I'm looking into getting wheels and tires for my Integra LS 4-door 5-speed. Before I got into autocrossing I unintentionally outclassed myself into DSP, but returning things to stock isn't an option cause modding's part of the fun in and of itself!

So anyway, I'm looking at 13" wheels to get, and need to choose between the different widths available. For a Kuhmo Ecsta V700 235/45VR13 tire, should I get an 8" or 9" wheel?

I'm looking at the Diamond Racing or Circle Racing wheels because I need cheapies. Any other suggestions?

TIA,
Ben

 

Hate to be the the one to tell you, but I doubt either of your choices of wheels in 13" sizes will clear the brakes on an Integra. There are only a few sets of wheels out there that can. Unfortunately almost all of them are expensive: Panasport 3 piece are about the best choice, but as you said they are probably out of your budget. As I know you are new, Do not get hell bent on having 13" wheels. Get some R compound for the stock or a cheap set of 15" wheels. Or better yet run what you have until you are good enough to NEED R compound tires. I know this is not what you want to hear, but You will improve MUCH more doing it this way. Do not worry about the competition when you start out, you are going to get WHIPPED regardless what you have. You need to concentrate on self improvement really for your first season. Then start comparing how you do to the others in the class.

 

there are plenty of mods to be done in stock class, as well as tuning, testing, tweaking and tuning/testing some more - this is more satisfying than throwing parts at the car, IMO.

 

If you're going to get R tires you'll need another set of rims. If you're going into DSP with an Integra you need 13" rims. I have seen Circle and Kaiser 13" rims crack and bend (no experience with Diamond). The only reliable rims that I have seen are Lenso VPD and Panasport C8.

Cheapest: Kumho 235/45/13 on a Lenso VPD 13x7.5
Expensive/Better: Hoosier 225/45/13 on a Panasport C8 13x8.5

 

You'll want them in 8.5"...

I'll second what crosser said... I'm 93.71% certain that neither one of those wheels will clear an integra's brakes. To my knowledge there are the panasport 3 pieces thy're 13x8.5 are about 270 a wheel... ouch! these wheels do rock tho. Geratol has had alot of success with a set of lenso (or somethin like that(. but I have no more info then that.

I would say 13x8.5s should only be used if you want to win on the national level. I used my stock wheels with kumhos in 2001 and cleaned house very nicely on the local scene.

Get enough practice and you can win locally on street tires... if you want some "R" tires get a cheap 15" wheel and throw some kumhos on there.. its cheaper in the long run.

Edit : My name is Matt... and... I have a spelling problem...


[Modified by Watkinsm3, 2:49 PM 3/5/2003]

 

What I'm saying is the car is already modded into the DSP class with aftermarket clutch, flywheel, radiator, etc... and I'm not going to Remove parts I've already put in.

So are my only options for wheels the Panasport and Lenso models? What if I take off my front brake calipers? Just Kidding!

It always seems that the answers provided by autocross types are prefaced by "you probably don't want to hear this, but..." In regards to where my money should be going, I plan on attending every event this season, and a school (Evolution Phase I), and running on street rubber for the first few events. There you go, I've got your seat time, graduation from street compound to R-compound, and driver education. Jumping in with both feet!

Ben

 

Oh, by the way, woo hoo! Getting responses from all the RR/AX big wigs!

Ben

 

hey mr mbuna, come out to fed ex feild the 23rd and we have a wdcr scca autocross... Dont know what regon u run in.

 

I did have some success last year with the Lenso 7.5 wheels but the Panasports will always work better. Are they absolutely necessary? I don't know. At the last local event around here I finaly beat a fellow DSP Integra who had custom 13x9 Kaisers with Hoosiers. It's one of those things that you can get away with not having but it just means you have to drive that much better.

For example the DSP 5th place Supra at nationals last year still had it's air conditioning installed. Not necessary but it could have helped.


[Modified by Geratol, 2:57 PM 3/5/2003]

 

Since you are in Fredneck...I mean Frederick I am sure I will see you at the Fed Ex events. Feel free to ask questions there. There are a buch of good SP guys that run with us there.

As for the wheels. What I have found. It is better to save up and buy the right equipment when you can than buy cheap. I would continue to save until you can afford the better wheels. You will not regret it. While you are doing that you can gain HUGE amounts of experience.

BTW, what radiator do you have? Is it an aftermarket? They are not allowed in SP. Although locally no one will say anything I am sure. Not what you wanted to hear, I know. Sorry.

 

I will be there on the 23rd

And these dates too!
March 16, 2003 Evolution School ? Phase 1,2 Petersburg, VA
March 23, 2003 SCCA Practice Event FedEx Field
March 29, 2003 Evolution School ? Phase 1,2 Virginia Beach, VA
March 30, 2003 MWCSCC Championship (TAR) TBD
April 6, 2003 MWCSCC Championship (SR) TBD
April 12-13, 2003 Evolution School ? Phase 1,2,3 Philadelphia, PA
April 27, 2003 WDCRSCCA Championship Event 1 FedEx Field
May 4, 2003 MWCSCC Championship (SESCA) TBD
May 18, 2003 WDCRSCCA Championship Event 2 FedEx Field
June 1, 2003 WDCRSCCA Championship FedEx Field
June 8, 2003 MWCSCC Championship (BMWNCC) TBD
June 22, 2003 WDCRSCCA Championship Event 3 FedEx Field
July 6, 2003 MWCSCC Championship (TARA) TBD
July 20, 2003 WDCRSCCA Championship Event 4 FedEx Field
July 27, 2003 MWCSCC Championship (ZCCNV) TBD
August 3, 2003 MWCSCC Practice (TARA) TBD
August 17, 2003 WDCRSCCA Championship Event 5 FedEx Field
September 14, 2003 MWCSCC Practice (SR) TBD
September 21, 2003 WDCRSCCA Championship Event 6 FedEx Field
September 28, 2003 MWCSCC Championship (SDAC) TBD
October 5, 2003 MWCSCC Practice (TARA) TBD
October 12, 2003 MWCSCC Championship (SCNCA) TBD
October 19, 2003 WDCRSCCA Championship Event 7 FedEx Field
November 2, 2003 MWCSCC Championship (SR) TBD
November 9, 2003 Charity Autocross (ZCCNV) TBD

That's the complete compilation of both the WDCRSCCA calendar, the MWCSCC calendar, and the nearby Evolution schools early in the season.

