Cam Question: Need your help
Hey guys-
Here is my current setup of my ITR:
- Full port and polish (head and throttle body)
- Fully balanced and blueprinted bottom end
- Knife-edge crank
- High compression (12.15:1) Wiseco forged pistons and wrist pins
Mugen Oil pan
Mugen Valve Springs
Mugen 4-1 Header
Mugen Twin Loop Exhaust
Mugen Thermostat
Spoon Radiator Stay
Spoon Radiator Hose set
AEM Cold air intake
AEM Pulleys
AEM Cam gear
If you had your choice of cams, which would you pick (and why)? I am seriously considering these combinations:
PACKAGE 1:
Toda Spec B
Toda Valvesprings
Toda Timing Belt
Toda Cam Gears
PACKAGE 2:
Skunk2 Stage 1 Cams
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
Should I be considering anything else? The car will be daily driven, tracked every other weekend for the summer (stored for winter months). I am aiming for a reliable 215 whp with no idling problems. I will be adding a Hondata into the mix as well. Your opinions are greatly appreicated. Thanks.
[Modified by Michael, 12:10 AM 4/4/2003]
Here is my current setup of my ITR:
- Full port and polish (head and throttle body)
- Fully balanced and blueprinted bottom end
- Knife-edge crank
- High compression (12.15:1) Wiseco forged pistons and wrist pins
Mugen Oil pan
Mugen Valve Springs
Mugen 4-1 Header
Mugen Twin Loop Exhaust
Mugen Thermostat
Spoon Radiator Stay
Spoon Radiator Hose set
AEM Cold air intake
AEM Pulleys
AEM Cam gear
If you had your choice of cams, which would you pick (and why)? I am seriously considering these combinations:
PACKAGE 1:
Toda Spec B
Toda Valvesprings
Toda Timing Belt
Toda Cam Gears
PACKAGE 2:
Skunk2 Stage 1 Cams
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
Should I be considering anything else? The car will be daily driven, tracked every other weekend for the summer (stored for winter months). I am aiming for a reliable 215 whp with no idling problems. I will be adding a Hondata into the mix as well. Your opinions are greatly appreicated. Thanks.
[Modified by Michael, 12:10 AM 4/4/2003]
just get skunk2 stage 2 cams.....you already have a built valvetrain so your set.
you dont need the intake manifold its basically a copy of your current one with some minor porting. just get your stock one... extrude honed.
you dont need the intake manifold its basically a copy of your current one with some minor porting. just get your stock one... extrude honed.
wouldnt waste too much on a skunk manifold since its a copy of your stock manifold. but i would go skunk stage 2, with valvetrain. i have skunk2 stage 1's in my GSR and like them alot, but i know that they dont make anymore power @ around 8400. with hondata, that would be a waste. the 2's go much higher
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Where did you get Mugen titanium valvesprings? I didn't know they made them.
Of your two choices - get the TODAs. If you already have high compression - I would go with the TODA C's instead of the B's as you are aiming for very high power output (i.e. 215 whp) and you should get the biggest cams you can get.
You are definitely going to have to add new, bigger injectors to your list of purchases. 310 cc/min minimum. 440 cc/min is also popular.
Of your two choices - get the TODAs. If you already have high compression - I would go with the TODA C's instead of the B's as you are aiming for very high power output (i.e. 215 whp) and you should get the biggest cams you can get.
You are definitely going to have to add new, bigger injectors to your list of purchases. 310 cc/min minimum. 440 cc/min is also popular.
Where did you get Mugen titanium valvesprings? I didn't know they made them.
Hmmm... Have you considered toda A's? If you care more for daily driving go for the A's or the stage 1's. If you really want to be competitive at the track, go for the B's. But expect the lumpy goodness. With a good tuner you will be able to daily drive these, but it will be alot harder to maintain, and also be prepared for occasional stalling. I had the b's in my b16 and i hated them for daily driving, i had to run the fan and my headlights just so i wouldn't stall at a stoplight. I also had to lean the fock out of it at idle with the vafc (~26%). But the B's have the killer midrange, oh god did i love that midrange. I'm planning on putting some Toda A's in my b18c5.
definetly get some bigger injectors
no need to buy a skun2 intake manifold because you already have the itr IM; skunk2 IM=itr IM
you also could pick up
-hondata intake manifold gasket
-sell aem cai, and get mugen intake
otherwise you have a killer bottom end ready to make some power
I would take this with a grain of salt, I know many people running b's who are very happy with them and with no problems listed above.
expect to spend at least 2-4 hours from start to end on the dyno getting it tuned properly
no need to buy a skun2 intake manifold because you already have the itr IM; skunk2 IM=itr IM
you also could pick up
-hondata intake manifold gasket
-sell aem cai, and get mugen intake
otherwise you have a killer bottom end ready to make some power
Hmmm... Have you considered toda A's? If you care more for daily driving go for the A's or the stage 1's. If you really want to be competitive at the track, go for the B's. But expect the lumpy goodness. With a good tuner you will be able to daily drive these, but it will be alot harder to maintain, and also be prepared for occasional stalling. I had the b's in my b16 and i hated them for daily driving, i had to run the fan and my headlights just so i wouldn't stall at a stoplight. I also had to lean the fock out of it at idle with the vafc (~26%). But the B's have the killer midrange, oh god did i love that midrange. I'm planning on putting some Toda A's in my b18c5.
expect to spend at least 2-4 hours from start to end on the dyno getting it tuned properly
With a good tuner you will be able to daily drive these, but it will be alot harder to maintain, and also be prepared for occasional stalling. I had the b's in my b16 and i hated them for daily driving, i had to run the fan and my headlights just so i wouldn't stall at a stoplight.
