i ordered so far mugen front/rear strut bars, mugen 26mm rear sway and spoon rear lower tie bar. PLEASE ONLY KNOWLEDGABLE PEOPLE REPLY.
OKAY. lets say that for an experienced driver.
would you put those parts on ? or is the back too stiff ?
would i have to stiffen the front ? (ex: ITR front sway)
would i have to get maybe a smaller sway in the rear w/ stiffer front ?
or should i do both ? please respond



[Modified by whitenameseboi, 5:39 PM 3/13/2003]

 

What form of motorsports do you compete in and what do you hope to accomplish?

RJ, Please let this thread stay alive long enough so that we may figure out what he's trying to do.

He keeps posting in this forum, so he must be up to something.

EDIT:

Read his other thread.

If you are starting out in autocross, leave your car stock and learn to drive.

Learning how to drive is the hardest part of autox, not setting up the car properly.

 

Using my amazing powers of seeing the future I can see that the strut bars don't do squat on the stock suspension. Also, due to the excessive roll from the stock suspension the 26mm rear sway bar will tare away from the sub frame. After that things start to go hazy. I must rest now before I use my powers again.

 

I did that, and found this

My analysis is spot on. Unless of course i dont know **** from shinola.

you should not install any of the parts, attend an evolution school, and work on your driving skills if you want to learn how to autocross.
check the faq for link to the evolution school.

This i know 4 SURE

 

Great advice, but you might want to let these type of threads stay open so the thread starter may respond.

 

I don't even know what he drives or if he is on stock suspension or not.

I would use my powers of perception, but I used them all up on the Danica thread...

 

 

LOL!

I've learned that it's easier for people to learn when there is more than one person telling them something.

 

The zerosearch function answers all questions about suspension setup. I learned *alot* about my "new" car by searching this site.

 

Helo .RJ.

I just want to say you are doing a wonderful job of keeping the non pertinent and intellectually challenged posts to a minimum. Thanks again for all your time consuming and I am sure undeniable frustrating work!


[Modified by DB1-R81, 1:57 PM 3/13/2003]

 

BUILDING MY CAR FOR AUTOX
this is (whitenameseboi, Brian)

Please answer my ?'s as it regards to the suspension alone and not my driver experience or lack there of.

i'm building my car to handle as best as it can. in a few weeks i think i'm ordering either TEIN RA or TEIN RE coilovers for
i've ordered mugen front/rear strut, 26 mm rear sway, and lower rear tie.

someone said that the sway will tear away from the sub-frame, so that means i should upgrade to a stiffer bar in the front to reduce roll then right ?

please help- thank you . Brian

 

oops sorry i accidentally voted for "none of it!"
SORRY

 

okay lets put it this way.....
i want to build my car for auto-x what components would you say that i would need for my car to receive it's maximum handling capabilities for aut0-x....

recommendations from the experts regarding chasis, suspension, etc.. (LSD) thank you. Brian

 

Are you reading RJ's responses?

The vast majority of people in this forum will give you the same advice since you come across as a novice. There is no magical "best" setup - it depends on your driving style and how it feels to you - one person's perfect setup might feel like crap to you and not yield you the fastest times.

 

If you actually start attending autocrosses, you will see that 75% of the Honda SM or Street Prepared guys are running very similar suspension components. Copy them when you learn to drive.

If you are seriously a newbie to autocrossing and you go out there on Tein REs w/ a Mugen 26mm rear swaybar and 225+ R-compounds, your learning curve is going to be way slower than with a more forgiving set-up.

You're not going to trophy for having pretty parts.

 

[family fued voice]experts say![/family fued voice]

leave it stock and learn to drive. the best handling car in the world won't mean **** if you can't drive it. money spent on the driver will give you greater rewards then modding your car.

i'm not trying to be an ***, but that is really the best route. so many people start screwin around with the car way to early in the learning curve at great cost to actually acheiving the car+driver's potential.

in the event that you still insist on modifying the car, buy only stuff that will give you the biggest increase in time but won't bump you to a class were you have to spend mega $$$$ to be competitive. for example, your car is an excellent candidate for street touring. to be competitive in this class you really only need 3 things. 1)a good driver 2) falken azenis 3)a decent suspension. those are listed by order of greatest importance.

so first, enroll in an evolution school. second, buy some 205/50/15 azenis. third, buy whatever spring/shock combo you want. the tein's would be fine. don't waste money on strut bars or even a bigger rear bar. use your stock sway bars and the springs that come with the tein's or whatever you get. spend your first two years learning to drive what you have, then look into ways to improve the cars handling based on what _you_ the driver likes. autocross isn't so much getting the most cornering grip as it is getting a setup that you can drive at 100% immediately on every course.

nate-who doens't consider himself an expert but thinks others can learn from what little he's experienced.

edit: you drive a gs-r right? if so your front bar is already the same size as an itr bar, so no need to upgrade that.


[Modified by solo-x, 11:21 PM 3/13/2003]

 

Send it all back and sign up for an evolution school. http://www.autocross.com/evolution - the money spent there will drop your times alot faster than any bling bling performance part will.

 

I am willing to bet that all the people here that keep saying "dont touch the car, focus on the driver first" did not take that advice when starting out. (and I know you didnt RJ )
These people also forget how much it sucks to drive a car in bone stock, allseason tire'd form.

Get a fat rear swaybar and some Falken Azenis and dont touch anything after that. (or just falkens if you plan to run stock class) This will improve your enjoyment of the car and autoX immensely, make it easier to drive and will make a big difference.
Dont touch it after that, so you can in fact focus on improving as a driver.

and dont forget people, that the EVO schools are not for everyone. To many autoX is a fun pastime for a few weekends a year. $225 for one day of driving around a parking lot may be a great deal for national competitors, but for some (like me) that is entirely overpriced and not worth it.




[Modified by elgorey, 11:36 PM 3/13/2003]

 

he is strong with the force i think

 

just thought this should be mentioned again.

 

Yeah i didnt know any better when i started out. I wish someone had told me that i just sucked and it wasnt the car!

It was 2 years of autocrossing and alot of $$$ dumped into the car when i said "fuggit", sold the car, bought the black 95 i have now (which was ultimately a nicer car anyways), and started over with a Evo school and *lots* of seat time.

RJ

 

thank you all very much for passing your advice and knowledge on down to newbies such as myself. i really have learned a lot.

thanks again

-Brian VanBreemen

 

to open minds

 

Thread is locked because some people cant manage to not abuse an open poll.