so if your on a tight budget its not a neccesity.
2) More Compression the better! (atleast for you A/M punks!!! HAHAHA) I have the cometic head gasket, but its thicker, thus, blah blah blah. I needed the lower Compression-- to run 16 pounds on a STOCK (yes, i said stock! ) GS-R block. 16 psi?!? are you out of your mind ?!? ...Some say i am...But the ladies know me as "Mr. Danger"... Plus im trying to blow my number 3 piston straight "out - da - hood" As snoop would say. That way i know id have to come up with $4,000 to rebuild the bottom end the way i plan too... Just alot sooner.
2) part two) you will be fine on pump gas, just go with the best, in PA we get 94 at sunoco- whats the gas cituation like in ol' Minot ND?... And when your going to the track or have a "free-spirited" driving urge- just dump some octane booster in. It gives you (and the b18) the re-assurance.
3) Oem is fine

Ken

 

Sounds like a killer setup. My setup will be similar. But is there anyone that can tune Hondata in ND? I am headed to NDSU next fall.

 

As far as gas in Minot shitty 91 octane is all you can get . And no as of now no one in ND can tune hondata Ill be road tripping to either Elite in Minneapolis or I heard Souix Falls has a hondata tuner not for sure though. Anyone else no of any other hondata tuners in the midwest region?

 

I just have 1 question about your setup and that is why did u go with the EXEDY ORGANINC?? You should of least upgraded to there Racing Clutch!!

 

How much power you think he's gunna make there ? Lol...

ARP advised the head studs can be used as many as 3 times, with torque specs changing each time if necessary... just so you know.

You don't NEED ARP head studs for this, but they are a nice touch. You also won't NEED ARP rod bearings and DEFINITELY don't require ARP main studs...

Your setup looks great and the headgasket to lower CR is good, leave the head a virgin whenever you can.

A 3 angle would be great now... with some fresh valve seals. You prolly also want to consider having the new oil pump bumped for some extra oil pressure. If you can spring for it... try to get the combustion chambers cleaned up (bowl work) It shouldn't be too costly and will eliminate potential hot spots (but you will lose a TINY bit of compression)

Last bit of advice... replace all the seals/gaskets possible NOW, including the plugs, vtec solenoid, etc...

X2 (good luck)

 

hey X2-
You prolly also want to consider having the new oil pump bumped for some extra oil pressure
J/C- for my own sake, can you go into this a little more? What do you think about the after market for oil pumps out there. Moroso dry sump kit is ooossooonnice

 

Moroso dry sump is great...but it's

1) Maad expensive.
2) Complicated to install.
3) Most motors just don't call for that level of modification... honestly..

Bumping the oil pressure on a stock pump is a common engine builder's trick. Basically you can have the pump spring shimmed and that will cause the pump to increase oil pressure while running in stock form. If you've disassembled/reassembled a honda pump, you should be able to do it... but leaving it to an experienced builder is generally best. (simple, easy, cheap mod)

X2

 

Thanks for all the replies I do have one other quick question though I have a new str blockgaurd laying around that I was going to put in just for a little extra protection just in case something goes wrong sometime to help save the block but Ive heard that they pretty much dont protect anything and might actually cuase more harm then good by blocking coolant flow???

 

I have the Race Engineering unit in the teg, although it is welded in....not just 'tapped' or dropped in.

The running temperature has gone up some and the engine does feel a little hotter than it would stock. I plan to remedy this by going with a better thermostat OR upgrading the stock fan. In the meantime, it's running well.

As far as no protection from the blockguard, that's not true... at least if it's installed correctly.

A properly installed B/G should be welded in and have the block align honed, BUT if you can't do this and want to put one in on an already assembled block, you must understand that not all blocks (even same engine codes) are not the exact same due to casting imperfections/differences. Because of this, you should have the block guard fitted to the water jacket. This is done by filing the B/G so that it drops into the space. B/G's should NOT be tapped into place... if it is... the B/G is too big and needs to be filed down to fit properly/snug.

X2