Currently at 134whp in a B16A1
Would like to have 160whp in my B16A1

Current mods, "moogen" chipped ecu, cheapo intake pipe, DC 4-2-1 headers, gutted cat, 3 chamber muffler, and a fuel pressure riser.

What's the CHEAPEST way (outside of nitrous and boost) to get 30whp?

I'm thinking Cams and cam gears will help, but what else?

The goal is to have a high 13sec car. Right now, it's a high 14sec car. Would like to do it with all motor pieces.

and some ET calculators (they are pretty accurate) suggest 30whp is all that's necessary to get a second knocked off my ET.

 

i'm a little confused by your numbers. a stock B16 should be putting out around 135 hp, that is of course in like-new condition. maybe a good tune-up would get you back some power.

Other than that, raising you compression ratio, new cams, cam gears, maybe an intake manifold, etc. would get you the extra NA power your looking for. also, replace your gutted cat with a high flow cat. the gutted cat has very poor flow even compared to stock.

 

It's a beat up motor a year of open track and autocrossing will do that.

I guess what i was looking for was, what's the cheapest route to go...?

Agreed. But, it's better than a clogged cat (which what was on there previously)

 

Well most likely it would be a few things that would get the power you want. You could raise you compression ratio to about 12:1 and maybe get a set of cams and cam gears of your choice. When choosing cams, you've got to decide whether you want to keep the stock valvetrain or upgrade that aswell. Since you don't want to spend a lot of money you could get a mild set of cams like Skunk2 Stage 1 cams. With proper tuning, it might be possible to reach your goal.


[Modified by joe_bocc, 10:35 PM 3/5/2003]

 

Gut the shiet out of your car and run some cheater slicks. Defenitly change the cat and do a tune up. You will be happy. Can't really get cheaper then that. Good Luck.

 

The cheapest and most reliable way is to raise compression. Remove your head, and have it milled .020 to .030. While you have it off, you could P&P it, but if you dont have the money just have it hot tanked to rid it of all the gunk. That also gives you a chance to install a new head gasket, as well as new gaskets for the manifolds. While in there, you can install some ITR or CTR cams, and a set of adj gears to get the timing back into spec. This should net you somewhere in the neighborhood of the mid 160s, which is exactly what I am doing (mods in sig).

-Todd

 

i will sell you 30hp from mine for just under $1k

mike

 

run the car right off the downpipe no exhaust that can possible net you 10-15hp

from there, advance your timing and run an aggressive cam and you should make another 10-15hp

this should easily last you ohh...i dunno a few days until something grenades on you

there is no cheap horsepower, only cheap people. Eventually, you will pay for it just like everyone else does

 

See the post about the guy who has just cam gears and jun stage III cams in his b16. He's putting out 164 I believe with some mild tuning.

 

Remember though, to run the JUN stage III cams, you would need the entire JUN valvetrain to get the proper liliability out of it. Thats about 2 grand without any installation or tuning.

 

jsut built and installed a b16a in a 92 hatch. stock motor, itr intake manifold, 2.5" straight pipe to apex n1 muffler, dc jdm type r exhaust manifold = 253.4whp on dynojet and hondata.

 

maybe some background info on the car would be helpful...

it's in a 90 CRX HF. it's gutted. it's also autocrossed and time trialed extensively.

The reason why i'm looking for a second off my ET was because it, in turn, would net me faster times at AutoX and time trials (although the driver could use some fine tuning as well).

 

hmmm 253? sounds fishy... got dynosheet?

 

in whut.... fifth gear!?!?!
-Bryan-

 

i reconmend full P&P...ive seen portflow make 22whp outta a stock b16 b4 with with i/e..

 

JUN III cams... installed with IHE and got over 30 whp with em... that's @ 3k in elevation as well.

 

haha. Call up Guiness, we have a world record!

 

damn sorry but thats weak. I put down 160whp and 108tq w/ my old b16 here were the mods i had
AEM cold air intake
Mugen chipped ecu
JDM itr header
custom 2.5 in exhaust no cat
and Skunk 2 intake manifold


my compression wasnt the best either couple bad valve stem seals also
150 135 155 145
might want to find another shortblock and rebuild it you should be able to break 160 if you had a decent bottom end w/ some cams also make sure you do a good tune up that will definetly help . good luck

oH and 253 my *** that bitch is turboed w/ about 10lbs of boost i bet




[Modified by turbodsmpower, 2:42 PM 3/7/2003]

 

i'm calling bullshit on this until i see proof.

 

smells like it too.

 

Thats supposed to be a 1 not a 2 right?

 

253.4 was a type-o 153.4.

 

MUCH more believable.

 

I would say cams and tuning, maybe just freshen up the motor with a rebuild while you're in there and then you don't need to worry about it being tired.

P.S. I've got a B16A in my CRX, with CAI/exhaust (high-flow 2" CRX catalytic converter), B&M FPR, ACT HD clutch and advanced timing, and what's in my sig is the time it netted me on street tires of no great quality. I'm thinking having a correctly-sized cat would knock me down another 0.1s, and then cams and tuning would take me down to 13s.


[Modified by raene, 1:43 PM 3/12/2003]

 

thinner head gasket, tune-up, cams, cam gears, VAFC, dyno tune and some nice tires would really kick your ETs down.