how hard is it to actually turn your crank when you just get the crank and mains together?? does it take ALOT of force or can you pretty much do it by hand?
thanks


[Modified by eddiecut, 9:06 PM 3/23/2003]

 

Should be just as easy as easy as any broken in motor. Assuming you lubricated everything..

Now if you have your timing belt on wrong....

 

You can measure break away torque with a torque wrench... Shouldn't be much more then 10 ft-lbs or so.

--
Tom

 

10 ft lbs with just the crank bolted down with the main caps on sounds kinda high....when you set the crank in the block without the caps bloted on, turn it like that and it should feel pretty close to that....did you check your clearances with plastigauge at all..or you can measure the main bore/crank journals for clearances also.

 

all that is in is the crank and the mains are on, an its way way hard to turn, doesnt seem normal

 

nope...take it apart and spray it all down with brake clean or something else to make sure all little dirt particals are flushed out then wipe dry with a clean rag. when you put the mains back on...start with the center one....torque it down to spec...and roll the crank..if its hard to turn you know you have a problem there....if it turns over nicely..work your way from the center out rolling the crank over each time to make sure everything is cherry....good luck

 

thanks

 

Plastiguage your clearances. It will tell you two things: if your clearances are too tight, and if the plastiguage is flatter on one side of the journals than the other ( it tapers), you need to have the block align bored.

 

Not the most scientific approach, but I typically look for about 1/8-1/4 free rotation when spun with your bare hand. (1/2-3/4 turns when building for race-only.....looser bearing clearances)


[Modified by GM2000ITR, 6:49 AM 3/26/2003]