i decided to turn on my air conditioning (in my '89 accord LX) because it got kinda hot the other day (in cincinnati), and i let it run for a while and it didn't seem to be doing anything at all. 5 months ago or so, i had a rebuilt engine put in my car, could that have anything to do with it? i didn't run the air conditioning for a few minutes every month throughout the winter like you're supposed to, but my friend says that's not a big deal. It worked ok last summer. is there anything i should do, like let it run for real long or something, or anything i can do to see if there's something broken, that i could maybe fix with junkyard parts? any help would be apreciated. thanx in advance.


[Modified by ajd2004, 9:02 AM 3/19/2003]

 

It probably just needs recharged. Take it to a local A/C place or just buy some cans of R134 and do it yourself. They sell a kit at autozone that comes with the hose, freon, and fittings to do it with R134. Your car uses R-12 but can use R134. It's just not as ice cold as the R-12. I used it in my 87 Accord and it worked fine...

 

Well actually there's a little more to it than that, but it's not hard. I just totally redid my a/c system about a month ago (and lets just say the only "original" part left is the evaporator...heh). You need to replace the reciever/dryer, as the old R-12 ones are not compatable with R134a, plus it's just a good idea anyways. Also, you need to check what kind of compressor you have (assuming it's still good). There's 2 different types of compressors: Keihin and Nippondenso. Nippondenso is the only one compatable with R134a (plus it's a MUCH better compressor, lol), so if you have a Keihin you'll have to replace the compressor, as well as the hoses since they had different connectors. The compressor bracket that bolts to the block must be changed too if you're changing compressor types. Since the system is open anyways, it's a good idea to replace all the o-rings with new ones, since that's probably where the old stuff leaked out anyways. Also since it's apart, it's not a bad idea to replace the expansion valve too, even if it's not bad. They have been known to plug up, especially if the system hasn't been run in a long time. It's a $20 part and easy enough to change, so you might as well do it now instead of later (having to discharge the system and recharge, etc). That will also give you a chance to clean out all the leaves and crap that you'll find in your evaporator case, which is what plugs up the drain tube, not to mention make it work more effeciently. It's a good idea to flush the system with some a/c flush to make sure everythings clean and it removes old mineral oil, but that's not completely necessary. If you install a new (or used) compressor, be sure and add 1 ounce PAG oil into the compressor suction line (the hole on top) when you install it. This will keep it from "running dry" when you first turn it on. Then get a small can of PAG oil (the compressed kind, not liquid. You add it the same way you do refridgerant), and add it when you add the refridgerant. This contains 2 ounces of oil, and 2 ounces of R134a, and it fills the system to the correct amount of oil, or just a hair over (2.70 ounces if I remember correctly). Then you MUST vacuum the system (put a vacuum pump on it) to remove all moisture before you can add the refridgerant. Either take it to a shop and have them do it, or you can ghetto vacuum like I did with a hand vacuum pump, LOL. You're supposed to vacuum up to 27 in-Hg, but I was only able to get up to 25.... still seemed to work fine though, just took longer. This is also a good time to see if the system has any leaks, by letting it sit for a few minutes under vacuum and seeing if it will hold it. Then you're ready to refill... exactly 2 cans of refridgerant is the perfect amount to put it at the proper level. Don't forget to add that can of PAG oil at this time too!

Be sure and diagnose the problem though before you go disconnecting hoses and that. Go buy a hose and a gauge so you can check the pressure to be absolutely sure it's empty. R-12 is NOT something to play around with, as if it comes into contact with your skin or any part of your body, it will be instantly frozen (including your eyes). If there's still R-12 in the system, then you'll have to take it to a shop to have that sucked out since it's illegal, and dangerous, to just let it escape out of the system. The rest you can do yourself though, just make sure it's completely empty before opening it up, and still be careful. Like Stew said, the R134a doesn't get quite as icy cold as R-12 did, but it still works fine none the less. Hell I'm not going to argue with 38 degrees F (that's what mine's blowing) on an 85-90 degree day! And that was at idle sitting in my driveway, heh. I know it sounds like alot of $$$ and work, but it's not that much. This is the 'right' way to do it, so your a/c will continue to work for a long time to come. Doing a half assed job might get it working for the time being, but more than likely it won't last long. Just get it done right and you won't have to worry about it.

