Hey dudes, my next oil change is at 40k miles, and I should hit that by the end of this month loving the R I've searched through all the oil threads, etc and I've decided I'll give Mobile One 10w30 a try this time around. Since it will be warming up soon, should it be OK to put that kind of oil in the R? Also, since I'm switching from dino oil is there anything special I should do to rinse the old oil out? I've heard it's bad to mix dino and synthetic... Is it good to pour a couple of quarts through the engine before you fill it up?

Thanks guys

 

10w30 M1 is the best oil on the market in my oppinion.
You should be able to just switch. Nothing special needed. Make sure you check your oil level after 1,500 miles or so to make sure its not burning too much.





[Modified by jond, 5:09 PM 3/10/2003]

 

Cool, thanks

 

You should be fine.. Why not try M1 5w-30?

 

5W30 is a winter oil.
First number is the weight of the oil when cold, second number is the weight when warm. If it doesn't get that cold, you dont need as low of a number. And the lower the gab between the numbers the lower the amount of additives, and the more actual oil.

 

more additives in 5W-30 than 10w-30. Unless it's quite cold there's no need to use 5w-30.

Keep a few spare qts with you and check it in case your motor is one of the ones that likes to "misplace" mobil 1..

 

i "misplaced" almost two quarts on my way down to VIR from NYC

i have "replaced" now with castrol syntec

 

It is? It's probably the best OTC synthetic, but to claim it as "best oil on the market" is . I cannot justify the price.

What happens if he loses a quart in the first 1000 miles? Check level weekly. My R doesn't burn, leak, lose oil on street or track but I check it anyway. Takes you 30 seconds.

Also, you said Since when?! LMAO. C'mon now, 5w30 M1 may be consumed in B series powered Hondas but I'm sure many use 5w M1 in the summer all over the country. FWIW, I use 10w30 Schaeffer in both my cars, year round.


[Modified by BrewCityR, 4:40 PM 3/10/2003]

 

Eli - me and BrewcityR are ordering a few cases of Schaeffer's 10w30. Cheaper than M1 and from what I read about it, a damed good oil. Also, the low/high temps are close to that of a 5w30 and I had no problem with it, even in this ridiculous cold.

If you are interested, let me know so we can order the right amount.

Talk to brewcityR about oil, not me. I just buy it, he does the research.

 

Well, I wouldn't even say it's the best OTC Synth. But that's just me.

If I even did run synth again (very unlikely) I'd **** in my motor before running mobil 1, again though, that's just my very biased anti-mobil 1 opinion

 

LOL, my experience with M1 has been pretty bad too, Especially 5w30. And 10w30 was better, but still had a lot of 'mysteriously' missing oil. None of that with schaeffers. Not a drop missing from my last change. (at least nothing noticeable like M1)


[Modified by Chris N, 4:41 PM 3/10/2003]

 

The SuperSyn doesn't get eaten like the old Tri-Syn did, at least in my motor.

 

I would try Red Line or Motul instead.

 

Have you read this?

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=163845&page=1

 

Oil analysis' are the true indicator. Like Dave, I refuse to pay for any synthetic for either of my current cars. BPR suggests RL and Motul. I have not seen Motul specs, reviews, etc, but Redline shows good results after 2-3 drain intervals. Is it worth $7-8 USD a quart. For me, no, for others, it's up to the user. Anywho, most do an analysis after one drain interval, if the results are no good, they switch. That's not recommended. Accurate results will show up in the 3rd or 4th analysis with your new choice of oil.

Eli, check out http://www.auto-rx.com if you are concerned about an engine cleaning. With your virtually new car, I wouldn't be too concerned unless you do 15k mile dino oil intervals.

Ack, BPR, don't link that mess. See my sig and do some research.


[Modified by BrewCityR, 5:00 PM 3/10/2003]

 

M1 5w-30 "winter" oil?? On my b16a2 it says "5w-30" on the oil cap. Doesn't Honda recommend 5w-30 for the B18C5 also? I know that you can switch up grades for the winter and summer months.

Where can I purchase this Schaeffer's oil? It's synthetic? When I heard that name, I instantly thought of cheap beer..
I've heard good things about Motul.

 

Yes, definetly synthetic I really don't like M1, i'd use Castrol over it. I'm using Amsoil now, but it doesn't feel as smooth as Castrol. My .02

 

Don't bother.

Just use Castrol GTX 10W30

 

Synthetic

 

<sigh> I dont think I'm going to get into this again. For most of the questions, read the 20+ page post about oil.

For people bashing M1, do you have any oil analysis to back up your opinions? I have 4-5 showing M1 is very good. They're all posted in the great oil post if you're interested.

I guess since they stated making multi-weight oils? It wont hurt to run 5w30 all year, but why not get the added protection of 10w30 in the summer? And why subject your car to more oil starvation in the winter with a thicker oil?

Based on my research, yes it is. Better than Redline for a street driven car. But dont take my word for it. Read through here. Look at the numbers, make your own assesment. Or send some of your oil samples to the lab and let us know what you find.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/...1000&submit=Go


If you do, do a oil sample for us. Redline created 4 times more wear in my engine than mobil1 did. I'm curious if redline has a problem with high-reving engines.

You're probably right. I would like to see some oil samples of someone who used GTX and then switched to M1. See what the difference is.





[Modified by jond, 7:13 PM 3/10/2003]

 

For those making informed opinions, heres a large spreadsheet of mostly nissans, although my oil samples as well as Borr, and other honda owners are in it too. Its deffinitally worth a download if your interested in this stuff.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hreadid=100060

 

I agree, like I said above, there are many many M1 analysis' that have showed low wear numbers.

Properties of 5w30 and 10w30 Schaeffer are virtually identical.
http://www.schaefferoil.com/data/701.htm <-- 5w30
http://www.schaefferoil.com/data/703.htm <-- 10w30

 

Bought my lude with 24 miles. At 500 miles I switched to mobil 1 10w-30.

 

if i had the choice of choosing between: mobil 1, pennzoil synthetic, castrol syntec, valvoline synthetic, and quaker state synthetic- id go with mobil 1 because it is a group IV based synthetic unlike the others.

id had a problem burning mobil 1 super syn. 5w-30 at a rate of 1 quart every 2000 miles. currently im using mobil 1 super syn. 10w-30 and i havent burned any noticable amount of oil after 3000 miles.


Brewcity R, i was wondering if mixing oil weights in the same brand is a good idea. for instance, i know that mobil 1 10w-30 is on the thinner side of the 30 wt. scale. what if i was to used 3.25 quarts of 10w-30 and 1 quart of 10w-40 or 15w-50 in order to keep the mobil 1 10w-30 for thinning or burning at the track.


[Modified by ejprimo, 5:26 PM 3/10/2003]


[Modified by ejprimo, 10:07 AM 3/11/2003]

 

Agreed.... the amounts of mineral left, would not be enough to effect the synthetic. Just ensure that the engine oil is nice and warm/hot, before removing the sump plug.... this will ensure that you get maximum drainage!!