Brake pad needs changing...
Anyone know if its a easy job to change the brake pads off a 94 accord??
Squeaking is taking effect!
never done a "DIY" off the brakes before.
and also anyone know the price range off the pads so i wont get jipped ;\
thanks.
someone help!! :]
Squeaking is taking effect!
never done a "DIY" off the brakes before.
and also anyone know the price range off the pads so i wont get jipped ;\
thanks.
someone help!! :]
Loosen lugs.
Jack up car.
Remove lugs and wheel.
Remove 17mm bolt at bottom of caliper.
Swing caliper upwards.
Remove and replace pads.
Reverse order to reassemble. Repeat for other side.
Get brake pads from a dealer, don't pay more than $30~$50.
Jack up car.
Remove lugs and wheel.
Remove 17mm bolt at bottom of caliper.
Swing caliper upwards.
Remove and replace pads.
Reverse order to reassemble. Repeat for other side.
Get brake pads from a dealer, don't pay more than $30~$50.
You will also have to press the caliper pistons back into the caliper, or the new pads won't allow the caliper to swing back down onto the rotor.
DUH ME. Sorry, been a while since my last brake job.
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how about bleeding the system? isnt that necessary after a brake pad job?
If you've got old brake fluid, bleeding the system properly is about the best improvment you can make to overall braking. Almost everyone just thinks about the rotors and pads and never thinks about maintaining the fluid. I bleed my brakes every 3 or 4 months, but for the average daily driver really only needs to be done every other year (with long lasting DOT3/4).
It's a one person job with http://www.speedbleeder.com
It's a one person job with http://www.speedbleeder.com
aem pads i dont know the price,
but i got the aem big rotor kit + pads for 120 at a clearance
off Stylincompacts website,
i think that was the site.. ill post it later when i find out...
works pretty well so far, still breaking em in...
but i got the aem big rotor kit + pads for 120 at a clearance
off Stylincompacts website,
i think that was the site.. ill post it later when i find out...
works pretty well so far, still breaking em in...
i just had them installed in my 5th gen wagon last week >> they are the EXACT SAME PADS you get from Honda >> the name and everything is stamped right on the pad >> I paid 54.99 for them > they are about 5 buck more than the dealer would charge for the pads >> they do not make rear pads though for drum brakes on the 5th gens>>> if i was you i would just get the Honda pads and save the 5 bucks for the gas tank >>
Yes both pads are made by Nissin and use the same backing plate. I think however, AEM says their pad has a slightly more agressive compound than OEM.
About bleeding the brake system. Do you need a pump or anything.
I've seen in some car magazines a pump and jug to hold fluid so you can just screw a cap on and loosen the bolts on the caliper and all the brake fluid will flow out and new fluid will replace it.
Is something like that worth the money or is there an easier way or bleeding them?
I've seen in some car magazines a pump and jug to hold fluid so you can just screw a cap on and loosen the bolts on the caliper and all the brake fluid will flow out and new fluid will replace it.
Is something like that worth the money or is there an easier way or bleeding them?
4 door. i didnt know that >> all i saw when the tech installed them on my car was the name stamped on the back (nissin) you could very well be right >> they cost me 5 bucks more than the Honda pads would have >>
4 door. i didnt know that >> all i saw when the tech installed them on my car was the name stamped on the back (nissin) you could very well be right >> they cost me 5 bucks more than the Honda pads would have >>
a friend on here was not impressed with the AEM pads. AXXIS were highly recommended. and only about $30-40 more expensive than AEM (for all 4). i'd pay a little more to get better quality and life out of my brakes....