I can post pictures of the different compressors and brackets if you need help figuring out which one you have....

Hope that helps some

 

Oh sure...tell him the right way to do it... J/K

This is the correct way to do it all. If you are like me and don't have a lot of dough, just refill it like I said. The dealership told me I had to replace all that stuff too. I just don't have that kind of money to put into my beater car.I just refilled it with a $30 Autozone DIY kit and it worked fine. If this is your main car, I'd put some money into it as Jared has said...

 

how much does all this stuff cost. am i looking to spend a lot if i'm gonna fix it myself?

 

Well you can get most everything at the junkyard except the reciever/dryer (MUST buy new), and the expansion valve (not a must buy new, but it's so cheap it would be stupid not to). Of course the oil and o-rings have to be bought new as well, but that's cheap stuff. Here's a breakdown of what everything cost me.... keep in mind my car was also in a wreck several years ago and needed several more parts that you probably wouldn't need (condenser, hardlines, etc). I was in no hurry with mine though so I just waited until I found a good deal on this stuff.

-used Nippondenso compressor in like new condition -- $20 off Ebay
-used condenser, all metal hard lines, and all rubber hoses (suction and discharge) to fit Nippondenso comp. -- $16 off Ebay
-compressor bracket for Nippondenso compressor (my old one was Keihin) -- $5 at junkyard
-brand new reciever/dryer from Honda -- $45
-brand new expansion valve from Autozone -- $21
-O-ring assortment from Autozone -- $1.67
-2 recharging hoses (with valve for refridgerant cans), 1 gauge, and R134a fittings -- ~$35
-(1) large bottle A/C flush -- $11
-(1) 8 ounce bottle liquid PAG oil -- $7
-(1) 4 ounce pressurized can PAG oil -- ~$4
-(2) cans R134a - $11

Total: $176.67

Whoa.... I've spent more than I thought! haha I guess cuz I didn't do it all at once it didn't seem like quite as much. I did all the work myself though, so that was the total cost for everything from hot air to coooooollldd air. I guess that is a decent chunk of change, however, when my mom owned the car several years ago she had checked into getting the a/c fixed at a shop, and they quoted her $700...HOT DAMN!! $176 is much much better, LOL. It depends too on how much you use it...for instance, here in S. Florida, a/c is almost a necessity or you'll nearly roast. Because of this I wasn't really worried about how much I had to put into it, I just wanted it working and to keep working, especially since it's my everyday driver and I drive about 45 miles total to work and back everyday (not alot of miles, but the traffic down here is horrible, especially during the winter with all the damn snowbirds and their wrecks everywhere, haha). That's the reason I wanted to do it right on mine. But if it's just a beater car you don't drive much or don't want to put much $$$ into, then just refill it like Stew said. If you do that you may want to keep a few extra cans onhand so you can refill whenever needed. It's up to you how you want to do it though

Good luck!


[Modified by 89_LXi, 1:00 AM 3/20/2003]


[Modified by 89_LXi, 1:02 AM 3/20/2003]

 

For 1989 it would be R12 not 134a

 

Yes, but good luck getting it. Even if you do find it, it is extremely expensive. You will have to do the R134a conversion...

 

could you post some of those pictures please? i might try to do some work on it this weekend if i can figure out what i'm doing.

 

Sure!

Here ya go....

This is my old POS seized up Keihin







And this is my new Nippondenso









Bracket for Keihin compressor



Bracket for Nippondenso compressor


Notice the difference between the 2 brackets: the Keihin one has 3 "legs" that stick out to bolt onto the compressor, whereas the ND has 4 "legs" for the comp. to bolt onto. If you do need to change brackets, don't forget you also need the adjuster screw (for tightening the belt tension) for the ND bracket, as the 2 have different adjustment methods.

Hope that helps