Ben

 

Its a Fluidyne radiator. Crazy rules... cause you know, it just boost my performance SO MUCH. Anyone says anything, I'll slap em... actually I'll just go cry.

Ben

 

I've heard DSP is pretty light down there...
yeah, I completly missed the radiator thing... I wouldn't consider that a big deal and most people (locally speaking) wouldn't say anything (unless you were really beating them). Anyways, FedEx is a great place to learn with some great drivers. DSP will be pretty tough down there... Last time I was down there I ended up running home with my tail between my legs!

Again I'll agree with crosser again (he's full of good advice!), definitly save up and do it right if you REALLY decide you want to do it. Otherwise just get some kumhos and 15s.

LS 4-door? Are the 4-doors much heavier the the 2?


[Modified by Watkinsm3, 3:08 PM 3/5/2003]

 

They are about 80 pounds heavier; no big deal. However (don't let this offend some of you geezers here, I'm just a youngin' so I get to make inane comments like this) this used to be my dad's car and I doubt it was ever revved past 4000 rpm, and it feels like even in its old age (145k miles) it still pulls nice and strong.

Ben

 

The difference in the radiator is the weight. And in racing light weight is the name of the game. If they allowed them people would put stupid small radiators in there to save weight, making it a requirement at the national level to be competitve. So it is really a means to TRY and keep costs in check. Jsut to give you a perspective on why. Somtimes there are rules that seem to make no sense, but most of the time a lot of thought was put into it.

As I said, here locally, no one will say anything, unless you start beating them REAL bad. You can not run nationally with it though. They would say something.

Don't get too bent. Just come out and have fun.

 

sounds like alot of great racers in DC area.....

STS is going to be fun!!!!

Im hesitant to go DSP next year....

would 450f 550r Ground controls and koni's even be worth it in DSP?

 

Sure it will. Its softer then I would run personally but as long as you're not bottoming out the shocks at all and there is no tire rub then you're in good shape. These rates might not be heavy enough if you run the 13 inch wheels (the tire will rub the fender). The front/rear stiffness seems close to where they should be. I think Konis/GCs are one of the best setups out there that won't cost you your first born...

 

Yeah, lots of good racers... since we lost our best lot up here (the old e-town lot) to shifter karts I plan on making a few trips down to DC this year. I definitly consider it worth the 2.5-3 hour drive down there. Courses and competition are great.

Last time I was there the course was closer to a national style course then any regional course I hade seen except maybe the Griffis Challenge Series in NY... VERY good stuff!!!!

I can't wait to get out there and drive!

 

Well since it still sorta falls under my original title and we've mentioned the topic...

If I plan on running something between 13x7.5 and 13x8.5, what do I have to do to make sure my tires don't rub my fender? This is my daily driver, so ideally I want the setup that is the best COMPROMISE between comfort and performance (bit more performance is ok tho!)

Ben
aka Guy Who Got 1000 Posts By Asking Constant, Inane Questions

 

I don't see how comfort comes into play because whatever rims you go with should only be for autocrossing.

My vote: Panasport 13x8.5

 

Obviously with the wider wheels you'll have something to this effect... These are 13x8.5s they stick out about 1.5-2 inches from the fenders.

So under compression in a turn if the outside dips low enough you're going to start shaving tires. So there are 3 ways I can see to prevent the rubbing :
1. Stiffer springs
2. taller ride height
3. tires that don't stick out past the fenders.

Option 3? nope... so I opted to make the car pretty stiff to prevent the rubbing but not be out rageously stiff. Then adjusted the height to be as low as I can be with the springs I selected.

 

Those look like spy photos Matt

The nice thing about 13s is that even with a lowered car you still have a lot of fender gap to work with.


[Modified by Geratol, 2:24 PM 3/6/2003]

 

Thanks for the photos - but guys, I realize that I shouldn't use these rims on the street. That would be way too stunnarific for me!

I was asking, what spring rate and ride height should I look at to give me the 1)Most Acceptable Daily Driving and 2) Most Competitive setup Compromise? I currently have Off-the-Shelf Koni Yellows and Eibach Pro-Kit and think it is a very nice ride if a little compromised in terms of performance.

Ben

 

OIC what you meant (re reading post). I would guess that a spring rate of 400 would be enough to keep the fenders off the tires and a good starting point for a competitive setup would be around 400f/600r.

I can't advise on ride confort because it's such a personal opinion but I'm driving 560f/672r on my daily driver. I know some people go higher on their daily driver. It's up to you on what you consider "streetable"

 

In terms of wheel choices, i will choose the C8-13 over the Kaiser's. One reason why i wouldnt choose the Kaiser is because a long time racer in my local area has had bad experiences with them and does not recommend them. And i would choose a stiffer wheel over a lighter/flimsy wheel any day. The C8's have very stiff spokes compared to many other 13" wheel designs out there.

Remember that putting 13" wheels with lower diameter tires will lower the CofG without affecting suspension geometry. Also, since the overall diameter is smaller than ur daily driver wheel/tire combo, it will provide u a nice wheel gap.