FS: 93 Mazda RX-7 -- Red, Twin Turbo
I'm selling my baby. It's time for a change..
1993 Vintage Red FD RX-7
Twin Turbo
Touring Model (with R1 rear wing)
106,000mi (36k on remanufactured engine)
5 speed Manual
Tan Leather Interior
Brand new 225/50/16 Yokohama AVS ES100s
Aesthetic:
Knightsport front bumper w/4 foglights (stock front bumper provided to buyer, with R1 front lip)
99 JDM Taillights Mod
~13% tinted windows
Polarized windshield
Performance:
HKS Super Dragger catback
2.75" midpipe (stock cat provided to buyer)
K&N air filter
Greddy Turbo Timer
Crane plug wires
Pettit Racing ground strap
Optima Red Top battery
Steel braided clutch line
Hawk HP+ pads
EBC sport slotted and crosspitted front rotors
Bomz Strut Tower Bar
Included but not installed:
Boost guage
Autometer single guage pod
Veilside side skirts (painted)
Oil changed regularly (usually every 3k, but occasionally every 4k)
Parts that have been replaced recently:
Power Steering pump
Radiator (with new engine)
Clutch master cylinder
Clutch slave cylinder
Rear passenger brake caliper
Front sway bar mounts
I will include a full set of (used) BFG R1 race tires to the buyer. Interior is in great shape (no flaking like most 93s). Exterior is holding up well, there chips in the Knightsport front end, and it is cracked at the bottom. The undertray has been removed.
VIN: JM1FD3310P0205266
I'm pretty firm on $13000
(360) 201-9797 or nik@sledge-hammer.net
A whole mess of pictures available here (from before the knightsport front end, or side skirts)
http://www.fatboyraceworks.com/bham/


Modified by martini at 2:58 PM 4/30/2003
1993 Vintage Red FD RX-7
Twin Turbo
Touring Model (with R1 rear wing)
106,000mi (36k on remanufactured engine)
5 speed Manual
Tan Leather Interior
Brand new 225/50/16 Yokohama AVS ES100s
Aesthetic:
Knightsport front bumper w/4 foglights (stock front bumper provided to buyer, with R1 front lip)
99 JDM Taillights Mod
~13% tinted windows
Polarized windshield
Performance:
HKS Super Dragger catback
2.75" midpipe (stock cat provided to buyer)
K&N air filter
Greddy Turbo Timer
Crane plug wires
Pettit Racing ground strap
Optima Red Top battery
Steel braided clutch line
Hawk HP+ pads
EBC sport slotted and crosspitted front rotors
Bomz Strut Tower Bar
Included but not installed:
Boost guage
Autometer single guage pod
Veilside side skirts (painted)
Oil changed regularly (usually every 3k, but occasionally every 4k)
Parts that have been replaced recently:
Power Steering pump
Radiator (with new engine)
Clutch master cylinder
Clutch slave cylinder
Rear passenger brake caliper
Front sway bar mounts
I will include a full set of (used) BFG R1 race tires to the buyer. Interior is in great shape (no flaking like most 93s). Exterior is holding up well, there chips in the Knightsport front end, and it is cracked at the bottom. The undertray has been removed.
VIN: JM1FD3310P0205266
I'm pretty firm on $13000
(360) 201-9797 or nik@sledge-hammer.net
A whole mess of pictures available here (from before the knightsport front end, or side skirts)
http://www.fatboyraceworks.com/bham/

Modified by martini at 2:58 PM 4/30/2003
Rainman: I love your car, but I need cash to pay off the loan. Sorry.
PY01ITR42: I'm selling it because I'd like to spend my money elsewhere. And my driving record has gone to hell since I got this car. It's a magnet for more than just chicks.
PY01ITR42: I'm selling it because I'd like to spend my money elsewhere. And my driving record has gone to hell since I got this car. It's a magnet for more than just chicks.
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Sure. The engine came straight from Mazda USA. It was installed by University Mazda in seattle (one of the best dealerships in the country to take a rotary. The oldest mazda dealer on the west coast.).
Read more about rebuilt vs remanufactured here: http://www.cheap-auto-car-insurance-...lt_engines.htm
I can make a list of all that was replaced at the time of the engine. I have all the paperwork.
The reason the engine went out, is because the previous owner must not have used distilled water in the coolant. It deteriorated the coolant seals (call o-rings), and coolant started to leak into the combustion chamber, it soon overheated. This kind of failure is favorable to a blown apex seal, because often times, when you blow an apex seal, it will get spun through your turbos, and possibly taking them out with it.
Read more about rebuilt vs remanufactured here: http://www.cheap-auto-car-insurance-...lt_engines.htm
I can make a list of all that was replaced at the time of the engine. I have all the paperwork.
The reason the engine went out, is because the previous owner must not have used distilled water in the coolant. It deteriorated the coolant seals (call o-rings), and coolant started to leak into the combustion chamber, it soon overheated. This kind of failure is favorable to a blown apex seal, because often times, when you blow an apex seal, it will get spun through your turbos, and possibly taking them out with it.
So remanufactured is practically a brand new engine? I just had never seen the term, always rebuilt. I am interested im going to call on insurance rates tomorrow and see where Im at. I will let you know.
Do you have any estimated HP numbers?
Do you have any estimated HP numbers?
I'd estimate about 270 flywheel. But the boost spools up much quicker than stock. So the power band is longer.
I'll get more pictures of it (interior, engine, trunk, etc.)
I'll get more pictures of it (interior, engine, trunk, etc.)
Here is a video of the car being revved (parked) so that you can hear the exhaust tone. It's 3.5megs.
http://www.fatboyraceworks.com/~ndah...s/DSCF0243.AVI
Interior/Engine shots coming soon. And more video coming soon too. I just got a suction cup camera mount, so it's time to make a mini-movie.
http://www.fatboyraceworks.com/~ndah...s/DSCF0243.AVI
Interior/Engine shots coming soon. And more video coming soon too. I just got a suction cup camera mount, so it's time to make a mini-movie.
3000 is just fine, as long as the level is checked frequently (I check it every time I fill up the gas tank), and you make sure it's not low. Rotaries burn oil by design..
I can't vouch for previous owners, but since I've had it, and since the new engine, conventional oil has always been used. No synthetics. Valvoline Racing VR1 20w50 in the summer months, 10w30 in the colder months.
I can't vouch for previous owners, but since I've had it, and since the new engine, conventional oil has always been used. No synthetics. Valvoline Racing VR1 20w50 in the summer months, 10w30 in the colder months.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by martini »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3000 is just fine, as long as the level is checked frequently (I check it every time I fill up the gas tank), and you make sure it's not low. Rotaries burn oil by design..
I can't vouch for previous owners, but since I've had it, and since the new engine, conventional oil has always been used. No synthetics. Valvoline Racing VR1 20w50 in the summer months, 10w30 in the colder months.</TD></TR></TABLE>
sorry, i forgot about the it was a rotary engine....
I can't vouch for previous owners, but since I've had it, and since the new engine, conventional oil has always been used. No synthetics. Valvoline Racing VR1 20w50 in the summer months, 10w30 in the colder months.</TD></TR></TABLE>
sorry, i forgot about the it was a rotary engine....