Yeah i never really had mine tuned properly. Jack just roughly tuned mine when i had them put in. I was running yoshio's toda b program and never had it dyno tuned. Although i did take it to they dyno my self a few times to play around with the vafc. The b16a2 is a very differnt engine then the c5 though. I think im gonna get the A's because i can't afford to buy that damn toda valvetrain again
[Modified by VTHokie, 12:09 AM 4/4/2003]
[Modified by VTHokie, 12:09 AM 4/4/2003]
I'd love to get a Mugen intake, but cams come first. Whether I go with the TODA, Skunk, or JUN cams...you can bet that they will be installed and tuned by an expert. I have heard of the stalling problem with the Bs, but I'm counting on the install and tuning to have everything to run smoothly.
Now, let me ask you this (dumb) question: if you can get the Skunk2 cams for free, or get the TODA stuff for under dealer cost, which would you get? Keep in mind that neither the Skunk of TODA stuff cannot be installed then sold off within the period of one year. Does that affect your choice at all?
Now, let me ask you this (dumb) question: if you can get the Skunk2 cams for free, or get the TODA stuff for under dealer cost, which would you get? Keep in mind that neither the Skunk of TODA stuff cannot be installed then sold off within the period of one year. Does that affect your choice at all?
Mike: It depends who you ask. As you can see some people say toda some say skunk 2 some say Jun. If you just want the best all around power, Toda B or C. If you want somthing a little more subtle and reliable with killer top end skunk 2 or Jun III ( very close in preformance ). So basically its up to you to decide from there. What your aiming for is a little too much to ask. Your not gonna get 215whp out of skunk2 stage 1's (stage 2's are more in your alley) and if you do get 215 whp out of the toda's your definetly not gonna have stock idle.
[Modified by ITR21, 7:16 AM 4/4/2003]
[Modified by ITR21, 7:19 AM 4/4/2003]
[Modified by ITR21, 7:16 AM 4/4/2003]
[Modified by ITR21, 7:19 AM 4/4/2003]
I would suggest the TODA Bs or even the Cs. And yes, the car can, if tuned properly, still make the most power possible and idle just fine. I have run Cs for three years now, and not problems since I put them in and tuned them.
As for the 215 with your setup, I think the Cs will make that and then some, the Bs may fall just short, I have been wrong in the past, Bs may do just fine.
BTW, if you are looking for a TODA valve train, let me know, I am selling mine...
Jason
As for the 215 with your setup, I think the Cs will make that and then some, the Bs may fall just short, I have been wrong in the past, Bs may do just fine.
BTW, if you are looking for a TODA valve train, let me know, I am selling mine...
Jason
Could somebody just give me an explanation of the difference between
Toda Spec B's and C's?
As the car will be a daily driver and an occasional weekend warrior, what sort of difference can you expect between the two?
Ie. Idle, reliability, etc. (assuming of course it is tuned professionaly!)
Your comments would be greatly appreciated as I am in the same market.
Toda Spec B's and C's?
As the car will be a daily driver and an occasional weekend warrior, what sort of difference can you expect between the two?
Ie. Idle, reliability, etc. (assuming of course it is tuned professionaly!)
Your comments would be greatly appreciated as I am in the same market.
Could somebody just give me an explanation of the difference between
Toda Spec B's and C's?
As the car will be a daily driver and an occasional weekend warrior, what sort of difference can you expect between the two?
Ie. Idle, reliability, etc. (assuming of course it is tuned professionaly!)
Your comments would be greatly appreciated as I am in the same market.
Toda Spec B's and C's?
As the car will be a daily driver and an occasional weekend warrior, what sort of difference can you expect between the two?
Ie. Idle, reliability, etc. (assuming of course it is tuned professionaly!)
Your comments would be greatly appreciated as I am in the same market.
Hey guys-
Here is my current setup of my ITR:
[Modified by Michael, 12:10 AM 4/4/2003]
Here is my current setup of my ITR:
[Modified by Michael, 12:10 AM 4/4/2003]
Michael, wtf is that 5 sparkplug wires coming out of your distributor? I don't have an itr but i do have an itr motor, and my chit doesn't look like that
The difference between B's and C's is entirely in the vtec lobe. Primary lobes are the same, so both have the potential to idle identically, depending on the set up.
Would you recommend getting the cams first with stock pistons, or getting a set of high compression pistons first and then getting the cams?
which would you pick (and why)?
Should I be considering anything else? The car will be daily driven, tracked every other weekend for the summer (stored for winter months).
[Modified by Michael, 12:10 AM 4/4/2003]
exactly like I use my R... weekend tracking and daily driving...
I know, you are heading for more bang. I had two cam setups before in my former motor and put down 195whp (229 crank PS).. But that better engine power has not been the big thing on track. The boys with the grin on their faces ran stock engines but perfect suspension setups... So I made up my mind.
I repeat: You TRACK your car, you are NOT dragging, Is this right ?
So please think of sticking with your current motor setup and spending your money in some suspension and balance work (will make you a LOT faster than 30hp power gain)
If I had to choose an afternarket cam for track racing today again, I would go for the JUN stage 2.. More 5500-8800rpm related and a very good road/street cam.
If you run Toda b (up to 9500rpm) on track you will wind the **** out of your engine I guess..
Just my 2 cents...



Drinker