I had my swap done about a month and a half ago, and it has been throwing a 23 code, (knock sensor) it usually comes on in or around second gear when at around 5000 to 5500rpms. My question is....What do i do to fix it? its really discouraging when it comes on cause i can't do anything about it.

by the way it goes off when the car goes off and doesn't come on right away when i start it up.

thanks for whatever tips you can give me

 

wire it up.

 

So what kind of car do you own?

What type of engine are you running?

What type of ECU are you running?

Do you even have a knock sensor on your block?

Do you even have it wired up?

Help us help you - tell us more info.

 

a 94 civic coupe

i own a 92 b16 (hmotorsonline)

p30

yes

yes we wired it into the harness with the swap

although if i remember correctly, there was a ? of one plug and its functionality.

 

check the plug to see if the wire is on the right side. the plug is a 2 wire plug, but knock sensor only has one. so it might be on the wrong side.

 

Here is the lowdown on the knock sensor. In every honda/acura that has the knock sensor the sensor is wired using shielded wire that is basically a wire inside a wire separated by plastic. The shielding is supposed to keep random radio waves from tripping the sensor. I have a 93 hatch with a B18c and p72 ecu which looks for the sensor just like yours. I noticed that what trips my knock sensor is heat, every time. In the winter (50F in AZ) it first tripped coming back from phoenix which is a half hour drive. A few weeks later after another half hour drive it tripped. Then as it warmed up out side it was happening more and more, I decided to take of the hood and I tried to trip it but it was fine, then one day it got up to 80F so with the hood on I let the car warm up in the drive way and I got like 2 miles away from my house and it tripped. I didn't use shielded wire and I’m 99% sure that is my problem and other peoples too. Shielded wire is kinda hard to find and takes more time to wire up so I skipped it. I think you should check if all is connected right reset the ECU, keep the sensor wire away from the head and the coolant lines cuz they get hot, than try driving with no hood see what happens, it has worked for me repeatedly, I made tests on my car!

 

try getting the HKS grounding system. I had a friend who put a ITR motor in his hatch and he was throwing all kinds of codes, such as knock sensor, and the HKS grounding system cleared all his other codes. The grounding system kinda looks bad ***.

 

Why not just sell off the P30 ECU and getb a re-chipped P28 and get:

More power
Higher rev limiter (for after you get cams and valvetrain to warrnt the need for the higher redline)
No speed limiter
Does NOT read for knock sensor

What do you think?

 

thanks for the replies. leadfoot78......that sounds like the most feasible answer, it was 70 here yesturday.....and the nicest it was before that was 50, and the sensor went on right away yesturday after about five minutes and still stitting in my driveway. i am going to try that hood off idea, and also check to see how the wiring looks.

as for the other posts......a new grounding system or a rechipped p28 would be great......once i get a JOB, so money is tight.

anyway- thanks everyone, i will repost once i have some results.

 

you could actually sell your p30 and get a chipped p28 for about the same amount of cash.

 

By the way Danielson, do you like your title?

 

I'm acctully in the process of sending Kenji money for a P28. Also I bypassed all my t-body and intake manifold coolant passages and drove with hood on for like 20 mins and all was good. It's the heat!

 

yeah, i was just out, light came on after second again, i will definitly get it fixed asap cause its drivin me ****** nuts.

and yes its good title, i didn't even notice it at first, haha, thanks

 

anybody else got something?

 

leadfoot knows his ****. and those wires do suck. I am getting the same cel and i could be driving normally(only bringing it to 3500 each gear) and the light will go on after a half hour. Beating on it is a different story.. 5 minutes maybe. Tomorrow i will try to get that line away from heat ..

 

I bypassed all the coolant lines from my intake manifold and that seamed to give me more time without the cel, but that still wont fix the problem. I have the Kenji p28 ecu now and I have no codes and the vtec engagement is higher which is better for my cams.

 

strange test today.. i ran the car without the knock sensor even hooked up.. no cel until after i started reving it up. now as far as i know about cels and stuff.. don't most of them trip the code right away? Just seems weird

 

i have been running with no knock sensor for about two weeks now.....still comes up after a half an hour, but NOT if i'm beatin on it

 

ah hah fixed the problem. pin wasn't pushed in all the way on D3.. much better now

 

pin in the knock? i know i need a new sensor, mine basically fell apart in my hand when i took it out, how much the run?

 

the pin in installed into the actual ecu harness(D3).. just wasn't in all the way. All that frustration for nothing heh