Who has them in either coupe or hatch 92-95 and what they think is a better deal,
i think when all said and done they both have around $3500 price tag.
Now h22 has an as@! load more torque but you have to get then dam mounts
a couple of my buddys have crx's with b series motors with the harder mounts but i hate driving
in them because they have a horrible vibration and i dont want that at all. With the
h22 and the mounts will it have that vibration.


[Modified by DOHc SIdE, 3:37 AM 3/17/2003]

 

umm..not to be mean but whats the point of your story?

 

i was thinking of doing a swap (sorry i type like a retard)

 

hello is any body going to help me out i just want a little info
on the two motors in that car

 

umm search, no one will retype what is covered in a new topic three times a week, sorry.

Good question; bad place to ask it. I hate VS threads, they get out of hand.

 

another one of these..

b18c would be my choice if you got the $$$. But the h22 is a super nice swap.

I'm planning on doing a LS myself in a couple months.

Drew

 

thanks guys i found some posts with h22s i think im going to go with it

 

to much money go crvtec or else ls/vtec

 

check my sig... need I say more.

 

please tell me your joking

 

both are bad ***,get an h22 though.

 

h22 suck in 92-95 hatches they are nothing but problems. they best way I have herd it discribed is and h series if for a prelude with is nothing like a civic and a b series if for a civic the mount kit is the least of your problems. how about the shift linkage. you ither have to cut a hole or buy a $350.00 bracket to lower the shift linkage. they are hydralic with cables to the shift linkage is a problem in its owne. the h22 is fast and is fun but it has to be the worst ride ever. you have to get integ. prings to handle the weight. ow god it is nothing but problems. don't get an h22.

 

i saw go with the b18

 

hey playaho quit giving people usless information. if you know how to tune a suspension you can make a h22 EG handle great. as far as cutting the tunel for the shift linkage that is a price to pay for a bigger motor. i don't see how you say an h22 is going to run worse than any other swap regardless of what it is.... you get what you pay for. or what time and work you put into something. a half assed swap of any kind is going to suck and have lots of problems. but if you take your time. or take the work to someone that knows what the hell they are doing your swap will run wonderfull. know what your talking about before you tell someone what to do.... if its your opinion say "this is what i have heard" or something along these lines. don't tell people thangs that arn't true. unless you know they are. Sorry for going off and being an *** but i hate it when people try to discurage someone from doing something that not everyone else is doing. especialy when it can be done and if done correctly the benifets will outway the problems that it takes to get there....

If you know someone that can do a really good job on the h22 or you can do all the work yourself. and you plan on tuning the whole car to work with eachother. ie... suspension, motor, brakes, etc.. then go for the h22 and show some people whats up... but if you or a local shop is not qualified to do the swap, stick with a b serios because it is more strait forword and can be done by just about anyone with mechanical knolage... good luck with whatever you decide. its all about what you want. what you can do. and what kinda deals you can get on it...

 

sorry.... but you sir are a MORON, do some research before shitting from your mouth.

 

 

We don't care about what you have heard.

 

I still say get the B18C motor.

The H22A is a good swap, but if it's your first swap it won't be the best one to start with IMO. You already stated that you hate the stiff mounts on your pals B16A kits, and the H-Series mount kits will be just as harsh.

IMO the H22A swaps are way incosistent in terms of 1/4 mile times. I've seen mostly high 13's on slicks around here and in person, but I keep hearing about a few running high 12's on slicks - makes you wonder what the big difference is besides driver since some of those high 13's are in the 1.8-1.9 60 foot range.

Stock for stock the H22A will probably have a bit more grunt and will probably be quicker, but look at the other sides to it:

1. You will need to upgrade suspension if you want to retain a mild understeering car as opoosed to a plowing underseering ride. Some might disagree, but I guess that my opinion is a bit different because I love an ***-happy handling Civic.

2. There is currently more aftermarket support for the B motors.

3. The B18C can be truly plug and play - no EGR **** to worry about.

4. The B18C will look 100% factory and will not require the mount kit and shifter linkage box and/or cutting of your unibody.

5. The total cost for the H22a swap will be about the same if not more thaqn a good B18C1 swap. Add it all up for real, not just taking into account the advertised price of $1850.00 or whatever for the H22A JDM motors alone.

I have driven and ridden in a few H22A Civics and they pull nicely in the low end, but IMO they don't pull as hard as I'd expect them to.

I'm not hating, but I'm allowed to voice my opinion based on my experiences.

High 13's are attainable with a GS-R motor on slicks all day if you can drive pretty good.

 

do you want to drag race or do you want a car that handles?

 

With a GS-R you could have both.

 

QUOTE]do you want to drag race or do you want a car that handles?

With a GS-R you could have both.

[/QUOTE]

true dat!

 

Same goes for an H22 EH2 with some decent front suspension and a stiff ***.

 

Sure you can, but it will require more work.

I'm not trying to sound like an *******, but do you guys consider high 13's on slicks a "drag car" or something? Man I know I'm treading on thin ice, but really I'm just curious.

With a bolt-ons GS-R swap you could be running those same times with slicks without having as many negative effects on handling. I do not care what any of you say - the extra 80+lbs. up front will have a negative effect on handling. Yes you can try and counteract the understeer with heavier rates in the REAR and add a stiff rear bar, but you must admit it will be harder to achieve balance with an H22A swap than your average B swap.

So really I gues what I'm saying is why would you sacrifice the ease of install and handling to have a "Drag car" that runs not much if any better than a lot of B swaps?

I have thought about ditching the B16A2 in my girl's car in favor for an H22A, but honestly I am not impressed with the performance of the H22A enough to go through the extra trouble. I work at a shop and the swap would not be difficult overall, but I'm thinking a 1.8L block swap would do better in terms of performance in both the 1/4 mile and corners.

Call me a hater if you must, but I'm not at all. I don't go around spouting off ignorant bullshit like "H22A sucks they plow and will never run good..." or any of that bullshit.

I'm just using the very numbers that H22A owners post up and I cannot help but compare them to comparable B swaps.

The idea of a "big block" in her car would be sweet, but to do it right I'd never keep her current sus in there which handles great with her B16A2. The extra torque would be sweet on the street for sure, but I'm sure a nice 1.8L block would be nice too without the extra hassles and vibrations from the mount kit.

Vefore any of you tries to trash me it's my opinion and I've hnestly looked into doing it, so don't flame me because I'm not ignorant to the H22A swaps.

 

Both swaps are good. I have seen many h22a powered civics run low 13's with bol-ons on slicks. I honestly believe that alot of tuners out there are not familiar with the H22a and end up having problems with them. My Integra ran 12.3's over 3 years ago with mostly Honda OEM parts with pump( 92) gas and on slicks. I know several civics that have ran the same times with bolt-ons. I personally never had any problems with handling and my customers never complained about handling. If you plan on heading out to your local track to do some road racing then maybe the B-series would be the way to go but personally i never had to turn hard right and hard left on the streets. I spent 75% of the time driving straight!

 

You seem very much into the B18C swaps, which one in your opinion would benefit me the most: A B18C1 or a B18C5, or a B-20? I know the B18C5 is pretty pricey.
This swap would go into either a 93 hatch or a 2000 VX hatch.
I will drive the car often and want to have some kick *** power when pulling at a stop light, or passing power on the highway.
Thanks for the information.