[Modified by ravyness, 5:17 PM 3/10/2003]
[Modified by ravyness, 5:17 PM 3/10/2003]
AEM pads are slightly more agressive than stock, but the same part manufacturer is used
if you are braking hard enough that the pads are not sifficent on the street then slow down, the stock brake system can handle "legal" street driving, anything else means you are not driving safely on public roadways
as far as bleeding brakes goes, we do it every weekend on the race cars, sometimes 2 or 3 times a weekend
DOT3/4 fluid needs to be changed no less than once a year but I would suggest twice a year. See brake fluid collects water through time, water lowers the boiling point of the fluid and thins it out. This can cause caliper seal damage and blow-by, it also allows the boiled part of the fluid to be taken over by air, which is the last thing you want in your brake lines
High Temp Aftermarket fluids should be changed no less than 4 times a year. These fluids collect water at a much higher rate and tend to thin out very easily.
Remebr there are a different variety of misconceptions of brakes and aftermarket upgrades. Remember that not everyone has big *** hard stopping brakes on their car, late braking in bumper to bumper traffic causes accidents.
Another falacy is the mindset that better brakes means that you can faster into a corner. False, it means you can brake later than you had, the car still has limits that the brakes do not control. Also ABS systems tend to not enjoy hard braking and aftermarket setups, as we are finding out with a couple of race cars.
my advice: flush your fluid and kepp the system in check regularly, don't buy exspensive pads for street use, they wear out faster and are more exspensive, sotck or similar to stock pads are more than sufficent for 99% of drivers on the road today.
if you are braking hard enough that the pads are not sifficent on the street then slow down, the stock brake system can handle "legal" street driving, anything else means you are not driving safely on public roadways
as far as bleeding brakes goes, we do it every weekend on the race cars, sometimes 2 or 3 times a weekend
DOT3/4 fluid needs to be changed no less than once a year but I would suggest twice a year. See brake fluid collects water through time, water lowers the boiling point of the fluid and thins it out. This can cause caliper seal damage and blow-by, it also allows the boiled part of the fluid to be taken over by air, which is the last thing you want in your brake lines
High Temp Aftermarket fluids should be changed no less than 4 times a year. These fluids collect water at a much higher rate and tend to thin out very easily.
Remebr there are a different variety of misconceptions of brakes and aftermarket upgrades. Remember that not everyone has big *** hard stopping brakes on their car, late braking in bumper to bumper traffic causes accidents.
Another falacy is the mindset that better brakes means that you can faster into a corner. False, it means you can brake later than you had, the car still has limits that the brakes do not control. Also ABS systems tend to not enjoy hard braking and aftermarket setups, as we are finding out with a couple of race cars.
my advice: flush your fluid and kepp the system in check regularly, don't buy exspensive pads for street use, they wear out faster and are more exspensive, sotck or similar to stock pads are more than sufficent for 99% of drivers on the road today.
my advice: flush your fluid and kepp the system in check regularly, don't buy exspensive pads for street use, they wear out faster and are more exspensive, sotck or similar to stock pads are more than sufficent for 99% of drivers on the road today.
I'd add that a lot of the more expensive "race" pads are not only a waste of money on the street, they can be downright dangerous. most of them are designed to operate most effectively at tempertures that you will NEVER see on the street. that means that when they are cold, you are left with very little braking power.
i work a honda dealership and its probably a good idea to get ur rotors resurface. you could probaly take it to some after market place and they will probably do it for like ten dollars a rotor. and yes you should pump the brakes after the brake job because there could be a chance that you won't have any brakes. so just to make shure do it.
Just a note on changing the brake fluid, I have a 93 Accord EX, I've never bled, changed or done anything with the brake fluid, only had to add a small amount once. I have 259,000 miles on the car, and they are the original rotors still. I think changing the fluid that often is a little overkill. Just my .02.
Just a note on changing the brake fluid, I have a 93 Accord EX, I've never bled, changed or done anything with the brake fluid, only had to add a small amount once. I have 259,000 miles on the car, and they are the original rotors still. I think changing the fluid that often is a little overkill. Just my .02.
Also, all brake fluid, besides getting dirty, will eventually absorb moisture, lowering its boiling point and effectiveness. 10 year old brake fluid? That's just unreal.
I've had my 93 since 96 it had 36,000 miles on it when I got it. And I lived in Philly for five years of it, so it wasn't a lot of highway driving either.


