Advice on buying gsr with 100K
I have been looking for a gsr the past month with not much luck in terms of price. I have found a 95-96 (can't remember) gsr with 102,000 mi for 7,700. I don't know if its just in the north east but these cars cost a lot. Most gsr with around 80K miles are 9K and up. Is this a good price? I can spend up to like 9K but would rather have the extra money. Is 100K miles a lot for a gsr I know hondas are reliable. Any problems I should watch out for. Mechanical issues with these cars? Is it worth 2g's to have a integra with 20k fewer miles?
I'd say really be careful about who the previous owner is. If it was some grandma that drove the car to work everyday, then 100,000 mi is not a lot of wear and tear on the car. But if it was someone who dropped the clutch at every light and took it to redline, then the engine and car could be really bad at 100,000 mi. It just depends on how the car was taken care of. Thats the biggest factor I can think of.
I would say, look closely at the owner. You can tell alot about how the car was treated by looking at the owner. A car with 100k that was taken care of will always be better than a car with 60k hard miles. I got mine with 110k from a young woman, and from the look on her face during the test drive, when I got it up into vtec, it was obvious that she had never taken it up that high.
As for mechanical problems, other than the obvious problems to look for (crash damage, rust, flooded, stolen, etc...), look to see if it smokes when it first starts up when cold. Be wary if the car is immaculately cleaned, as this can hide lots of clues about the car's condition. Looking for leaks in the engine bay, and excessive deposits in the tailpipe, should allow you to quickly determine if this car is worth considering or not. If it can pass all that, then it may be worth the time to get it really checked out by a mechanic. After that, the only decision left is to buy or not to buy.
As for mechanical problems, other than the obvious problems to look for (crash damage, rust, flooded, stolen, etc...), look to see if it smokes when it first starts up when cold. Be wary if the car is immaculately cleaned, as this can hide lots of clues about the car's condition. Looking for leaks in the engine bay, and excessive deposits in the tailpipe, should allow you to quickly determine if this car is worth considering or not. If it can pass all that, then it may be worth the time to get it really checked out by a mechanic. After that, the only decision left is to buy or not to buy.
Run the vin... if it is good then get a mechanic to look at it ( unless you are competent). Also get or do a compression and leakdown test. It will tell you a lot about the state of the engine. Find out if the timing belt/water pump has been done. If you get it. Id change most every fluid just so you know they have been done and can start doing them on regular intervals.
if he is willing , do a compression test right there in front of him. Takes about 15 minutes. If he wants to sell the car bad enough, he will let you. Make sure the shifting is smooth, make sure it has a gsr engine
if he is willing , do a compression test right there in front of him. Takes about 15 minutes. If he wants to sell the car bad enough, he will let you. Make sure the shifting is smooth, make sure it has a gsr engine
the best way to tell what condition the motor is in...
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make sure all the 90K stuff has been done, and done correctly.
Timing belt,
water pump,
all the other belts,
valve adjustment,
spark plugs and wires,
cap and rotor,
good tires,
no alignment issues,
no wierd tire wear,
no salvage title,
records of the mantance done on the car,
good set of brakes
I'm done
Timing belt,
water pump,
all the other belts,
valve adjustment,
spark plugs and wires,
cap and rotor,
good tires,
no alignment issues,
no wierd tire wear,
no salvage title,
records of the mantance done on the car,
good set of brakes
I'm done
i wouldn't worry that much. i would look more towards maintenance/condition rather than how hard it was driven. Of course, if it doesn't run well and the owner says "i take it to 9000 rpm, she's good" then head for the hills. As an example, i would look at my own car (which was for sale up until recently). I am the original owner, it is a 95 with 99k. I have driven it hard. No drag racing events, but hard street driven miles. The car is rarely going the speed limit. But, check out my compression. The best ever recorded on a stock motor by NRG Tech (a shop nearby). Chalk it up to my religious maintenance program of oil changes etc. I overmaintain the car because i drive it hard. Also, look at the condition. My car is super clean and it shows. Most often then not, if the exterior has been taken care of, the internals have too.
To be honest with you though, for the $, even though $7500 is prob what i would let my car go for, if i was a BUYER, i am not sure i would look at a gsr with 100k. you are right. its a lot of $. For that $ you can get a nice hatch, or hybrid...or even start your own project. However, a hatch is never as nice as an integra...at least one that has a budget. maybe the gsr is the way to go after all. Good luck.
To be honest with you though, for the $, even though $7500 is prob what i would let my car go for, if i was a BUYER, i am not sure i would look at a gsr with 100k. you are right. its a lot of $. For that $ you can get a nice hatch, or hybrid...or even start your own project. However, a hatch is never as nice as an integra...at least one that has a budget. maybe the gsr is the way to go after all. Good luck.
if he is willing , do a compression test right there in front of him. Takes about 15 minutes. If he wants to sell the car bad enough, he will let you. Make sure the shifting is smooth, make sure it has a gsr engine
"The day someone did a comp test on my car for sale in front of me.....ummm never happen. Unless it goes to a shop or the owner does it, I don't think that would fly. "
why not? its not that complicated.
why not? its not that complicated.
one thing to add about what others have not said:
feel the gaps all around the car, look closely because you can usually tell if there are had been major accidents.
Look for different shine from the paint, which usually indicate a partial repaint
look for reweld mark/new glue.... etc
feel the gaps all around the car, look closely because you can usually tell if there are had been major accidents.
Look for different shine from the paint, which usually indicate a partial repaint
look for reweld mark/new glue.... etc
listen to how the engine starts when cold and when running.
be mindful of how the clutch feels and were the biting point is.
when driving, check if the car pulls to one side when the wheel is straight.
Also purposely go over bumps to see how the suspension handles.
Open and close the windows to check for funny sounds or improper glass movement.
Listen for knocking, squeeling or other out of the ordinary sounds in the car when driving.
check all the door sensors and lights. (i had to have electrical work done on my teg when i bought it)
you'll get a good sense of what you need to put into the car after purchasing and if the car was kept up well.
Good luck
be mindful of how the clutch feels and were the biting point is.
when driving, check if the car pulls to one side when the wheel is straight.
Also purposely go over bumps to see how the suspension handles.
Open and close the windows to check for funny sounds or improper glass movement.
Listen for knocking, squeeling or other out of the ordinary sounds in the car when driving.
check all the door sensors and lights. (i had to have electrical work done on my teg when i bought it)
you'll get a good sense of what you need to put into the car after purchasing and if the car was kept up well.
Good luck
buy a civic hatch and put a gsr motor in it. If i had 7,000 grand to spend on a car thats what I would do. the other 2,000 will get suspension and wheels.
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