i want to do my first mod to my canadian R...#01-1312....i am thinking the mugen Sports Exhaust System, or the DC sports...are they the best???? thanks in advance for any help....funkiout.......

ITR 01-1312

 

If price isn't an issue, Mugen would be a good choice. I'd say, as a starting point, the stock exhaust isn't bad, and wouldn't be the place to start making changes, but something to help tune later. Have to know what the end result will be to make a good decision. If you will be doing some serious work to the engine, then a good exhaust will be helpful. If you are going to just do basic bolt ons, I would say start with an intake, and leave the stock exhaust for now.

I think you will find that many will recommend the OEM JDM 4-1 & a matching cat, and this is the route I have chosen as well.

 

Welcome to the ITR forum. You won't see many gains with a new exhaust. I would spend your $$ on other mods. Wheels (lightweight)/tires are a good upgrade. A high flow header (Mugen, Spoon, anything JDM style with the larger 2.5" collector will be an improvement).

 

I agree with YD. However, you have to realize that although the ITR stock exhaust is potent, it still contains two bottlenecks which will restrict the flow even with a JDM header. Something to consider...

 

Heh, I'll reply:

2.5" or bigger from the cat back...

Best exhaust is purely subjective.

It depends on your future mods, intended route to make power, budget, desired noise level/ sound, etc.

A good all-around choice is the thermal 3". If you go FI, you'll need it. If you stay NA, it's a bit of an overkill, but you'll have room to grow on and won't have to change it later! Also, you can get them to do the stealth mod to it so it won't be as loud. And it's not the most expensive exhaust out there either.

 

I think anything 2.5 is about as much as you need for NA. If you go 3 and never go FI, it may even hurt a little bit. Honestly, stock is pretty good. I'd get an exhaust for some sound. Don't expect much or even ANY gain from an aftermarket exhaust.

 

I'm running a Toda header, carsound cat, and Tanabe Racing Medallion exhaust. The Tanabe has eliminated the bottleneck at the axle-back section, but the front still remains. I'm scheduled to dyno mid-July with an adapter made by Dave at SMS that rids your car of the bottleneck from the cat to the b-pipe. I'm hoping to get some cheap hp from it, so we'll see what happens.

 

$30 custom 2.5" B-pipe! Stealthy...right Jason!

 

Definitely stealthy. Nobody's gonna see it comin'

How's the header feeling? Any coloring?

I just remembered, we didn't get any pics of you molesting it Oh well, save it for the AEM, right?


[Modified by TypeRJason, 8:26 PM 6/13/2001]

 

thanks for the info...i'm i think i am going to go with the jdm mugen header for now, and the exhaust next month...i couldn't find a thermal 3" for the type r, only for a gsr. would you guys think its a good idea to go with all mugen parts( acura will install and i get 30% off labour,honda associate discount, cost on stock parts)???
the link above itr-nc.com, jason with the JR supercharger....sick...thats a sweet *** ride..eat those mustangs....FORD SUCKS....thats my goal within the next 2 or so years...also the yellow matching rims look great...
thank you for everyones help.....funkiout.........
ITR 01-1312

 

Thanks for the on the yellow rims. That's the fiancee's car now However, it does not have a blower. If you're going to go the FI route, ie: supercharger/turbo, you'll definitely need a 3" exhaust in my opinion. In other words, the Mugen wouldn't be enough for you. Guys, help me out if I'm wrong on this one

 

The Mugen exhuast will be worthless if you go Forced Induction. PERIOD!

Why go with a JDM Mugen header, when the DC is a exact replicate of it and costs 550 less.

Boba-who tired of plugging DC, where's my endorsement check.

 

They make it. http://www.thermalrd.com (I think that's the right website).

Go ahead and call them up! They're really cool. I called when I had a problem with a weld and they fixed it up like new for me.

BTW, the ONLY way I would ever go 3" cat-back is if I were going FI. If not, 2.5" is the biggest IMO.

 

How about the A'pexi N1 exhaust? Is that available in 2.5 piping?

 

Jason, consider yourself helped out:

funki - if your plans are for FI (SC or Turbo), then you definitely want to get a 3" now. The exhaust will be a bottleneck if you're making ~240whp... Also, the mugen header won't be the best for you either... Kamikaze header is like ~$300 and what ENDYNE recommends for the JRSC - even their prototype ~400whp SC system uses it!

Advice to you: get a 2.5" or bigger exhaust now so you won't have to change it later and lose money in the process trying to sell a high dollar system to someone else.

Also, decide which direction you're going to go right now - if you will eventually go FI, make sure you go 3" and if you insist on getting a header right now while you're na, get a cheapie like the dc jdm 4-1 with 2.5" collector. That way you only spend a little $ and you can sell it later... Kamikaze for JRSC and Turbo kits have their own manifolds. You'll have to modify flanges on the cat/ test pipe you use, but Dave @ SMSP can do that for you easily.

And for the guy who said 3" will hurt your performance: Where do you get that notion from? Some backpressure theory? Why do people run with an open header at the track then?

 

I'd be THAT guy Ken.

IMO, unless you're going FI, he will drastically change his powerband with 3". It will feel gutless in the lower RPMs. Yes...no backpressure whatsoever.

 

Typically, guys that run an open header or headers(domestics) they are tuned for that main purpose. There can be some power loss with a FULL open exhuast on a street car.

 

Who make 2.5" exhaust piping for ITR? I think all aftermarket exhaust company from Japan has only 2.25" piping size!!

 

Well, YD don't get your panties in a wad... I was actually referring to jimbob(?) or whatever his name is...

Seriously, I think the debate raged on and on for a while... And then some guys with degrees in physics and fluid dynamics got involved and then a flame war erupted.

Didn't god say he experienced no difference between open header and w/ a good exhaust? His dyno's were pretty nice too - when he still had the R, no reports of a loss anywhere in the powerband... I'll dig up the thread if I can find it.

I'm not worried about a loss with a 3" - if I do get a loss, I just need to make more power!

 

Doesn't rs*r make some 2.5" or bigger?

 

i thought hitech and or sms was making a true 2.5 exhaust???? i am looking for one too!!!!!!

 

I too would like a 2.5" piping from my test pipe to my 5Zigen muffler. With resonator please! Whos going to make one???

 

So that is me then! I still say 3 inches doesn't help and may even hurt a little. Like YD said, it does change the powerband and moves it into the higher end. Top end could be improved a little, but the lower end will indeed suffer a little. Our little NA engines are big on torque! Unless you're drag racing NA Honda's, that little extra low end with a 2.5 will help.

Seems like I'm not the only to think so too!

 

anyone have a pic of a thermal 3''?
and how much they cost?

 

Whoa, you want a piece of me too?

Disclaimer: Listen guys, I'm just posting my own personal experience and what I've heard from others. Even Rated R has indicated that he feels like he lost a little low end from just the test pipe instead of cat install... How much, I don't know...

But I do know that the cat will definitely hinder the flow of the exhaust enough for you to run a 2.5" exhaust without any adverse effects.

Now 3"? That may move things up a little - but you can compensate with an AEM CAI...

At this point, I'm in pure conjecture. Suffice it to say the guy asked for opinions and I gave one. If it makes you feel any better, I'm going with a custom 3" with a big can and a crazy custom cat combo... (try saying that five times fast!)