i kno that obdI can run into high 14's quarter mile stock or with simple bolt ons but can obdII break into high 14's considering that its a freak car?

 

...obd2 itr's runs 14's....is that what you were looking for??

 

obdI vs obdII is pure BS.

No acurate tests have ever proved that obdI respond better to modifications, or dyno higher than obdII cars. It was all started by one of the import detuner magazines, where they did a dyno of an OBDI car with a DC header and a OBDII car with the same DC header. Then when the dynos were different they wrote a whole article about how OBDI cars are better.

What they didn't say is that all engines respond differently to modifications, so what would have been a real shock is if the gains were the same.

Sure OBDII has more sensors, but it is used to monitor and diagnose possible problems in the car, not restrict or treat A/F differently.

 

All i have to say about OBD2 and OBD1 is that when i converted my ECU to OBD1 and chipped it, it definately felt stronger, and pulled harder afterwards.

 

i have dyno results showing hp increases from going to obd2-1

 

all the haters,my car feels better with my 95 ECU,the 98+ have a revised obd2 ecu thats a bitch,I've tried more than 1 95 ECU on more than 1 teg and everyone that has felt it has agreed that ECU runs the car better.The way it was meant to run.They restricted the ECU for emissions,fact obd11 has alot more sensors=more restricted I dont care who wants to argure it,I'm not a mechanic but I know the way my car drives better with that ECU.I wish I had it back in the car but I ripped the wire harness from taking it out.I use to take it out when ever I left the car parked somewhere it wasnt safe and wound up ripping a couple wires from the adapter.And the car just doesnt feel or even sound the same.

 

the major problem with obd2 is it's harder to hack. and it retards performance for longevity FAR better than obd1... this is a trade off.

with the same programs though both would run identicle... the differences are in programing and active response not in the hardware... the extra sensors allow the computer to make more educated dicissions based on presserving the life of the motor while maintaining the best possible performance.

obd1 with the lack of these inputs does the same thing but does so in my case (93 civic ex) without so much as a knock sensor. this is not cool. sure i can run straight advanced timing that knocks at low rpm but performs better up top giving me better peak hp readings but the car runs crappy and WILL blow up eventually.

I am not familiar with the specific program differences or even the sensor input differences but there is no all encompassing obd2 is worse than obd1 or vice versus.

Your car may run faster for now but what are the costs in the longrun?
Horsepower that blows or over extends your motor is the most expensive even when it's cheap.

 

The 95 p72 I think has a knock sensor I could be wrong,but the car will last just as long with the 95 p72,and was made to run the B18C.So peoples motors arent gonna blow up if they use a 95 ECU.If they start advancing there timing and throwing in cams that are not tuned properly then there motor isnt gonna last.All I'm saying is a near stock 98+ GSR with bolt ons,I/H/E/C with this ECU will benefit a couple extra ponies,which is how the car should run instead of being held back.

 

[QUOTE]
The 95 p72 I think has a knock sensor I could be wrongQUOTE]

Thats correct! all my ecu customers have been going w/ the obd1 conversion harness and chipped p28 just because its harder to come by a chipped obd2 ecu. Also resale on the obd1 ecu's keep their value. As far as gains go, people have told me the same w/ their butt dyno. They agree that the stock obd1 (p72) on their gsr feels a little more aggressive. Truthfully i dont know why, but this is what i've been told. I really dont see how the obd1 ecu can be "stronger" than the obd p72 ecu....yes, sensors do restrict, but it cant be too noticeable on a dyno i dont think..blah, anyways, this post is going no where!

 

Well for thte ricers who do not tune their cars im sure an OBD I equiped car is better. But for all of you REAL performance people, not many around here. OBD II is better. The Computer is faster and can read the sensors faster. The sampling rate of the II computer is much more faster than I. So When you tune youre car its a whole diff story. So do whatever you want, Just know Real performance comes from Tuneing. Not obd1 converter harnesses.

 

ive always pondered about this also.. personally I dont know what truth it holds but what you said seems righteously reasonable...

 

95 GsR ecu has a more aggressive timing and different fuel maps than the 98 GsR ecu, that is why you feel the differences. Its not that the ecu is OBD2 or OBD1, its the fact that they are different programs.
Remember that every year Honda, has tried to get better emissions out of their vehicles to get them to be labled ULEV. (They did that by tweaking the ecu programs)

With the same program they will be almost the same, except the OBD2 will process faster and correct timing and fuel changes faster. And will cold idle better if your car was originally OBD2 to begin with.

 

the real reason they change to obd2 is the emissions. obd2 will compensate better. i think most importantly is where the scan tool hook up is located, all obd2 hookup is right under the steering column with the same amount of pin hook up. i hate working on some cars with obd1. i have to look on the pc to find where to hook up is........lol

 

 

Still no evidence, every response here has been about how the car "feels stronger". I am sorry, but I don't trust the butt dyno and no one else should. I could sell rebadged spark plugs with claims of HP increases and people would feel the difference.

One of its objectives is emissions, but the other two are to detect and help aid in fixing problems. How much of a difference do you think I/H/E makes in emissions? You get slightly more air, and the exhaust leaves quicker.

 

i wanna see these "more aggressive fuel maps" till then im calling bs.

 

No he's right.... the obd2 computer and hardware are far superior to obd1... the only thing that would make a obd1 feel or test better than obd2 would be different programs.

I don't know about honda's specifically but on LOTS of other import cars the difference in performance between jdm/usdm is WHOLLY accounted for by de-tuning the american ecu's. Also some american cars which are sold under different nameplates in foriegn countries have more aggresive programs because of lighter emission controls in foriegn countries.

 

Its more aggressive timing maps, fuel maps are changed at different points. You can see them but you wont understand them without the software needed to view and make changes to the maps.

You can call it BS or whatever you want. I have seen the maps and if you need your ecu tuned OBD1 or OBD2(except for OBD2v2), I can do that. No copied programs/chips, as many of those copied programs are not what they say they are.

 

Its located to the right of the radio, not under the steering column.
The hookup can give a lot of vital information from the engine, but is not really any different from OBD1 cars. As long as you can read the CEL from the ecu, there should be no difference between OBD1 and OBD2. Sometimes OBD2 is too sensitive in giving the codes that it gets annoying.

 

ya but im talking bout the harness connecter, they are all the same, you only have to change the chip instead of the harness, plus some obd1 cars have there hook ups under the hood, in the trunk or behind the ash tray. on obd2 cars it always under the steering column around there.

 

Check your 97 GsR again and than tell me where it is located.

Heres a hint: look to the right of the radio (in the back)

 

obd2 all the way here