old set up
stock brake lines
OEM pads all around
generic DOT 3 brake fluid


installed today
Cobaltfriction GT Sport ( front)
Axxis Ultimates ( rear)
Goodridge Steel brake lines
Ate Super Blue brake fluid

installed everything ok, flushed the old fluid out with ATE super blue. using proper bleeding sequence ( rear right, front left, rear left, front right)
went for drive ( couple minutes)
re-bleed all the brakes again after the drive

Pads feel great...stopping power is great.
Brake pedal doesn't feel so great.
Before, with the stock setup, pressure would build up really quick, pedal only moved couple inches.

Now, pedal moves twice as much, maybe more, with very little feedback to the user.

What can I do???

 

bed your pads in

bleed again

 

lol, i have been bleedin my brakes in the wrong sequence

 

and then bleed some more.

when you are done, bleed.

repeat

 

evan must have used 20 liters of ATE last year.

I flushed out the system in my new car with just over half a bottle of ATE....

 

I too was guilty of wasteful bleeding till my buddy got me one of these...
http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog....2050&SKU=85700
I really like it, works great.

 

Here's something I learned recently. When bleeding your brakes, don't depress the pedal all the way down to the floor. You run the risk of damaging your master cylinder.

 

10 in one week when I was having brake problems.

and then 2-3 per track weekend.

 

Damn you guys go through some fluid!!!

Sound like air somewhere to me too. Might try taking a hammer and tap *lightly* on the calipers to try to jiggle any remaining air from where it's hiding.

Then bleed, bleed, bleed.....

 

speedbleeders suck

 

I believe you want to bleed the right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Start with the wheel farthest from the MC and then move closer.

I had a similar problem a couple years back and it turned out to be a bit of air trapped in the system somewhere which finally came out.

 

this is my bleeding pattern

 

helms says rear right, front left, rear left, front right

if u think about it it makes sense...start furthest away from MC

but the rear right and front left are connected
and the rear left and front right are connected...so makes sense to bleed them together.

 

Update....

This morning i went for another drive.....really hammered on the brakes this time

re-bled the brakes...it feel much better....not 100% as it was before....but very close..i'll drive for a while...and then re-bleed again

 

...any scientific explination, but many of my friends after installing SS lines (even after many bleeds) had a mushy pedal for a few days. I only know this empirically, why this happens, I'll leave to someone else. Give it a couple days, if you're able to safely stop, that is.

ps- that self-bleeding kit, ******' OWNZ.
pps- yah, speedbleeders are good/bad, some people have them weep on them, while others are perfectly happy. me personally, I don't use them.

 

I can't tell you how many times I've bled brakes and can't get pedal to feel quite right. It gets worse when I put my track pads in because the pedal has to travel further before the pads grip.

Had one S2000 guy with similar problems explain he has to go out and stomp on the brakes 4 or 5 times to get ABS to activate before each bleed. Then he has to bleed 3 or 4 times before he can get pedal to feel "right." This is what I'm going to try next.

 

10 liters!

Damn...I thought I used alot when bleeding my brakes.

I went through 3 liters until the brakes finally felt "OK".

it is a frustrating process.

aj

 

I have also heard the mushy feel is normal after lines are installed. Give it a few days and see what it's like. My brakes don't feel right until a couple hours after a bleed.

 

Ok, I'm just throwing this out there because I've been through it. Granted, these aren't Hondas, but still might be something to consider.

There is a trick on VWs and WRXes I have learned about. Turn on key to accessory position. Bleed lightly. Remove ABS fuse. Re-install fuse. Bleed again. This supposedly "cycles" the ABS system.

On my friends' two WRXes, they would not bleed correctly without the key in the accessory position. The pedal just wouldn't move until the key was on.

There may be other quirky things out there that may help you.

-Adam

 

Thats how i was taught. farthest away from the MC to the closest.

 

not on a honda! RR, LF, LR, RF

 

That is correct.

Mr. Helms won't lie.

aj

 

Yep, I always leave the Ignition energize while bleeding. Had to with my VW GTI, also have to with some GM cars (i.e. Camaro, Firebird). It might be the reason why it's close, but not quite there yet. Also if using speedbleeders, use teflon tape on the threads to avoid any air being sucked back into the caliper. It sometimes happens....

 

Now, I'm wondering if my mushy pedal is due to the speedbleeder threads leaking.

Teflon tape won't contaminate the brake system? Does it dissolve or something? Might buy some this weekend along with some more fluid for another round of bleeding.

-al

 

you dont even need speedbleeders. Another reason i hate them. A local racer showed me this trick and i've never gone back - i still use the two-man method if i have someone around though.

Car on jacks, place some vacuum t00b on the bleeder screw (make sure it fits tight) and place this into your catch can, make sure the t00b is long enough to go to the very bottom. Also, use a hose clamp to secure a l00p in the t00b just past the bleeder. Open screw, fluid will drain out. Pump pedal 5-8 times - You wont get any air back in the system, especially if the end of the t00b is submerged in fluid.