I want more power out of my daily driven GSR. Since I WOT redline at every opportunity (I estimate ~10-20 times depending on traffic on my daily 20min drive to work, not accounting for 10 min of warmup time) I also need the thing to be durable, as in Honda factory durable.

So I have two questions...how much power can I get out of the GSR engine with virtually no losses of durability/ reliability? This probably throws out most aftermarket moving parts and such. Oh, and I don't like the sound of aftermarket exausts, so I'd probably be restricted to an ITR exhaust.

Second question...instead of trying to make the GSR motor faster, would it be cheaper/ hp for me to just get an ITR motor?

 

just get a jrsc and leave it at 6lbs...minimal amount to keep it reliable. But if you decide you want more power, then it will add up and you'll be better off going turbo (which does not fit your parameters). However, with some skunk1's and tuning and some other parts like IM, valvetrain and ecu, you could get to the 185whp pretty easily and very reliably.

 

I would think anywhere around 170 whp would be reliable. Anything more and the car will not last as long.

 

you could upgrade to itr valvetrain instead of buying another motor.

intake/header/cat/exhaust - you could still keep reliability with these.. you could also remove power steering, a/c and other weight reductions..

In my opinion, keep what you got if all you want is just to be a little faster - you'll get bored very shortly. i went from ls to type r to almost 180whp.. and its slow again.. - well.. not that fast..

 

Anything driven that hard will break no matter what you do...

 

agreed

 

stop warming up your car. Its bad. Its been proven bad. Just start and go, dont go over 4k rpm until the engine is warm

 

huh??? proven by who? this is the first time I've heard this....

 

this is news to me. could you back up your statement with some proof? or is this an attempt at sarcasm? thanks

 

It's not good for your gas mileage more than 2-3 minutes of warmup time.

 

Do you mean it's not good for gas mileage because you use gas warming your car up? Personally, I'd spend 10 cents worth of gas to protect my motor.

 

done extensive research have you?

mike

 

A local friend of mine dyno'ed 187whp and 144tq from his GSR. Stock bottom end.

 

There is no magic # where the car gets unreliable.

Good modifications installed properly in a WELL taken care of motor with the RIGHT tuning will tell you how reliable it will be.

 

Cheap, Fast, Reliable......Pick any Two.

You could try the typical I/H/E Most of that will give a little more power with no substantial effect on durability. OR, just by an ITR.

 

I think there most be something wrong with my car... I only got to pick one, and it wasn't cheap and it wasn't reliable... d'oh.


[Modified by 94TealGSR, 1:25 PM 3/4/2003]

 

reliability and fast do not go together...you should rethink what your goals are for the car and i will be able to help you out.

 

The same thoughts were going through my mind a couple weeks ago....... Modding a motor does not neccessarily mean the reliability will be reduced. Remember, your upgrading parts to more expensive/high end parts that acura was unable to provide with the initial that price of the GS-R. - Depending on the mod though, thats another story though

For daily driven cars, low end torque is important in my opinion. I hate the fact that you have to red line the motor to go fast or pass in the highway.

Take the JRSC route, and from reading other JRSC testimonials, reliabiltiy is not an issue, unlie Turbo. The only maintenance on a JRSC would be to rebuild the blower at 100K! and adjust/replace the belt every 15-20K. - Dont take my word though, I do not have a JRSC, but I your objectives are similar to mine, and so far from reading these forums, JRSC is the best way to go.

Take a look at this link: http://www.jacksonracing.com/pages/howorksf.html - Helps shed some light on how the JRSC works.

Anyways... let us know what you decide on doing. Good luck


[Modified by majeed11, 7:16 PM 3/4/2003]

 

there was a discussion on warming your car up in MC a while ago, i think the agreement was, warm you car for 30 seconds, than drive out and keep it under 3/4K.


reason being its not good to have a fully warmed up engine and cold *** tranny, the need to warm up together for best results

 

thanks

mike

 

It all comes down to tuning... you can make a 350whp GSR reliable if you are willing to invest the money and time to tune it. Importantly, you just dont get it tuned once and call it good. The more power you are making the more often you should really check things out and make sure everything is perfect. For your GSR, do you basic I/H/C/E. If that isnt enough and you want reliable, id say put in some 2000+ spec type R cams, and adjustable cam gears, get some new stock retainers and them nitride coated, and also new oem valvesprings (at least intake and swap your intake to exhaust), get hondata or something and have it tuned. You can pull in the mid 170s with that. If that isnt enough, get the head port and polished by someone whose good (like portflow). Id stop reving your car like that also. Sure B18Cs are made to rev and last. My car sees 7.5-8k on auto-x days and made one other time a week. Reving that high wont hurt your engine unless you make a habit of it.


[Modified by DeafNgari, 7:46 PM 3/4/2003]

 

I always respond to that with the 30000+ miles of hard driving, pizza delivery, and over 100 timeslips on my 10 year old jdm b16. 0 problems, 0 oil burn (I ultimately wrecked the car, someone on this board got the engine for free). If that doesn't work, at my old job they dynoed an S2000 engine at 8500rpm WOT for 24 hours. Honda told them to expect a rocker or something to break at around 350 hours. Honda doesn't *uck around with their motors.


This is exactly what I do


There is more than one way to keep factory reliability and make a car fast (crx with b18c5, for example ). I guess I'm just wondering what the limits to that reliability are with a GSR.

I'm leaning towards the supercharger...but then the Type R is good too. I probably couldn't approach ITR power with just bolt-ons, could I? (no cams, no increased redline.... and I don't believe aftermarket moving performance parts can last nearly as long as OEM)


[Modified by Lsos, 11:07 PM 3/4/2003]

 

30k miles is not a very long time.


[Modified by B2FiNiTY, 5:16 PM 3/4/2003]

 

What about 350 hours at maximum stress conditions?