How do you run the + cable? Is there a grommet inside the car that would make getting the battery cable inside fine?

 

on the passenger's side of the firewall there is a big rubber piece(on non-AC cars) that you can run the wire through),thats what i ran my positive through, and all my swap ecu wires. on AC cars, the lines run into the car there, but there is still some room to run the wires through, should still work. its a really easy location, just behind the glovebox

 

Is it the thing where the AC enters the car? I am in the process of removing my AC and freeing up weight and room under the hood so I should be as good as no-AC soon enough.

 

How do you know if you have a sealed battery or not and does it matter if your battery box is vented. I bought a vented box because it was the only kind available. But the "vents" are just 4 slits on the top that I could cover with duct tape.

 

I don't have AC, but I remember someone askingg me the same question
when I installed my amp. The gromet I used to go through was on the fire
wall down and to the left from my fuel filter.

Hope that helps.

 

Most batterys are not sealed. If your battery is seal it will most likely say it. Don't use a non-sealed inside a car unless you have the vents with hoses or whatever that go to the outside of the car cuz those fumes will kill you or something.

 

I am also about to relocate my battery to the back. Does anyone have a picture of their setup?
-kev

 

i want to do the same thing since the ac has been removed from under the hood. let me know how it goes.

 

Thats how I ran it, works perfectly. Also alittle tip, if you use 2 gauge wire, you might find it alittle hard to split into it. And you will need to hook the start and the main fuse box up at one point. I used a battery terminal clamp for it, I unbolted the clamp, put the start power wire in there and the main fuse wire in there also, then I taped it up. Works great.

If you don't understand what I mean, IM me.

[Modified by 90blackcrx, 12:34 AM 2/19/2003]


[Modified by 90blackcrx, 12:34 AM 2/19/2003]

 

yeah pics of where you put it would help me out too

 

Or instead of doing it this way you could get a distribution block (anyplace that sells car sterio equip) and put the main wire into it and then run the 2 seperate wires out, The one for the fuse box and then the one to the starter. This way you dont have to join 2 wires and one solid point either plus I would for surely recommend a fuse just a little ways off of the positive terminal on the battery (inline fuse holder same thing sterio one).

 

What kind of battery ends did you get to accomadate for the 2 gauge wire. I'm running 2 gauge wire and the only ends I could find (I bought) have a plate that bolts down on to the wire with two bolts.

How serious is this whole sealed and non-sealed deal if you have a battery box? What other kind of battery can you run instead?

EDIT:
I also bought a power distribution block from sound domain for around $8.00. It takes one 2gauge wire in and has (4)8gague outputs. I'm going to run one to my fuse box and crimp two together to my starter.




[Modified by beta13, 12:56 AM 2/19/2003]

 

Your talking about the end at the battery side correct? The connector that connects it to the battery?? If your talking about like a universal one that you strip the wire a bit and clamp it down onto the bracket then it connects to the battery that will work out just fine unless you want something that looks a little nicer then you could go with one from like a car sterio shop as well. Those are the ones I used for my Ford diesel truck (dual batteries) and all of the stock wires on it well the grounds and the lead that goes from battery to battery are all stock 2 gauge wires and those work perfect. I also have one big connector joining a 0 gauge (goes from battery to starter) a 2 gauge (from other battery) and also a 4 gauge (goes from battery to solenoid) all into one of those types of connectors your talking about only its quite a bit bigger it has 4 bolts clamping down the 3 wires and they all work great. If you want it to look better look at a sterio shop or online for one otherwise it will work perfectly fine.
As for sealed and non-sealed batteries the reason you want the sealed one is because a battery produces a very explosive gas so if its a non-sealed battery that will begin to fill the car up and if it sparks it could blow up. Also I wouldnt recommend breathing that in for a very long time either

 

I will try to get pics up tomorrow, one more thing about this topic. If you are planing on taking your car to the track, check there rules. The one over here won't let you run if you don't have the box well vented.


[Modified by 90blackcrx, 2:36 AM 2/19/2003]

 

I just installed my Optima yellowtop a couple of weeks ago. I already had 4ga. wire running from the trunk to the engine bay for my amps. I routed the wire through the grommet in the firewall. The wire is connected to the starter and then from there 8ga. wire is run up to the fuse box. I moved the wafer fuse holder, which was near the battery under the hood, to the trunk near the new battery location. I used a cheap plastic battery box just to make the install look cleaner. I'm satisfied with the install but now I have engine noise from my speakers. It's very loud and extremely annoying. I'm gonna try and move the RCAs farther away from the power wire and changing grounding points for my deck. If that doesn't help I guess i'll switch to higher quality, shielded RCAs. the ground from the battery is connected to my rear strut bar. That might also be the cause of my noise problem. *note to self*


[Modified by photonjedi808, 9:04 AM 2/19/2003]

 

I currently currently have 2 optima red-tops in the rear of the car with an 0/1 ga wire going to the engine to a splitter for the starter/fusebox. They are mounted in both of the recesses in the storage compartment in the rear with bolts and washers and the compartment/batteries were restored as 1 unit with some help from a friend. I cut two holes in the lid of the compartment so the batteries stick through the top and the lid is now an "I" shape. The reason the lid was left at all is to hide the fuse boxes. The grounding for the batteries is accomplished at the little bracket in the spare tire well. I found a nice stinger dual bolt ground terminal that works very well and cannot move. Use 2ga wire at the minimum for ground and power because starters can draw up to 100amps at crank, although I don't know if this is a normal amount or a peak.

The stereo a little oversized now and after some spring break competitions (I built the system so I gotta do something before I sell it) will be slimmed down for a roll cage install. Before anyone goes complaining about stereos being worthless and total dead weight I would like to add that every bit of my install had performance in the back of my mind as well, such as the battery to rear for more engine space, and using a paper type tube enclosure for the sub. (5cu ft of air space and I can lift it in 1 hand easily) I'll try to get some pics of the battery installation on here by tomorrow night if I can get my girlfriend's camera.

As a last note for moving the battery, I recommend you do as I say and not as I do and make a fiberglass box for a sealed battery in the spare tire well. As much as I like the 'holy ****' factor the batteries in the rear seat have with friends... having that effect with potential thieves is not a good thing. The main part of my security system brings new meaning to the term security blanket

 

I'll try to post pics of my grommet as well, Its right behind the RF shock tower and was bought from sounddomain.com for like 4 bucks, took some massaging to get it in there but perfect fit eventually, heavy duty stuff and waterproof also!

 

Battery Relocation...homemadeturbo.com style.

 

Perfect. Just what I was looking for. Thanks.
-kev

 

Anyone know what sized circuit breaker might have been used for the battery relocation on that site?


Where do you get a circuit breaker like that?

 

my local car toys sells those breaker switches. check cartoys.com

http://www.cartoys.com/cartoys/showp...TOKEN=55927003

 

I have an idea to run 2 metal bars across the back so you could mount the box on the top. I think that would be very sturdy and it wouldn't flop around at all.

 

The owner of that site is AbaZ so just shoot him a private message and ask him.

 

here`s mine . the cable runs thru a grommet right under the a/c lines there should be a couple there

 

BiggDogg can you post how it's mounted in your trunk?