Here how the story goes.
I had my car worked on as Tempest Racing in Waldorf, they have been doing all the work on my car ever since I got it, I think that might have been a big mistake. Well, they ended up doing the headgasket on my car, when everything was said and done, I come to pick the car up, and they tell me that my boost gauge isn't working, and my check engine and ABS light has come on. Well, before taking it there, none of the lights were on, and my boost gauge worked. There explination for the boost gauge not working is because the vacumm line was not staying in, it kept on poping out which is bull because it hasen't done it before. They said that when they ran the code for the check engine, the code said something like "top dead center," or something of that nature. Which they were saying that my distributor needs to be replaced along with my rotor and cap.

Well, to try to make a long story short, I charged my battery up this morning because it was dead as a door nail, after charging it, it went to start it and as usual, the fuel pump kicked in. After it stoped, I turned the key to start and all i heard was the fuel pump kicking in again and nothing else. The car did not even show the slightest signs of starting. Could anybody possibly come up with a solution? Is this possibly the distributor? or could it be something else. Please help!!!!

Greg

 

someone please help me out, someone has to know something!

 

If they had the head off then any number of things could be wrong. Most likely one I see is the timing belt could be off.

yes a bad distributor could cause the car to not start but seeing as how the car ran when you took it in and now it doesn't....well...sounds fishy to me

did the car run at all since they worked on it?

if the line for the boost guage keeps poping off then Id suspect that they have some of the vacume lines mixed up.

 

it ran from the time that i picked it up to the time that i got it too the house friday night. So when today rolled around thats what happened is what i stated above.

 

well this is surprising me that nobody on this board has any clue what my problem might be.....

 

damn, i thought i would find an answer here, i guess not

 

the cam timing is fine, the ignition timing, i have no clue. But I figured out why it wasn't starting, it was the starter cap wire, it wasen't on. Well, just to make the story even sweeter, my f**kin turbo isn't spooling and bov isn't working. All this S**t worked perfectly fine before it went in there for JUST a timing belt.

The only thing that they can say is "oh there is 900 things wrong with this car, if you want it right, you have to do it all over again"

 

It's definitely cam timing. The exhaust isn't being fully vented since the cam timing is so far off. Take it to a Honda dearlership, and have them do it. They'll more often than not do it correctly instead of taking it to a shop, who I wouldn't ever trust with something that major.

 

Im sorry, i meant it was the head gasket, i got thinking about timing and i meant head gasket, not timing belt

 

Why dont you check the code yourself and post it here so we know exactly, not what "they told you".

http://home.insightbb.com/~niedejb/refs2.html

 

i thought that it was different for the obd1....well maybe not, it seems to be the same process, but are all the codes the same for obd1 and 2?


[Modified by boostedf22, 12:29 AM 2/20/2003]

 

Codes might be different but the procedure/jumper is the same.

Just tell us the number of the flashes.

 

Alright, i shall do that when i get a second. Thanks

 

This contradicts your thread title.

 

Yeah, i know, I had to eat dinner Does this have to be done while the car is on, or is it fine when it is shut off



[Modified by boostedf22, 1:01 AM 2/20/2003]

 

If you read the instructions.....it will come.

 

The only thing that flashed was my abs light. That was short on, long off, short on, and off. The check engine light did not blink at all, it just stayed solid.

 

Did you even have a CEL showing?

Pull the 7.5 amp fuse (ecu) under the hood and drive it see if it comes back.

Then try again.


[Modified by niedejb, 7:53 PM 2/19/2003]

 

yeah, the check engine light stayed soild when the abs was flashing. I waited for about a minute after the abs flashed and that was it, the check engine stayed on. But when i took the clip off, the cel went off and the abs stayed solid

....if that makes any sense

 

 

will that mess anything up with the hondata system? or does that have no bearing on this

 

No bearing on the hondata.

Its equivelant to changing your battery.

Surely hondata isnt that inadequate.....

 

the only 7.5 ecu fuse was in the car, by the driver foot panel. needless to say, i took it out and the car ran like some dooush, the ecu fuse under the hood was a 20amp. I did the same thing with the code reading and it did the same exact thing that it did before.

 

Dont know what to tell you.

If you have a CEL, the CEL will flash with that connector jumpered out once you turn the key on.

I've never heard of anyone having this much trouble determining what CEL they have.

 

don't blame it on me, i just told ya what it did Man this sucks