would you do Toda A cams and P & P head or Jun 3?
I am torn between these two for a long time now
I currently have a DC JDM 4-1 and Spoon N1
I plan to get Spoon Headgasket (for compression), and Cam gears and T1R b-pipe
If I do the Toda A, I wouldn't need valve springs and retainers
That money will go towards the P&P
If I do Jun 3, I would need Valve springs and retainers
When you guys give me advice, PLEASE consider reliability, ride quality, price AND emissions
THANKS IN ADVANCE...ANY comments are welcomed
btw, i did a search...the info on P&P is not too
abundant in our forum
[Modified by Type-Rare#1248, 11:02 PM 2/24/2003]
I currently have a DC JDM 4-1 and Spoon N1
I plan to get Spoon Headgasket (for compression), and Cam gears and T1R b-pipe
If I do the Toda A, I wouldn't need valve springs and retainers
That money will go towards the P&P
If I do Jun 3, I would need Valve springs and retainers
When you guys give me advice, PLEASE consider reliability, ride quality, price AND emissions
THANKS IN ADVANCE...ANY comments are welcomed
btw, i did a search...the info on P&P is not too
abundant in our forum[Modified by Type-Rare#1248, 11:02 PM 2/24/2003]
Priority:
#1: Power (doesnt matter midrange or topend)
#2: Reliability
#3: Emissions
#4: Ride quality
#5: Price
#1: Power (doesnt matter midrange or topend)
#2: Reliability
#3: Emissions
#4: Ride quality
#5: Price
Priority:
#1: Power (doesnt matter midrange or topend)
#2: Reliability
#3: Emissions
#4: Ride quality
#5: Price
#1: Power (doesnt matter midrange or topend)
#2: Reliability
#3: Emissions
#4: Ride quality
#5: Price
then sell your header and exhaust, buy an SMS full system, cause unless you add some tuning device to your list, the SMSP system will probably give just as much gain without any chance for fuggin up your motor on install....
Arno-Who finally has enough $$ and has PMed Mr. Stadulis on price for a header.
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You will be getting way more power with Jun 3s.
You will pass emissions with both cams. Both cams are very reliable.
You will pass emissions with both cams. Both cams are very reliable.
why dont you sell your ITR head for a grip buy a b16a head and have it P&P'd, casue all a ITR head is an semi P&P'd b16a they are all pr3
with the extra money have the b16a P&P'd and get some bigger cams and new valve springs to rev higher on.
with the extra money have the b16a P&P'd and get some bigger cams and new valve springs to rev higher on.
then sell your header and exhaust, buy an SMS full system, cause unless you add some tuning device to your list, the SMSP system will probably give just as much gain without any chance for fuggin up your motor on install....
You will be getting way more power with Jun 3s.
You will pass emissions with both cams. Both cams are very reliable.
You will pass emissions with both cams. Both cams are very reliable.
One of the places I consider getting my stuff is AJR...do you guys sell Jun's?
anyway do you have any warranty on your work (i understand that you guys have a good reputation on workmanship
)[Modified by Type-Rare#1248, 11:07 PM 2/24/2003]
you should look into EF-1 cams!!!! they make a variety of different specs for your app. they make damn nice power and very good midrange
you should look into EF-1 cams!!!! they make a variety of different specs for your app. they make damn nice power and very good midrange
you should look into EF-1 cams!!!! they make a variety of different specs for your app. they make damn nice power and very good midrange
hmmm never looked into that...are they reliable cuz i dont want my cams shattering on me
hmmm never looked into that...are they reliable cuz i dont want my cams shattering on me
using what?
using greddy emange or Vafc
my local dyno shop encourages emanage cuz they said it's better
using greddy emange or Vafc
my local dyno shop encourages emanage cuz they said it's better
Kind of a thread hijack here... but at Toda B's too extreme for daily driving? (Without sacrificing reliability and such, or are A's better for daily use?)
the closer to stock the cam is, the better it is for you guys and your "daily driving"
I choose not to include toda b in my choice because they don't idle too well (if tuning isn't great) and they put a lot of stress on the valve train (not too sure, but read it from import builders)...also, I have heard bad stories of timing belt snapping
Kind of a thread hijack here... but at Toda B's too extreme for daily driving? (Without sacrificing reliability and such, or are A's better for daily use?)


