It is an easy job to install, will go on the dyno and test out the power without water injection and with water injection activated at end of April I hope. I installed an on/off switch into the cockpit too, cause if the water tank gets empty the pump can be damaged. Also a little light will tell me if the system is spraying or not. I installed the 0.8mm Nozzle right after the IC into the piping. There are 3 Nozzles included 0.7, 0.8 and 0.9mm. I will adjust the included MAP Sensor to about 0.7 Bar, that means while boosting more than 0.7 Bar the system is activated and spraying. I want to spray water to compensate the huge power lost when the air temp is realy hot outside. The water can be mixed with methanol which has about 113 octane.

Here are some infos on the System 1s I got. http://www.aquamist.co.uk/


[Modified by austrian type-R, 3:23 PM 3/24/2003]

 

How much did this run you?

 

hmm...keep us updated... been wondering about this for a while. I still the MF2 I uninstalled from my car a while back...should work with the water injectors too

 

i should test that with my hondata... can datalog the intake temps and stuff.. be interesting to see.. i just dont know if i could let myself spray water into my intake pipes.. something messes up then your up **** creek

 

Have you driven with the system yet?
How does it feel?

<says hypa, who has the same system sitting on his shelf>

 

i'm very interested to hear the results

 

I need to find a damn place in my engine bay for a water tank, also I have to do wire up the switch in the cockpit. For sure I will keep you guy updated

 

ttt...whats the verdict?...worth the $$$?

 

Hate to be negative , But I have done alot of testing with JRSC and verious ways of making more power with less temps.
The water injection will allow you to run a little more timming, You will loose power with water runnning even with more timming. Water doesn't burn , it takes up space where fuel and air could be.
If you do two runs back to back with and without the water you will see for yourself . That's why we spent so much time developing our intercooler.

I have two water injections kits for sale if anyone doesn't agree with me. $ 350 each.


[Modified by CRVRX, 2:08 PM 3/29/2003]

 

Well, thanks for your info, but I will test it out my self too.

 

update?

 

I probably won't be using this, but would still like to know if its worth it too...

 

when I activate it, I can feel nothing and the intake temps are not going lower, I saw this on the datalog of the Haltech ECU.....well, perhaps it is cause I spray the water only about 1 feet before the temp sensor.

I have to go on the dyno to check this, but no time the next few weeks.

 

so you rekon its a waste of money?

 

we hooked up an aquamist system on a 800+hp supra last week and let me tell you it works. we only tested it to make sure it was working. we tapped in in the middle of a pull and it made 60hp over the previous pull just tapping it.

 

generally water injection will help you if you have high intake temps, or are trying to intercool a lot of hot air (high boost)

if you're running... like 10 lbs on a t04e with a front mount... it's not going to help much..

But if you are putting down some seroius horsepower, water injection will definately help...

 

how much did u pay for that, just want to know if its cheaper to buy from uk or usa, i have friends coming from there all the time so no custom charges

 

I bought it used from USA for about 250 bucks. Well, my butt dyno can not tell if it gives me 20hp or not or even more, cause I make 400 to the wheels and I boost 17-22psi on the T3/T04e hybrid, so the revs climbs that quick, I can not say if I gain some numbers or not. Like I said, have to test it on the dyno.

If it does not work, I will install some nozzles and spray my IC with it, like the EVO has it stock

 

i was just talking to someone w/ a turbo merkur and he loves the AM kit more thank anything...but hes talking about serious boost. he said it would detonate at 24psi and now runs over 30....big numbers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by austrian type-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I need to find a damn place in my engine bay for a water tank, also I have to do wire up the switch in the cockpit. For sure I will keep you guy updated</TD></TR></TABLE>

Take a look at my sig. There is a picture in there of my new hybrid build up. I used a salvaged washer fluid bottle and modified the neck to fit against the passenger frame rail, just forward of the battery and bellow the intake. There is just enough room between the frame and the transmission housing to fit the bottle. Nice and stealth and it holds about a gallon of water. It keeps the plumbing real short also (the pump is now mounted on the fire wall above the brake lines.

If you are looking for a place for the bottle that is the best spot I have found.

P.S. I love the aquamist system. on my JRSC at 8 psi it keeps the intake temps bellow 150 in most cases

Now I just need to get the low fluid warning switch. I keep runnign out of fluid and I don't want to kill the pump. it makes this horrible grinding noise through the fire wall whenever it runs out.

Mike

 

What would be some other benefits of running water injection on a turbo car besides lowering the intake temps??? Would it have an impact on running a lower octain on higher boost????

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Screamer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What would be some other benefits of running water injection on a turbo car besides lowering the intake temps??? Would it have an impact on running a lower octain on higher boost???? </TD></TR></TABLE>

alky/water injection greatly decreases combustion temps, it basically has the effect of bumping up the octane of the gas you're running. I gotta say though, don't run straight water through your aquamist kit. That pump doesn't put out enough pressure to properly atomize straight distilled water, you'll get better results starting off with a 100% mix of denatured alcohol, then to 90/10 alky/water untill your car starts to bog, then take it down a notch.

 

hehe, I have already a place for my tank, I removed the airfilter to the inner fender, where the resonator camber is usualy on stock engine. Cold air suck in

 

Thanks, I also checked out their site and found this, very interesting stuff....



"Figure above shows cylinder pressure versus crank angle traces of cycles of different operating conditions. As suggested the above figure indicated four consecutive plots of cylinder pressure against crank-angle, ignition timing is three degrees apart between each trace. Knock primarily occurs under wide-open-throttle (WOT) operating conditions. It is thus a direct constraint on engine performance. It also constraint engine efficiency, since by effectively limiting the temperature and pressure of the end-gas, it limits the engine compression ratio or boost pressure on a forced induction engine.

Apart from using higher octane fuel or additives such as alcohols, lead alkyls. Another factor affecting the engine's tendency to knock lies upon the ability of the engine designer to achieve the normal combustion behavior while holding the engine's propensity to knock at a minimum.

As seen on the figure, the green trace represents the normal combustion cycle. If the ignition is advanced by some three degrees, a slight knock occurs on the yellow trace, indicates the engine has reached its limit. Further timing increase produced servere knock (red trace), this level of knock is audiable to the human ears, it should be prevented from happening for prolonged periods, as permanent engine damage can occur shortly afterwards.

The blue trace is placed approximately between the red trace and the yellow trace, ignition timing is around 6 degrees advanced of the normal green trace, but this time water is being injected into the engine. Before TDC, the blue trace followed a predictable path except soon after the TDC, the pressure begins to flatten. As the water within the combustion chamber started to evaporate and absorbed a large amount of the heat and prevented the pressure and temperature reaching the point of detonation. The trace now follows the green trace until the next cycle. Note the area under the blue trace is much larger than the green trace indicating torque increase. More gains are to be expected on the turbocharged engine. "

Pretty cool I got to tell you......

So does anyone have real experience pushing their engine to high boost with water injection on pump gas???? I would like to see the real potential of this system.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Screamer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So does anyone have real experience pushing their engine to high boost with water injection on pump gas???? I would like to see the real potential of this system.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was making 600+ RWHP out of my old mustang for a few weeks on 91 octane, 18 PSI and 9.5:1 compression. Block split in half from making too much power, not from detonation. There are tons of buick guys running 24+ PSI on pump gas on mild modded motors, and there's a guy on supraforums.com saying he ran 30 PSI out of a greddy T78 on 91 octane.